Little Anita’s New Mexican Food holds a special place in the hearts (and stomachs) of Albuquerque locals and visitors alike. But for my friend Scott Pacheco, mentioning Little Anita’s is like waving a red flag in front of a bull, or perhaps more accurately, reminding him of a painful Super Bowl defeat. Scott’s strong feelings aren’t about the quality of the food, the atmosphere, or the service at Little Anita’s. His issue is rooted in a matter of state pride and a certain football game that still stings.
To understand Scott’s passionate aversion, you need to know he cherishes two things above almost all else: the Denver Broncos and authentic New Mexican green chile. These passions collided during Super Bowl XLVIII in 2014, when the Seattle Seahawks trounced the Broncos 43-8. The sting of defeat was compounded by a friendly wager between the mayors of Denver and Seattle, involving local delicacies. Denver’s Mayor Michael Hancock bet green chile stew from Denver restaurants, including Little Anita’s. In Scott’s eyes, offering Little Anita’s green chile to Seattle was an act of culinary treason, a betrayal of good taste to the team that crushed his beloved Broncos. He felt the exchange was unfairly tilted, arguing that Seattle’s wager of salmon was no match for the treasure that is New Mexican green chile. His resentment runs so deep that when a Little Anita’s location in Albuquerque caught fire in October 2014, his reaction was, shall we say, unsympathetic.
Little Anita’s New Mexican Food Old Town Albuquerque restaurant exterior
It’s likely Denver residents shared some of Scott’s sentiments about giving away their green chile, as Coloradoans also have a deep appreciation for this Southwestern staple. Denver’s Westword publication has even recognized Little Anita’s Denver locations – a New Mexico original with a presence in Colorado – for “Best Taste of New Mexico” and “Best Red Chile,” proving its appeal extends beyond state lines. However, Scott won’t be swayed to visit a Denver Little Anita’s anytime soon.
From Doughnuts to Deliciousness: The Anita’s Story
The story of Little Anita’s actually begins with “Anita’s,” founded in 1974 in Northern Virginia by Anita Tellez, an Albuquerque native. Homesick for the flavors of New Mexico near Washington, D.C., Anita transformed an old doughnut shop into a restaurant serving authentic New Mexican red and green chile recipes passed down through her family. The area embraced Anita’s cuisine, and within its first year, the restaurant generated an impressive $2 million in revenue. Anita’s success continued, and today, there are eight Anita’s restaurants, with further expansion planned.
Delicious chips and salsa at Little Anita’s New Mexican Food
In 1976, Anita’s eldest son, Larry Gutierrez, brought the New Mexican flavors to Albuquerque, opening the first Little Anita’s restaurant. Over four decades, Little Anita’s has become a beloved local chain with nine locations across Albuquerque. Their website boasts that you’re never more than a short fifteen-minute drive from satisfying your New Mexican food cravings. Little Anita’s also claims to be the first in Albuquerque to serve breakfast burritos back in the 1970s, a testament to their enduring appeal and innovation. Yet, even the allure of a breakfast burrito isn’t enough to thaw Scott’s icy opinion.
Dining at the Flagship: Little Anita’s in Old Town
The Little Anita’s in Old Town Albuquerque is considered the chain’s flagship location, and for good reason. It’s a popular spot for tourists, but it also clearly resonates with locals. During a recent visit, the patio was filled with happy diners, locals among them, all enjoying their meals. The friendly waitress, managing both indoor and outdoor tables, confirmed that their red chile does contain cumin, but helpfully pointed out the many cumin-free options available for those with sensitivities or preferences.
Little Anita’s Trio appetizer – bean dip, chile con queso, guacamole
Shortly after being seated, a basket of light, crispy chips and a bowl of salsa arrived. The chips are perfect for dipping, though perhaps not sturdy enough for scooping generous portions. The salsa is mild, flavorful, and approachable for most palates, even tourists. However, a larger serving would be welcome.
For a classic New Mexican appetizer experience, the “Trio” is a must-try. This dish features chile con queso, guacamole, and a bean dip instead of the traditional salsa. The chile con queso is rich, creamy, and served warm. The guacamole, while fresh, is served on a bed of shredded lettuce, which can become soggy. The bean dip, enhanced with green chile and cheese, is flavorful but could use a bit more heat for those who prefer a spicier kick.
Steak Asada Combo plate at Little Anita’s New Mexican Food with enchiladas and tostadas
Because of the cumin in the red chile, we opted for dishes from the “Hot From The Grill” section. The steak asada combo was a standout. The ten-ounce grilled top sirloin was cooked to perfection, sliced into tender medallions, and infused with smoky grilled flavor. It’s a satisfying cut of beef, lean and flavorful. The combo includes two enchiladas with your choice of red or green chile, and two tostadas – one with guacamole and one with refried beans (frijoles). The green chile, like the salsa, is on the milder side. The frijoles tostada benefited from a bit of added salsa for extra zest.
Sizzling beef fajitas at Little Anita’s New Mexican Food
The beef fajitas, another grilled option, feature half a pound of beef served over sautéed bell peppers and onions on a sizzling skillet. Accompaniments include beans, pico de gallo, sour cream, guacamole, salsa, and homemade flour tortillas. The fajita presentation is classic and enticing, with the aroma filling the air as it arrives. The beef is tender and flavorful, complemented by sweet, translucent onions. The sour cream and guacamole add cooling contrasts, and the flour tortillas are perfect for wrapping up the savory filling.
Sopaipillas dessert at Little Anita’s New Mexican Food
Each plate comes with two sopaipillas, traditional New Mexican fried pastries. These were served with honey-flavored syrup, not pure honey, a subtle difference that purists might notice. The sopaipillas were also thinner than the truly pillowy versions, but still warm and enjoyable.
Perhaps Scott’s grudge against Little Anita’s is a bit extreme. By avoiding it, he’s missing out on some solid New Mexican cuisine. But for the rest of us, his self-imposed ban just means there’s more Little Anita’s to go around.
Little Anita’s New Mexico
2105 Mountain Road, N.W.
Albuquerque, New Mexico
(505) 242-3102
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LATEST VISIT: 9 July 2018
