Venturing into the suburbs often brings a sense of the uncanny, a feeling of manufactured normalcy. Having spent years navigating the urban food landscapes of Portland, the carefully curated spaces of suburban dining can feel particularly distinct. While the suburbs often strive for a certain kind of palatable sameness, BG’s Food Cartel in Beaverton emerges as a bold, if somewhat ironically designed, exception, especially when it comes to food.
Beaverton’s history with food carts has been, shall we say, restrictive. An earlier ban, thankfully lifted in 2015, limited food cart stays to a mere seven hours and prohibited carts from clustering together. The message was clear: mobility, not community, was the desired essence of a food cart. This makes BG’s Food Cartel, the first pod since that ban, an intriguing case study in suburban food culture.
While BG’s Food Cartel might be described as an example of “aggressively manufactured suburban sprawl” in its design and scale, it undeniably delivers a diverse and high-quality culinary experience. It’s a testament to the enduring appeal of food carts, even when transplanted into a meticulously planned environment.
The Ambiance and Layout of BG’s Food Cartel: Mega-Mall or Foodie Haven?
The sheer size of BG’s Food Cartel is the first thing that strikes you. It’s vast, almost sprawling, hosting so many food carts that you’ll find two E-San Thai food carts practically side-by-side. This isn’t about offering more choices than a typical downtown Portland pod; it’s about scale and intention. This isn’t an organic growth of carts finding their place on city streets; it’s a deliberately created destination, a “food megamall” that, ironically, turns its back on the very street it occupies.
The carts are arranged in an irregular perimeter, enclosing a central concrete area dotted with patches of AstroTurf. These AstroTurf rectangles are designated with signs: “Human Area” and “Pet Area.” However, reality often diverges from the plan, with children frequently populating the “Pet Area” while the “Human Area” remains oddly vacant, perhaps due to the noticeable lack of seating in its vicinity. This raises questions: What kind of “pets,” beyond dogs, are anticipated here? Does Beaverton anticipate an influx of cat- and bird-toting food cart enthusiasts? And what does it say about our social norms when such behavior becomes unremarkable?
Seating options at BG’s include a large indoor area with a strikingly high ceiling, a partially covered and heated patio, and the aforementioned AstroTurf patches. The experience is generally pleasant enough, if you can tune out the constant stream of early-2000s pop and ska music piped through the speakers. The soundtrack evokes a specific era, raising the question of whether Beaverton’s cultural peak remains firmly rooted in the early millennial high school experience.
The beer offerings, available at both indoor and outdoor bars, lean towards the predictable “beer-dad” spectrum: IPAs, lagers, and cider dominate the taps. While not adventurous, the selection is broad enough to likely provide a decent pairing for whatever culinary adventure you choose from the food carts.
Culinary Delights: Exploring the Diverse Food Carts at BG’s Food Cartel
And a culinary adventure it is. The variety of food at BG’s Food Cartel is genuinely impressive. Beyond the two E-San Thai carts, you’ll find Chinese, sushi, poke, German sausages, burgers, chicken wings, cemitas, and even a dedicated avocado cart. However, the true standouts are the unique and exceptionally delicious options that might tempt even dedicated Portland foodies to venture into Beaverton.
One such gem is Abuela Chona, an Argentinian cart specializing in empanadas and choripan chorizo sandwiches. The empanadas are the stars here, each one a flavorful and distinct creation. The espinaca empanada, filled with spinach, cheese, and expertly balanced spices, is so delicious that even the vibrant chimichurri sauce feels almost unnecessary (though you should absolutely try it). For a heartier option, the criolla empanada, filled with savory beef and chopped olives, is a close second to the espinaca. To sample a bit of everything, the combo plate, featuring two empanadas, potatoes, chimichurri, and a sweet alfajor cookie, is an excellent value.
For fans of cheesesteaks, The Phil is a must-visit. Offering classic Philly cheesesteaks, as well as variations like French dip and a Thai pork version, The Phil also excels with its loaded fries. The “build-your-own” fry concept can be overwhelming, but the menu provides helpful guidance. Don’t miss the suggestion to top your fries with “The Phil’s Stroganoff”: beef, mushrooms, and cream cheese – a surprisingly delicious and decadent combination. With small portions available, experimenting with different fry combinations is highly encouraged.
On a cooler day, Magokoro ramen, conveniently located near the covered seating area, provides comforting and flavorful bowls. The miso ramen, rich and deeply savory with sake lees, is particularly satisfying. The “deluxe” version, with a perfectly seasoned egg and extra chashu pork, is a worthwhile upgrade. For warmer days, Mariana’s Food Cart offers the vibrant flavors of Guam with Chamorro-style dishes like lumpia, red rice, and BBQ chicken and pork ribs. The fiesta plate is the way to go here, offering a generous sampling of almost the entire menu at a great price.
BG’s Food Cartel also features familiar names from the Portland food cart scene, including Altengartz German sausages and Smaaken, known for their waffle sandwiches. With coffee from Bow Tie Baristas, tea from Pre Tea, and breakfast options at Belly Bar, BG’s Food Cartel positions itself as an all-day destination.
Final Verdict: Is BG’s Food Cartel Worth the Suburban Trek?
If you live or work in Beaverton, BG’s Food Cartel is an obvious and excellent choice for a meal out. But even for Portland residents, the quality of carts like The Phil, Mariana’s, and especially Abuela Chona, might just justify the MAX ride or navigating the sometimes-perplexing Beaverton parking situation. Just be prepared for a potentially manufactured suburban vibe and a soundtrack that might transport you back to a high school dance. Unless, of course, you have a deep and abiding love for Reel Big Fish – in which case, you’ll feel right at home.
