Street stall - Guide to Nepalese Food
Street stall - Guide to Nepalese Food

Discovering the Delights of Nepalese Food: A Culinary Journey

Nepalese Food often flies under the radar in the Western world. However, it is a cornerstone of Nepali culture, offering a unique and flavorful culinary experience. This guide will take you on a journey to explore the wonders of Nepalese cuisine and kickstart your foodie adventures.

Have you ever paused to consider your favorite Nepalese dish? If you’re like many, you might draw a blank. Often overshadowed by its larger neighbor, India, Nepalese food remains largely undiscovered by the global palate. Until recently, I too was in this camp, mistakenly assuming it was simply a variation of Indian cuisine. But as I soon learned, Nepalese food is a distinct entity, drawing influences from Tibet, Southeast Asia, and most importantly, from the rich culinary traditions within Nepal itself.

My exploration revealed a world of unique flavors, including what I believe to be one of the planet’s best street foods. Why Nepalese cuisine isn’t more widely celebrated is a mystery to me, but it’s a culinary treasure waiting to be discovered.

Unveiling the Story Behind Nepalese Cuisine

Geography and a touch of history are key to understanding Nepalese food. Nepal’s landscape is dominated by the Himalayas, a majestic mountain range stretching over 2,400km. These mountains, including giants like K2, Lhotse, Manaslu, and Mount Everest, act as a formidable border between Nepal and Tibet (now China).

On the Tibetan Plateau, salt was historically a precious commodity. Even today, “Himalayan Salt” is a common sight in supermarkets. Meanwhile, on the Nepalese side, the fertile Terai plains yield abundant rice, providing a gateway to India. These geographical factors fostered trade routes through mountain passes, leading to centuries of cultural, religious, and culinary exchange.

Another significant aspect of Nepal’s history is its isolation. Until the late 1940s, Nepal largely closed its borders to international travelers. The aftermath of WWII, India’s move towards independence, and the communist revolution in China prompted Nepal to reconsider its isolationist policies.

While closed borders limited tourism, they inadvertently protected traditional Nepalese food from foreign influences. Although Western food is available in cities like Kathmandu and Pokhara, it’s not pervasive. Traditional Nepali cuisine remains the staple for most of the population, a testament to its enduring appeal.

During my two weeks in Nepal, I explored Kathmandu, the beautiful lakeside city of Pokhara (the gateway to the Himalayas), and immersed myself in the culture of the Gurung people in the Kaski district, even venturing on a memorable hike in the Himalayas.

Unlike many trips, I hadn’t pre-planned a food itinerary for Nepal. Yet, food became one of the most captivating aspects of my journey, revealing a culinary world that the West is largely missing out on. To bridge this gap, I present five Nepalese dishes (and some drinks) that I encourage you to try, whether at a local Nepalese restaurant or during a trip to Nepal itself!

Must-Try Nepalese Dishes: A Flavorful Exploration

Samosa Chaat: A Street Food Sensation

Within hours of arriving in Kathmandu, I found myself navigating its bustling streets in search of lunch. “Manic” barely describes the sensory overload – the dust, the symphony of sounds, and the mix of enticing and pungent aromas. Seeking refuge from the heat and dust, I was drawn to a street vendor serving vibrant plates of samosa chaat.

Samosas, fried wheat flour pyramids often filled with potatoes and vegetables, are common in Indian restaurants. The term “chaat,” as explained by a Nepali friend, translates to “a little bit of everything,” which perfectly describes this dish.

Samosa chaat features a yogurt-based sauce loaded with chickpeas, ginger, coriander, chili, and a medley of other ingredients. Broken samosas are stirred into this flavorful mixture, creating a delightful combination of textures and tastes. This incredibly satisfying meal, a true street food gem, costs less than a dollar! Despite initial worries about adapting to Nepalese food so quickly before a hike, my stomach was perfectly happy, and the trek went smoothly!

Dal Bhat Tarkari: Nepal’s National Dish

No trip to Nepal is complete without experiencing dal bhat tarkari. You’ll likely encounter this dish numerous times within your first few days in the country. This is Nepalese home cooking at its finest, a staple eaten daily across Nepal.

