For three decades, Market Hall Foods, a cornerstone of Oakland’s Rockridge Market Hall, has been a celebrated culinary destination. Originally known as The Pasta Shop, Market Hall Foods marked its 30th anniversary in 2017, a testament to its enduring appeal within the vibrant Oakland food scene. This milestone coincided with another significant achievement: Executive Chef Scott Miller’s own 30-year tenure at the heart of the Market Hall Kitchen. In an industry often characterized by fleeting trends and chef personalities, Chef Miller has remained a constant, a culinary anchor at Market Hall Foods Oakland since its inception. His journey is interwoven with the story of Market Hall Foods itself, and he has a wealth of experiences to share from his remarkable career. We had the opportunity to sit down with Chef Miller amidst the lively atmosphere of his bustling kitchen to delve into his history and the evolution of Market Hall Foods Oakland.
From Berkeley Roots to Culinary Mastery at Market Hall Foods
Chef Miller’s path to becoming the Executive Chef of a beloved food institution began in the eclectic environment of Berkeley in the 1960s. His early life was far removed from the culinary world, immersed instead in the social and political currents of the time. “I even went to Black Panthers Summer Camp!” he recalls, painting a picture of a youth spent exploring and experiencing the vibrant culture of Berkeley. However, a chance opportunity in 1978 set him on his culinary trajectory. A friend helped him secure a dishwashing job at Narsai’s, a restaurant helmed by Narsai David, a figure already legendary in the local food scene alongside Alice Waters. This marked the beginning of his formal culinary education.
From the initial humble role of washing dishes, Chef Miller quickly demonstrated aptitude and passion. Within weeks, he was promoted to prep work, a crucial step where he began to hone essential knife skills. His learning accelerated when he started working with Jim, Narsai’s brother and the restaurant’s charcutière. Under Jim’s tutelage, Chef Miller immersed himself in the art of charcuterie, mastering the creation of pâtés, terrines, and sausages. His dedication and skill led him to take over as charcutière when Jim departed, a role in which he truly excelled. “I became the charcutière and got really good at it,” he states, reflecting on this pivotal period.
A Pioneer in Charcuterie and Prepared Foods
Chef Miller’s early expertise in charcuterie positioned him ahead of a culinary trend that would later explode in popularity. He notes with a touch of humor, “Right, I was a charcutière when no one knew how to say the word. Now, there’s this big wave. It’s great, but I was doing this s%*t back in 1980.” His days at Narsai’s were dedicated to the meticulous craft of terrines, galantines, and pâtés en croûte, laying a foundation of deep knowledge in classic culinary techniques.
After Narsai’s, Chef Miller’s journey continued with the original owners of The Pasta Shop, the precursor to today’s Market Hall Foods Oakland. He spent three years contributing to their vision before venturing into consulting, assisting others in launching their own restaurants. This period of diverse experiences broadened his understanding of the restaurant industry and prepared him for his long-term commitment to Market Hall Foods.
The pivotal moment arrived when the Wilsons acquired The Pasta Shop. Recognizing Chef Miller’s talent and experience, they sought him out. “Yes, they’d purchased the business [The Pasta Shop] and wanted to work with me, so they hunted me down. And the rest is history!” he recounts, marking the beginning of his three-decade partnership with the Wilson family and Market Hall Foods Oakland.
The Influence of Women and Family Values at Market Hall Foods Oakland
Chef Miller emphasizes the significant impact of the women he has worked with throughout his career, contrasting their approach with that of his early mentor, Narsai David. He describes Narsai as “a maniacal, crazed, genius guy” from whom he learned valuable lessons, particularly about minimizing waste. However, his experiences with women in the culinary world, including Barbara Tropp at China Moon, Amaryll Schwertner at Premier Cru, and notably Sara Wilson and Sandy Sonnenfelt at Market Hall Foods Oakland, provided a different, equally impactful learning environment.
“These women had a different approach, patient and gentle, calming yet creative,” Chef Miller observes. He credits their influence in shaping his own leadership style, fostering a more supportive and collaborative kitchen environment. (pictured, Sara Wilson with Chef Miller in the late 80’s)
Working for a family-owned business like Market Hall Foods Oakland has also been a defining aspect of Chef Miller’s career. He speaks fondly of the Wilsons’ hands-on approach and unwavering commitment. “I loved the Wilsons from the beginning. They were there every day with me. Tony would be behind the line with me, grilling sausages at the street fair on a little Weber,” he recalls, highlighting their dedication and collaborative spirit. This family atmosphere and shared work ethic have been central to the success and longevity of Market Hall Foods Oakland.
Chef Miller flanked by General Manager Ali Jahangiri, Tony Wilson, Peter Wilson, Chef Sandy Sonnenfelt, Sara Wilson and CFO Gustavo Houghton
Work Ethic and Longevity: Cornerstones of Market Hall Foods Oakland
Chef Miller emphasizes the importance of a strong work ethic, a value deeply ingrained in the culture of Market Hall Foods Oakland. “Yes, and these are the kind of people I now hire, people with a tremendous work ethic—one day cleaning a grease trap, the next day chopping onions. There’s no ‘I don’t do that.'” This ethos of dedication and willingness to tackle any task, regardless of hierarchy, mirrors his own career trajectory, rising from dishwasher to Executive Chef.
