Esther Serruya Weyl’s culinary journey offers a fascinating glimpse into the world of Jewish Foods, specifically how traditions evolve and blend across continents. Growing up in Belem, a Brazilian city on the Atlantic coast, Esther experienced Shabbat afternoons steeped in the rich flavors of her family’s Moroccan Jewish heritage. These were not just meals; they were vibrant celebrations of community and ancestry, centered around iconic Jewish foods like dafina and feijoada.
Esther, currently honing her skills at Blue Hill at Stone Barns, a renowned restaurant in the Hudson Valley, fondly remembers the communal Shabbat lunches at the synagogue. “We would stay [at the synagogue] because someone would always offer a big lunch for the community,” she recounts, painting a picture of tables laden with food, welcoming everyone to partake in the Jewish foods of their tradition. This sense of community extended beyond the synagogue, deeply woven into the fabric of their family life.
Following the synagogue gathering, the celebration of Jewish foods continued at home. Esther describes elaborate second lunches, often at her grandmother Esther’s house. Her grandmother, a culinary innovator, crafted a signature whole fish with coconut milk, a testament to the adaptation of Jewish foods to local Brazilian ingredients. This dish, often too grand for a home oven, would be entrusted to the local baker, highlighting the communal aspect even in home cooking. Alongside this fish centerpiece, the spread of Jewish foods included albondigas, and on other Shabbats, dafina or couscous took center stage. Almoronia, a fragrant layered dish of chicken, eggplant, and onions, spiced with nutmeg and cinnamon and subtly sweetened with honey, was another cherished element of their Jewish foods repertoire. These meals weren’t just about sustenance; they were extended family affairs, lasting until the very end of Shabbat.
Esther’s family history is intertwined with the story of a Jewish community that established itself in northern Brazil in the 1890s. Tracing their roots back to Morocco and Spain, these families sought new opportunities across the Atlantic, some drawn by the burgeoning rubber industry. Approximately 300 Jewish families embarked on this journey, determined to build new lives while preserving their heritage through Jewish foods and traditions.
Despite the initial absence of a rabbi or shochet, these families were resolute in maintaining their Jewish practices. Kosher laws were observed to the best of their ability, and Shabbat remained the cornerstone of their week. Esther explains a unique custom within her community: the recitation of four blessings over different dishes on the Shabbat table. These blessings encompassed a variety of Jewish foods – salads, fish, root vegetables, olives, and even crackers, demonstrating the flexibility and adaptability of their traditions.
It was in the kitchen that Esther’s maternal grandmother became a guardian of Moroccan Jewish foods. She regularly prepared dafina, a smoky eggplant dip known locally as fumaça, vibrant roasted pepper salad, and cojada, a comforting potato casserole. These recipes, meticulously documented in her notebook, became a legacy. Esther’s childhood memories are filled with moments spent on her grandmother’s lap as she cooked, absorbing the aromas and essence of these Jewish foods, though she only began actively learning to cook them after her grandmother’s passing.
In 2017, Esther’s desire to reconnect with her culinary heritage led her to Sandra, a woman who had cooked alongside her grandmother. Remarkably, even after two decades, Sandra vividly recalled the family recipes, bridging the gap between generations and ensuring the continuity of these cherished Jewish foods.
Driven by her newfound knowledge, Esther hosted a family meal featuring her grandmother’s recipes. The impact was profound. “My mom told me that for ages she hadn’t seen everyone reconnect in a shabbat lunch like that. Since my grandma died… we don’t eat lunch together anymore,” Esther shares. This meal, a revival of her grandmother’s Jewish foods, became a powerful catalyst, rekindling family bonds and reaffirming the central role of food in preserving cultural identity and connection. Through Esther’s dedication, these Brazilian-Moroccan Jewish foods continue to nourish not just bodies, but also the soul of her family and community.