Dal bhat tarkari is a balanced and flavorful set meal. Rice (bhat) is placed in the center of the plate, surrounded by lentil soup (dal), vegetable curry (tarkari), and other accompaniments like pickled vegetables, meat curry, yogurt sauce, and spicy achaar sauce. You can mix everything together like a local, using your right hand, or enjoy each component separately with a fork. Either way, you’re in for a treat.

For an exceptional dal bhat experience, seek out the Thakali version. The Thakali people, from the region between the lowlands and highlands, are renowned for their culinary skills. They expertly combine ingredients from across Nepal to create a truly refined dal bhat tarkari.

Dal bhat is not only iconic and delicious but also the perfect fuel for trekkers. You’ll often see t-shirts in Nepal proudly declaring “Dal-bhat power, 24 hour!!” And the best part? Dal bhat tarkari is incredibly affordable and often comes with unlimited refills! Waiters will generously offer more rice, dal, and tarkari until you are completely satisfied.

My most memorable dal bhat experience was in Panauti, a town east of Kathmandu. Our tour group enjoyed lunch with local families as part of the fantastic Community Homestay program. The dal bhat was simple yet incredibly special, made with fresh ingredients and served with immense pride and talent by our host.

Gurung Bread: A Himalayan Breakfast Delight

One highlight of hiking the Ghandruk Loop was witnessing the daily life of the Gurung community. On our final morning, I ordered Gurung bread, and instantly regretted not trying it sooner.

Also known as Tibetan flatbread, Gurung bread is a lightly fried pocket of dough. For me, it evoked memories of Hong Kong’s street food scene, pairing perfectly with a hot omelet instead of congee. The satisfying and slightly addictive flavor left me wishing I had discovered it earlier in my trip.

Sel Roti: Sweet and Savory Doughnuts

When it comes to fried dough, it’s hard to go wrong. Sel roti, however, offers a unique twist. Made with rice flour instead of wheat, it has a firmer, chewier texture and a more savory flavor profile than Western doughnuts. A dusting of icing sugar can easily satisfy a sweet craving, though.

Sel roti is often prepared in large batches and can be stored for weeks, but it’s best enjoyed fresh and warm. These inexpensive treats are perfect for a quick snack or breakfast on the go as you explore Kathmandu’s streets.

Mo:Mo: Nepal’s Beloved Dumplings

One of the biggest draws of travel is experiencing culture shock – that mix of exhilaration and slight disorientation that comes with immersing yourself in a new environment. Mo:Mo, Nepal’s version of dumplings, delivered just that.

Dumplings are a global favorite, with variations found in many cultures, from China’s baozi to Poland’s pierogi. Each country adds its unique touch, from the dough to the filling and folding techniques. Exploring these variations is part of the culinary adventure.

Finding authentic Mo:Mo venues in Kathmandu can be an adventure in itself. Street addresses are often vague. My quest involved deciphering cryptic directions like “next to…” or “across from…” and relying on Google Maps and local tips. My initial Mo:Mo hunts were unsuccessful, leading me through Kathmandu’s maze-like alleyways. On one attempt, we arrived just as the shutters of a promising Mo:Mo shop were closing! Locals advised us that vendors often sell out by mid-afternoon, so aim to find them earlier in the day.

Finally, persistence paid off, and a kind shop owner directed us to a smaller venue still open. We savored two types of Mo:Mo: vegetable and buffalo (or “buff,” as it’s called). Buffalo is a common protein in Nepal, given the Hindu reverence for cows.

The setting was simple – rickety chairs, a TV playing in the background, and the sounds of Kathmandu swirling around us. Out front, a large pot of boiling water held dozens of Mo:Mos, ready to be served. The Mo:Mos were delicious on their own, especially the vegetable ones. But the spicy achaar, made with sesame, tomato, and chili, elevated them to street food perfection, all for under a dollar a plate.

Mo:Mo’s catchy name, balanced flavors, and even its quirky colon punctuation, make it a culinary star. It’s a mystery why this dish isn’t a global sensation!

