Exploring the World of Curry Food: A Global Culinary Journey

I was catching up at a bar with my old friend Adam, a seasoned ex-chef, and excitedly sharing our plans for creating content about global cuisine. He listened intently, then paused, a puzzled expression on his face.

“So,” he began, “how are you actually defining ‘curry’?”

I shrugged, a bit taken aback, and tossed the question right back at him. His response was thoughtful, something along the lines of ‘a stew fundamentally built upon pounded spices and aromatics.’

It’s a definition that resonates with much of the culinary world, as even Michelin Guide points out. If we use this as our benchmark, then ‘curry’ is far from a purely ‘western’ concept. Archeological evidence from the Indus Valley suggests similar spice-based cooking methods existed long before the idea of ‘the West’ even emerged.

However, much like the endlessly debated question of is a hot dog a sandwich?, getting too fixated on precise definitions can quickly lead to culinary absurdities. Suddenly, is a mole a curry? Is a Japanese curry really a curry? The term itself is an exonym; historically, people in India didn’t refer to their dishes as ‘curries’. The term was clumsily coined by Europeans to categorize a vast range of spiced stews found across diverse cultures from Afghanistan to Thailand. While the term “curry” is increasingly adopted in India today, its historical baggage remains.

Consider the Mandarin Chinese term for “Hot Dog”: “热狗包” (règǒu bāo), which literally translates to hot (热) dog (狗) bao (包). Does that mean a hot dog is a Baozi?

Absolutely not! Hot dogs are undeniably American. Try ordering “two Baozis please” from a hot dog vendor in New York City and see the reaction you get. Similarly, I believe ‘curry’ is best understood as something the people within a specific culture recognize and call a curry. In practice, these dishes often utilize ‘curry powder’ or a comparable spice blend as a foundational flavor.

Adam considered this for a moment, still somewhat unconvinced, but conceded, “…I guess that would make it pretty western.”

The British Invention of Curry Powder: The Foundation of Western Curry Food

The story of Curry Food as we often know it in the West begins with the Anglo-Indians.

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While ‘Anglo-Indian’ today often refers to people of mixed British and Indian heritage, historically, it described British individuals who lived long-term in colonial India. During centuries of British rule, especially under the East India Company, this community developed a unique cuisine. They adapted local Indian dishes to suit British palates. Khichri transformed into Kedgeree, the spicy Rasam became Mulligatawny, and Chatni evolved into Chutney. Similarly, in the Anglo-Indian culinary landscape, ‘Curry’ emerged as a distinct dish in itself. As food historian Lizzie Collingham explains in her insightful book, Curry: A Tale of Cooks and Conquerers:

British ‘curries’ in India used a basic formula: first spices, onions and garlic were ground and bound together by ghee, then this paste was added to some meat, and simmered.

However, when these ‘curries’ journeyed back to England, a crucial alteration occurred, as Collingham describes:

…in Britain a similar recipe was followed. Onions and meat were first fried in butter, then curry powder was added, followed by stock or milk, and the mixture was left to simmer. Just before serving, a dash of lemon juice was added. […] What distinguished curries in Britain from their Anglo-Indian counterparts was their reliance on curry powder.

The origin of ‘curry powder’ itself is shrouded in mystery. Most sources agree it was a British creation – or possibly an invention by Indian spice merchants catering to the British – designed to mimic the essence of an Indian masala. It seems to have emerged sometime in the 18th century.

The celebrated Madhur Jaffrey playfully imagines the origin story in An Invitation to Indian Cooking, picturing a somewhat comical, perhaps slightly clueless, British cook concocting the blend.

But from these murky beginnings, bottled curry powder spread rapidly across the globe. Wherever the British Empire extended its reach, curry powder followed, leaving behind a trail of localized adaptations of the original Anglo-Indian concept. Curry food variants began appearing everywhere from the United States to South Africa, Nigeria, Guyana, Jamaica, and beyond.

Curry in Guyana (upper left), Jamaica (upper right), South Africa (lower left), and Britain (lower right)

It was, arguably, the first truly global dish, a testament to the far-reaching influence of British colonialism and the adaptability of culinary traditions.