His 30-year tenure at Market Hall Foods Oakland is a remarkable achievement in an industry known for its high turnover. Initially, he questioned his own longevity, wondering if it indicated a lack of ambition or fear of venturing out on his own.
“Initially, people would say, ‘Wow you’ve been here a long time’. At first, I wasn’t sure if it was a sign of weakness.” However, he came to appreciate the profound benefits of his long-term commitment, particularly the work-life balance it afforded him, allowing him to be present for his two sons as they grew up. “Now they’ve grown up and there’s no ‘woulda, coulda, shoulda’. There’s such a high value to that.” (pictured, Sara Wilson and Chef Miller holding the photo of themselves from three decades prior)
At his 30-year celebration, Tony Wilson lauded Chef Miller’s stability, a quality that is invaluable in the often-turbulent restaurant business. “I’m really stable. When you think about this business, that is really something.” This stability has been instrumental in the consistent growth and profitability of Market Hall Foods Oakland’s kitchen operations over the years.
The Market Hall Foods kitchen staff and family members at Chef Miller’s 30-year celebration
A Culinary Family and Enduring Food Philosophy at Market Hall Foods Oakland
The sense of family extends beyond the Wilsons to the entire staff at Market Hall Foods Oakland. Chef Miller describes the team as “a big, extended family” who have shared significant life events and weathered challenges together, from earthquakes and fires to personal milestones. “We’ve lived through a lot of stuff together over the years. Going through the earthquake, the firestorm . . . We’ve had some deaths and divorces, as well as lots of marriages and births.”
Despite evolving food trends, Chef Miller believes that the core desires of diners remain consistent: “What people really want is fresh, high-quality food.” While buzzwords like “natural,” “organic,” and “non-GMO” come and go, Market Hall Foods Oakland has remained focused on simplicity and quality. He recalls Sara Wilson’s guiding principle: “Too many ingredients!”, emphasizing their commitment to letting the quality of ingredients shine. This philosophy of simple, high-quality food has been a constant at Market Hall Foods Oakland, even as culinary trends have shifted.
Staying Grounded and Focused on Quality
Unlike many contemporary chefs who seek celebrity status, Chef Miller is decidedly low-key and introverted. “No, I’m shy and introverted for the most part.” He finds greater satisfaction in the recognition from his team and the enduring success of Market Hall Foods Oakland than in personal fame. The large turnout at his 30-year celebration, with staff from all departments, was deeply meaningful to him, underscoring the strong relationships he has cultivated.
His sons now work at Market Hall Foods Oakland, a source of immense pride for Chef Miller. “On the one hand, it couldn’t warm my heart more that they’re interested in food. It makes me proud, and they’re proud of me.” However, he also recognizes the changing landscape of the culinary industry and wants his sons to have diverse options. “So do I want my sons to follow in my footsteps? Not necessarily. I want them to have options.” (pictured, Chef Miller with his sons Max and Josh)
Chef Miller cites Narsai David, Barbara Tropp, Jacques Pépin, and Sandy Sonnenfelt as his top culinary influences, a diverse group that reflects his wide-ranging culinary experiences and values. He continues to be actively involved in the kitchen at Market Hall Foods Oakland, focusing on recipe development and ensuring consistency. “At this point, I jump in where needed. Either working out new recipes, or reworking current recipes. I spend a lot of time writing recipes.” His dedication to creating foolproof recipes is crucial for maintaining the high standards that customers expect from Market Hall Foods Oakland.
While a cookbook has been a long-discussed project, for now, Chef Miller’s focus remains on the daily operations and culinary excellence at Market Hall Foods Oakland. When asked about his desert island food, he chooses pizza, revealing a love for simple, satisfying flavors. His daily lunch often consists of Market Hall Foods’ salads, highlighting his appreciation for their own offerings. His favorite deli items from Market Hall Foods Oakland include their Ranch Dressing, Roasted Tomato Sauce, and Nocellara olives, staples he keeps at home.
Family continues to be central, with his sons’ favorite Market Hall Foods sandwiches and his parents’ unwavering support. His mother, his “#1 fan,” enjoys everything they create. Ultimately, Chef Miller attributes his long and successful career to the loyalty and talent of his team at Market Hall Foods Oakland. “My crew has shown me incredible loyalty… I would be nowhere without them.” He values long-term relationships, both with his employees and purveyors, fostering a strong sense of community within Market Hall Foods Oakland. “We’re like a big tribe.” (pictured, Chefs Sonnenfelt and Miller with long-time Kitchen Managers Manuel Sánchez and Patricio Alvarado)
Chef Scott Miller’s story is intrinsically linked to the story of Market Hall Foods Oakland, a testament to dedication, quality, and the enduring appeal of simple, delicious food. His 30-year journey reflects not only personal culinary mastery but also the growth and evolution of a beloved Oakland institution.