“…it’s even got a funky colon…”

Quenching Your Thirst: Nepalese Drinks

What better way to complement a plate of dal bhat or a serving of Mo:Mos than with a local alcoholic beverage? Nepal offers a surprising variety of drinks, from excellent to… less so.

Here’s a guide to some Nepali alcoholic drinks, in descending order of alcohol content:

Aila (60%): This potent spirit quickly banished jetlag! Known as “wasa” or “medicine,” aila is best found in restaurants specializing in Newari cuisine (the Newari people are native to the Kathmandu Valley). The serving ritual is a spectacle – servers pour aila into small bowls from a height without spilling a drop. While often rice-based, millet-based aila offers a richer, earthier flavor.

Raksi (22%): A milder version of aila, raksi is also made from rice or millet. Its lower alcohol content allows for a more nuanced appreciation of its flavors. With a smooth, velvety texture similar to Japanese sake, raksi is a warming option, commonly found in Himalayan tea houses, perfect for cold evenings.

Mustang Coffee (20%): A truly unique concoction! Mustang Coffee is a blend of rice fried in butter, warm raksi, and coffee powder. It’s worth trying for the novelty, though it might not become your go-to drink. You can read more about its origins here.

Chaang (5%): Chaang was the biggest surprise among Nepali drinks. This fermented beverage, resembling dairy, turned out to be surprisingly refreshing. One sip transported me to South Korea! If you’ve tried makgeolli (Korean rice beer), chaang offers a similar experience, but tangier. It’s a great choice for a hot day.

Essential Tips for Enjoying Nepalese Food

Exploring food in a new country is exciting, but a few tips can enhance your experience and avoid any mishaps:

Water: Avoid tap water at all costs! Stick to bottled water or water that has been boiled thoroughly. Be mindful even when showering or brushing your teeth.

Street Food: Follow general street food safety guidelines. Eat where locals eat, and choose busy stalls with high turnover for fresher ingredients. Ensure food is cooked or prepared freshly in front of you. If unsure, err on the side of caution and have remedies like Immodium readily available. Pharmacies are widespread in Kathmandu and offer affordable medications.

Etiquette: Consider eating dal bhat with your right hand like locals do. The left hand is traditionally considered unclean. If you’re not comfortable, cutlery is perfectly acceptable.

Breakfast Buffets: Hotel breakfast buffets can offer a glimpse into local breakfast preferences, but always prioritize freshness, even in hotels.

Tea: Nepal is a tea-drinking nation. Explore the diverse tea options, from masala chai to ginger-lemon tea.

Altitude and Cost: Food and drink prices increase as you ascend into the Himalayas due to transportation costs. A bottle of Coke might cost less than a dollar in Kathmandu but over $2 in Ghandruk (2000m). Boiled water is readily available and safe in tea houses.

Cost of Living: Nepal is generally a very affordable destination for food, accommodation, and transport. Beer might be slightly cheaper than in Western countries, but not significantly so.

Final Thoughts on Nepalese Cuisine

Arriving in Nepal with limited knowledge of its food, I left wanting to learn and experience more. While there are superficial similarities to Indian cuisine, Nepalese food quickly reveals itself as a unique culinary world, rich in history, culture, and flavor.

My two weeks in Nepal were just a taste, an appetizer. I now realize how many more traditional dishes await discovery, hence the title of this guide! I eagerly anticipate returning to Nepal to further immerse myself in its incredible food and warm hospitality.

As the saying goes:

“Once is not enough. Twice is never boring!”

LIKE IT? PIN IT!

If you enjoyed this exploration of Nepalese food, you might also like my adventures hiking in the Himalayan foothills!

[Link to Hiking Article]

Finally, I want to thank the organizations that made the International Travel Bloggers and Media Conference possible and sponsored bloggers like myself to visit Nepal: the Nepal Chapter of PATA, the Nepal Tourism Board, and Turkish Airlines. As always, our opinions are our own.

Namaste!

Comments

No comments yet. Why don’t you start the discussion?

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *