Image alt text: Award-winning chef Naomi Pomeroy posing in her restaurant, showcasing her culinary expertise and passion.
Pomeroy’s culinary journey is far from conventional. Unlike many chefs who found their calling early in life, Naomi’s path began with a spontaneous decision at the age of 17. Recruited by a friend to cook at an Outward Bound base camp, despite having no prior experience, she discovered a profound love for cooking. This unexpected start ignited a career that has seen her rise to become one of Portland’s most celebrated chefs, earning the prestigious title of Food & Wine Best New Chef in 2012.
Her signature dish, braised and grilled octopus, perfectly encapsulates her approach to cooking. It’s a testament to her willingness to tackle culinary challenges head-on. As she admits, her first attempt at octopus was “terrible,” but through perseverance, research, and practice, she transformed it into a menu staple. The octopus, dressed with sherry vinaigrette and pimentón, served over a seasonal salad, highlights her commitment to seasonal ingredients and balanced flavors. This dedication to perfecting a dish, even through initial failures, mirrors the dedication required to master any culinary art, from classic French techniques to regional specialties like tinga food.
Image alt text: Close-up of Naomi Pomeroy’s famous grilled octopus dish, highlighting its vibrant colors and textures.
When it comes to ingredients and techniques that currently captivate her, Pomeroy expresses fascination with cured egg yolks. Her method of burying egg yolks in salt and sugar to create a “wonderful custard texture” showcases her innovative approach and interest in transforming simple ingredients. Serving these cured yolks with prosciutto and Pecorino over pasta, reminiscent of carbonara, demonstrates her ability to draw inspiration from classic dishes while adding her unique twist. This playful experimentation is a hallmark of chefs who constantly seek to innovate and explore new flavor profiles, much like those who experiment with different variations of tinga recipes.
Even a celebrated chef like Naomi Pomeroy appreciates the convenience of quality store-bought ingredients. Canned beans are a pantry staple for her, recognizing them as a “really good fast meal” that provides both protein and fiber. This practicality reflects a grounded approach to cooking, acknowledging the need for quick, healthy meals even amidst a demanding culinary career.
A peek into Naomi’s refrigerator reveals her penchant for hot sauce, particularly Portland Pepper Sauce Company’s and Frank’s RedHot. Her homemade pickled red Fresno chiles further emphasize her love for spice and bold flavors. This affinity for heat is a common thread in many global cuisines, including Mexican food, where tinga dishes often boast a smoky and spicy profile.
For a snack, Pomeroy opts for a simple yet satisfying spoonful of almond butter with sea salt. However, her sweet tooth is indulged by artisan chocolate, especially Jcoco’s Veracruz Orange white chocolate with chile. This unexpected favorite, white chocolate with orange and chile, reveals her adventurous palate and appreciation for complex flavor combinations, hinting at a potential openness to the diverse and sometimes surprising flavors found in tinga food.
While Naomi doesn’t have food dislikes in the traditional sense, she draws a line at items that are “not food” in their essence. Her anecdote about unpleasantly chewy yakitori intestine illustrates her aversion to dishes where edibility seems to be the sole justification. This discerning palate prioritizes quality and enjoyment over mere novelty, a principle that applies to appreciating well-crafted dishes across all cuisines, including authentic tinga.
Pomeroy’s cookbook collection offers a glimpse into her culinary influences. The River Cottage Preserves books resonate with her seasonal cooking approach, while Pulpo inspires her with its beauty and enticing recipes. Marc Vetri’s Rustic Italian Food and the Canal House Cooks’ works further highlight her appreciation for foundational techniques and comforting, flavorful food. These diverse culinary texts suggest a broad range of influences that contribute to her unique cooking style, a style that, while rooted in classic techniques, might find common ground with the rich and flavorful traditions behind dishes like tinga food.
A cherished souvenir, a wooden truffle shaver from Alba, Italy, speaks to her appreciation for quality tools and culinary experiences. This treasured item symbolizes her commitment to excellence and the memories she gathers through food and travel.
Her pre- and post-shift ritual – a simple bourbon – reveals a touch of well-deserved indulgence in the demanding restaurant world.
Naomi Pomeroy’s journey from a novice cook to an award-winning chef is a testament to passion, perseverance, and a deep love for food. While her culinary focus may be rooted in Pacific Northwest flavors and classic techniques, her open-mindedness, adventurous palate, and dedication to quality suggest an appreciation for the diverse world of food, potentially even extending to the rich and flavorful tradition of tinga food. Exploring the culinary world through the lens of chefs like Naomi Pomeroy allows us to appreciate the universal values of dedication, innovation, and passion that underpin all great cuisines.