Curry Food Finds a Home in Guangdong: The Cantonese Connection

The earliest documented encounter with curry food in Guangdong, China, appears to be through a dish known as Country Captain. This Anglo-Indian chicken curry, for reasons that remain somewhat unclear, was particularly popular amongst travelers engaged in trade. William C. Hunter, a Kentucky native and one of the earliest Americans to reside in Guangdong, recounted in his book The Fan Kwae at Canton dining on this dish at the anchorage of Whampoa:

The local name for their business [the India-China trade] was the ‘Country Trade’ the ships were ‘Country Ships’ and the masters of them ‘Country Captains.’ Some of my readers may recall a dish which was often placed before us, when dining on board these vessels at Whampoa, viz., ‘Country Captain.’

While Hunter’s etymology might be debatable – Collingham offers several more convincing theories in her book – it’s evident that curry followed the British trade routes, traveling along with them to China.

In early Hong Kong, a neighboring territory to Guangdong, curry was initially associated with the British colonial presence and the Gurkha soldiers they employed. From there, it gradually permeated into local institutions, including the police force, where it remains a common offering in canteens even today.

“View of Whampoa Island and the Whampoa anchorage from Dane’s Island (Changzhou) in the Pearl River in Canton (Guangzhou).” Youqua, circa 1850.

However, as the 20th century progressed, curry found a new and enduring home in the Cantonese Cha Chaan Teng (茶餐廳), Hong Kong-style cafes. These establishments aimed to make previously luxurious Western food accessible and affordable for ordinary Hong Kong residents. In this process, Western dishes were adapted to Cantonese tastes and locally available, cheaper ingredients, giving rise to a unique Canto-Western fusion cuisine, as explored in this YouTube playlist.

It’s therefore not surprising that curry became a staple on Cha Chaan Teng menus. What is somewhat unexpected, however, is that these Cantonese curries seem to have borrowed influences from Singapore, Hong Kong’s sister colony. Spices are often used in paste form, aromatics like shallots and lemongrass are frequently found in curry bases, and many are finished with either evaporated milk or coconut milk, adding a rich, creamy texture.

Recipe: Hong Kong Chicken Curry (咖喱鸡) – A Cha Chaan Teng Classic

This Hong Kong Chicken Curry recipe captures the essence of Cha Chaan Teng curry, blending Western and Cantonese culinary sensibilities.

Ingredients:

• Chicken, ~300g. Cut into ~1.5 inch chunks. We used a combination of two deboned thighs and one full wing, cleaved up.
• Potatoes, preferably fingerling, 250g. Sliced in half, then cut into ~1.5 inch chunks via the Chinese rolling cut.
• Salt, 1/2 tbsp. To boil the potatoes.

To marinate the chicken:

• For the marinade:
  • Salt, 1/4 tsp
  • Sugar, 1/4 tsp
  • Chicken bouillon powder (鸡精), 1/4 tsp
  • Curry powder (咖喱粉), 1/2 tsp
  • Soy sauce (生抽), 1/4 tsp
  • Liaojiu a.k.a. Shaoxing wine (料酒/绍酒), 1/2 tsp
  • Cornstarch (生粉), 1 tsp
• Onion, ~1/4. Cut into chunks.
• Ginger, ~1 inch. Smashed.
• Optional: dried bay leaf (香叶), 1. If you have it around.
• Peanut oil, ~1 tbsp. To coat.

For the curry base:

• Onion, ~3/4. Finely, finely minced.
• Garlic, 3 cloves. Finely, finely minced.
• Hong Kong Curry Paste (咖喱胆), 2 tbsp. This is what we used in the video. If you can’t find it, a Singaporean/Malaysian style curry paste like this could also be used, or perhaps in a pinch a good Thai Yellow Curry paste. You can also make it yourself – we have a recipe in an old video.
• Curry powder (咖喱粉), 1 tsp.
• Water, 1 cup.
• Chicken bouillon powder (鸡精), 1/2 tsp.
• Mashed potato. ~1 chunk worth from the above potatoes.

For the stir fry:

• Liaojiu a.k.a. Shaoxing wine (料酒/绍酒), 1 tbsp
• Curry base from above.
• Soy sauce (生抽), 1 tsp
• Water, 1 cup
• Seasoning:
  • Salt, 1/4 tsp
  • Chicken bouillon powder (鸡精), 1/4 tsp
  • MSG (味精), 1/4 tsp
  • Sugar, 1 tsp
• Evaporated milk (淡奶), 1.5 tbsp
• Coconut milk (椰奶), 0.5 tbsp. You can alternatively finish with 2 tbsp of evaporated milk or coconut milk if you don’t happen to have both already on hand.

