Soul food is often associated with rich flavors and hearty dishes, deeply rooted in African-American culinary tradition. However, the concept of Vegan Soul Food might seem unexpected to some. But what if you could enjoy the essence of soul food – its comforting tastes and cultural significance – while embracing a plant-based lifestyle? This is exactly what chef Bryant Terry explores in his groundbreaking work, particularly in his book, Vegan Soul Kitchen: Fresh, Healthy, And Creative African-American Cuisine.
Bryant Terry, a food activist and eco-chef, offers a fresh perspective on soul food, demonstrating that it can be both vegan and deeply satisfying. His journey into veganism wasn’t about strict labels, but rather a conscious exploration of food and its impact. As Terry explains, his dietary choices have been fluid, ranging from omnivore to fruitarian, driven by a desire to understand how different foods affect him physically, mentally, and emotionally. He emphasizes that deliciousness is paramount; healthy food must also be enjoyable. This philosophy is central to his approach to vegan soul food – creating dishes that are both nourishing and bursting with flavor.
When we think of soul food, images of pork fat-infused collard greens, ribs, and fried chicken often come to mind. These dishes, while undeniably flavorful, represent a limited view of a much broader culinary heritage. Terry points out that over the past few decades, African-American cuisine has been unfortunately simplified to these heavier, often less healthy options, typically reserved for holidays and special occasions. The everyday soul food of his upbringing, and that of many families in his community, was rooted in fresh, seasonal, and locally sourced ingredients – often from backyard gardens. This older tradition, predating industrialization of the food system, is what Terry seeks to revive and reimagine through a vegan lens.
He argues that relying on animal products like bacon grease for flavor is “the easy way out.” Instead, he advocates for employing more nuanced cooking techniques and embracing the “slow food” tradition inherent in African-American cooking. By taking the time to coax out flavors from plant-based ingredients, he believes we can achieve the same delicious depth without relying on animal products.
To illustrate his approach, Terry highlights his recipe for Citrus Collards with Raisins Redux. Traditionally, collard greens are cooked for hours, resulting in a tender but often less vibrant dish. Terry’s redux offers a modern twist. He blanches the collard greens briefly to retain their bright color and nutrients, then sautés them with garlic and olive oil, finishing with sea salt, raisins, and a touch of citrus.
Citrus Collards with Raisins Redux recipe by Bryant Terry
This dish is not just a recipe; for Terry, it’s a metaphor for the evolution of African-American cuisine in the 21st century. The raisins and orange juice represent a move towards creativity, innovation, and a refreshing approach to traditional staples. It’s about honoring the past while embracing the future.
Beyond the culinary aspects, Terry’s work emphasizes the connection between food and culture. In Vegan Soul Kitchen, each recipe is paired with a song suggestion, reflecting his belief in the inseparable link between food, music, and community. Growing up in a musical family in the South, music was always intertwined with food gatherings. His uncle, Don, even wrote the song “I Can’t Stand the Rain,” famously covered by Ann Peebles and Tina Turner. Terry’s inclusion of music in his cookbook is a way to encourage presence and mindfulness about the journey of food from the earth to our plates, acknowledging everyone involved. He aims to inspire a reconnection with traditions and the creation of new ones, celebrating food as a central element of culture and community.
Vegan soul food, as championed by Bryant Terry, is more than just a dietary trend. It’s a thoughtful and creative approach to cooking that honors the rich heritage of soul food while embracing plant-based eating. It’s about deliciousness, health, cultural relevance, and community – proving that soul food can indeed be both vegan and deeply soulful.