Process:

1. Prepare the chicken and mix it with the ingredients listed under “to marinate the chicken”. Marinate for at least 30 minutes, or up to overnight.
2. Slice the potatoes, then boil them in water salted with 1/2 tbsp salt. Boil for ~10 minutes until soft. Reserve, mashing one of the potato chunks up for the curry base.
3. In a pot, fry the minced onion in with ~1.5 tbsp of oil over a medium flame. Once slightly softened, ~3 minutes, add in the minced garlic and fry until fragrant. Add the curry paste and curry powder, and fry until those are fragrant as well, ~30 seconds. Add the water, the chicken bouillon powder, and the mashed potato. Boil uncovered until the water has evaporated and everything as bubbled down into a gloopy paste, ~40 minutes. Reserve.
4. To stir fry, first longyau: get your wok piping hot, shut off the heat, add in ~1.5 tbsp of oil, and swirl to get a non-stick surface. Over a high flame, add in the chicken together with the marinade. Spread it evenly across the wok, then stir fry for ~90 seconds, or until cooked. Swirl in the wine, mix, then add the curry base. Mix again and swirl in the soy sauce. Add the water, and swap the flame to medium.
5. Boil the curry for ~10 minutes, then add the potatoes. Boil for another 5 minutes.
6. If the curry is not quite thick to your liking, you can reduce on high for 1-2 minutes. Finish with the seasoning, the evaporated milk, and the coconut milk.
7. Serve with rice.

Japanese Curry Food: From Naval Rations to Home Cooking Staple

Curry likely first arrived in Japan during the Meiji era (late 19th century) via British traders in Yokohama. However, some historians suggest it may have been introduced through foreigners employed in Hokkaido. Regardless of the precise route, early Japanese curry recipes all incorporated flour – alongside curry powder – as a thickening agent for the stew.

This approach is evident in what is considered the first Japanese-language curry recipe, published in “A Guide to Western Cooking“:

The method of making curry is to take one stalk of green onion, half a piece of ginger, a little bit of garlic, and finely ground them. Boil them in one large spoonful of cow milk, then add one and a half cups of water. Add chicken, shrimp, sea bream, clams, frogs, etc., and boil well.

After that, add one small spoonful of curry powder and boil for one hour. When it is fully cooked, add salt. Also, dissolve two tablespoons of flour in the water and mix well.

This method clearly draws inspiration from British curry-making techniques, where roux – a mixture of fat and flour – was historically used to thicken curries. While flour is less common in contemporary British home cooking, it remains a key ingredient in the thick, chip shop-style curry sauces popular in the UK. In the Meiji era, a common Japanese technique involved toasting flour, mixing it with curry powder, and then gradually incorporating stock to create a curry base. The image below provides a visual of a homemade curry roux, although this particular example uses oil to bind the flour before adding the spice.

Post-World War II, however, this more elaborate process was streamlined with the advent of pre-packaged, ready-made instant curry roux blocks. First developed by the Oriental company in 1945, the most famous brand today is S&B and their ubiquitous “Golden Curry.”

These roux blocks revolutionized home cooking in Japan due to their convenience and delicious results. Preparing Japanese curry became incredibly simple – often requiring little more than following the instructions on the box for a satisfying meal.

However, as a cooking-focused channel, we aim to offer something a bit more detailed than “just follow the box.” So, we present a recipe inspired by a significant chapter in Japanese curry history.

Recipe: Japanese ‘Naval Curry’-Inspired Curry (海軍カレー, -ish) – A Taste of History

One of the fascinating stories surrounding Japanese curry is its adoption as a standard ration in the Imperial Japanese Navy around the turn of the 20th century. This intriguing history is well-documented in this article from Atlas Obscura. In short, curry was found to help combat Beriberi (thiamine deficiency), although introducing curry to naval vessels wasn’t without its challenges.

This naval adoption led to the emergence of a distinct style of curry known as “Navy Curry” (海軍カレー, Kaigun Kare) or “Yokosuka Navy Curry” (よこすか海軍カレー, Yokosuka Kaigun Kare). And in true Japanese fashion, Yokosuka Navy Curry even has its own mascot:

Don’t be fooled by their adorable demeanor…

One of the joys of exploring Japanese cuisine within the context of ‘Western food in Asia’ is the wealth of available information. The history is readily researchable, and recipes are easily accessible. Despite our limited Japanese language skills (though Steph can decipher some due to her knowledge of Chinese characters/Kanji and some university study), finding reliable sources isn’t overly difficult.

Remarkably, the Japanese Ministry of Defense even provides a collection of curry recipes on their website, making our research significantly easier. For this recipe, we drew inspiration from these official recipes and cross-referenced them with resources like [this YouTube video](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=your_youtube_video_link_here – placeholder, please insert actual link).

Our goal was to create a recipe that captures the spirit of Yokosuka Naval Curry while incorporating the convenience of boxed curry roux, a modern Japanese kitchen staple. The following recipe is a blend of traditional naval curry elements adapted for home cooking.

Ingredients:

• Beef Brisket, 175g. Cut into ~1 inch chunks.
• Carrot, 75g. Halved, then cut into ~1/2 cm slices.
• Potatoes, preferably fingerling, 100g. Quartered, then cut into ~1cm chunks.

For the onion base:

• Onion, 1/2. Finely finely sliced.
• Salt, 1/4 tsp.
• Oil, 1 tbsp.
• Water, 1 cup.

For the curry:

• Butter, 2 tbsp. For frying.
• Garlic, 2 cloves. Grated (or pounded).
• Ginger, ~1 cm. Grated (or pounded).
• Onion base from above.
• Ketchup, 1 tbsp.
• Worcestershire sauce, 1 tsp.
• Water, 2 cups.
• Chicken bouillon powder, 1/2 tsp.
• Optional: the juice from Japanese Fukujinzuke pickles, 1 tbsp
• Apple, 20g. Grated.
• Curry roux, 2 chunks. Or a half pack.
• Seasoning:
  • Salt, 1/4 tsp
  • MSG, 1/4 tsp
  • Sugar, 1/2 tsp
• Butter, 1/2 tbsp. For finishing

For the curry oil:

• Oil, 1 tbsp
• Curry powder, 1/2 tbsp.

Process:

1. Prepare the beef, carrot, and potato and set aside. Thinly (keyword: THINLY) slice the onion.
2. To make the onion base, add the onion, salt, and oil to a non-stick pan. Over medium-low heat, fry until softened, ~5 minutes. Add 1 cup of water. Cook over medium heat until the water reduces and the onion is very soft, almost disintegrating, ~15-20 minutes. Reserve.
3. To make the curry, fry the beef in butter over medium-high heat until browned, 2-3 minutes. Add carrot and fry for ~1 minute. Add potatoes and fry for ~1 minute. Add grated garlic and ginger and fry until fragrant, ~30 seconds. Add the onion base, ketchup, and Worcestershire sauce; briefly fry together.
4. Add water, chicken bouillon powder, grated apple, and optional pickle juice. Cook until beef is tender, 30-40 minutes.
5. Add curry roux, letting it melt and thicken the curry. Once thickened to your liking, add seasoning. Finish with butter and curry oil.
6. To make curry oil, heat oil until barely bubbling around chopsticks, ~120°C. Add curry powder and mix, being careful not to burn the powder.

To serve:

For the full naval ration experience, serve the curry with rice, Fukujinzuke pickles, a side salad (we used a boxed Japanese-style salad from Kewpie in the video), and a juice box of milk.

Thai Curry Food: Beyond Green and Red – Exploring “Kaeng Kari” and More

Much of what Westerners consider “Thai curry” isn’t technically “curry” in Thai cuisine; it’s Kaeng (แกง).

• Green curry? Kaeng Khiao Wan (แกงเขียวหวาน)
• Red curry? Kaeng Phet (แกงเผ็ด)
• Massaman curry? Kaeng Matsaman (แกงมัสมั่น).

“So what’s the difference?” you might ask. “Isn’t ‘Curry’ simply the English translation of ‘Kaeng’, just like ‘Stir Fry’ translates ‘Chao’?”

That’s a fair point; “curry” is the common translation, and it’s often easier to go with the flow. However, I argue that we can’t accurately categorize all Kaeng as ‘Curry’, even using the broad definition provided by Michelin and my chef friend Adam.

Consider Kaeng Jeut (แกงจืด), or ‘Plain’ Kaeng:

If we were starting fresh, I’d lean towards translating kaeng as ‘soup’. Etymologically, the word shares roots with the Chinese character “羹” (gēng). In Middle Chinese, this was pronounced… drumroll… ‘kaeng’. In modern Cantonese, it’s ‘gang’ (Mandarin, ‘geng’), and it’s almost universally translated as soup:

(The infamous) “Shark Fin Soup” is “Jyuci Gang” (鱼翅羹) in Cantonese.

The disconnect between Kaeng and ‘curry’ becomes even clearer when we examine “Yellow Curry.” In Thai, it’s called Kaeng Kari (แกงกะหรี่), or sometimes Kaeng Kari Thai. This dish originates from Southern Thailand and is frequently associated with the Muslim Thai cuisine of that region.

And, perhaps predictably, Kaeng Kari utilizes Phong Kari – curry powder – as a base flavor. This dish, Kaeng Kari, is what I would genuinely classify as a ‘Thai Curry’ in the context of “curry food”.

But unlike curry food in Hong Kong and Japan, Kaeng Kari is definitively not categorized as ‘Western food’ in Thailand. Furthermore, there are many individuals more qualified to discuss this dish than we are.

Instead, we want to explore another curry powder-based Thai dish: “Curry Powder Fried Seafood” (ทะเลผัดผงกะหรี่, Talay Pad Phong Karee). This dish is believed to be descended from “Curry Powder Fried Crab,” itself a riff on Singaporean Crab Curry – a dish potentially linked to Goan Portuguese Caril de caranguejo.

It’s a culinary journey with a few stretches, admittedly. And “Curry Powder Fried Seafood” is still not considered ‘Western food’ in Thailand; it’s firmly regarded as Thai, or perhaps Thai-Chinese if you push the categorization. We’re featuring this dish primarily because it offers arguably the quickest and most accessible path to a ‘curry food’ experience.

Recipe: Thai Curry Powder Fried Seafood (ทะเลผัดผงกะหรี่) – A Quick Curry Fix

This Thai Curry Powder Fried Seafood recipe delivers a fast and flavorful curry experience, distinct from traditional Thai Kaeng.

Ingredients:

• Squid, ~2 small.
• Shrimp, 5-6 medium.
• Marinade for the Shrimp:
  • Salt, 1/4 tsp
  • White pepper, 1/4 tsp
  • Cornstarch, 1/2 tsp

To make the sauce:

• Evaporated milk, 50mL
• Water, 50mL
• Nam Phrik Phao (น้ำพริกเผา), Thai chili jam, 1.5 tbsp. This stuff, should be pretty available internationally.
• Egg, 1
• Oyster sauce, 3/4 tsp
• Salt, 1/8 tsp
• Chicken bouillon, 1/4 tsp
• Shaoxing wine, 1/4 tsp. Optional.
• Fish sauce, 1/4 tsp
• Sugar, 1/2 tsp

For the Stir Fry:

• Chinese celery, 1 stalk. Chopped into ~1.5 inch sections. You can also use the leafy tops of western celery.
• Scallion, 1 sprig. Chopped into ~2 inch sections.
• Onion, ~1/8. Cut into chunks.
• Spicy red chili, 1-2 chilis. Sliced.
• Curry Powder, 1/2 tbsp.
• Sauce from above.
• Fish sauce, to taste. Add in a little more fish sauce if it’s not salty enough.

Process:

1. Prepare the squid: clean, then remove the bone. Cut into ~2 inch squares, then slice little groves ~2mm apart in a checkerboard pattern.
2. Peel and butterfly the shrimp; remove the vein. Rinse, then marinate with the ‘marinade for the shrimp’.
3. Mix the sauce ingredients together.
4. In a wok over high heat, add ~1/4 cup of oil. Heat until bubbles rapidly form around chopsticks (~160°C). Add shrimp and fry until cooked, 30-60 seconds. Remove and set aside.
5. Pour off all but 1.5 tbsp of oil. Return wok to high heat. Add squid and briefly fry for ~15 seconds with the just-cooked shrimp. Add celery, scallion, onion, and chili; stir-fry for ~30 seconds. Reduce heat to medium, add curry powder and the prepared sauce. Allow to come together and thicken, ~90 seconds.
6. Season with additional fish sauce to taste, if needed.

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