Uni, often dubbed the “sea urchin roe,” has ascended to the heights of culinary prestige, gracing sushi bars in Japan and across the globe as a sought-after delicacy. However, the story of uni extends far beyond high-end dining. For centuries, communities bordering coastlines from Peru to Italy and Korea have harvested sea urchins. In Korea, the haenyeo, remarkable female divers, have for generations plunged into the ocean’s depths, skillfully collecting these spiny treasures from rocks using only knives and breath-hold diving techniques.
For those familiar with uni, the experience often evokes either passionate adoration or immediate aversion. This creamy, golden-hued seafood presents a complex flavor profile that divides palates.
Uni’s taste is indeed multifaceted. Enthusiasts describe it as sweet, buttery, and reminiscent of a refreshing plunge into cool saltwater. While savoring raw uni atop gunkan-maki at a sushi establishment remains a popular indulgence, its versatility shines through in lightly cooked or steamed preparations as well. Conversely, detractors often employ less flattering comparisons to articulate their distaste.
Any exploration of uni necessitates delving into the intricacies of echinoderm biology. It’s crucial to clarify that uni is not roe (fish eggs), but rather the gonads, or reproductive organs, of the sea urchin. Each urchin yields five uni “tongues,” carefully extracted. Observing a uni harvesting process reveals a food source as naturally contained and appealing as an oyster, readily enjoyed directly from its shell.
Among the over one hundred sea urchin species inhabiting our oceans, only a select few are commercially harvested for culinary purposes, becoming familiar to diners worldwide. The waters surrounding Hokkaido, Japan’s northern island, are particularly renowned for uni that thrives on pristine kelp forests. This diet imparts an intensely umami flavor to the uni. Notable species from this region include Murasaki uni (purple sea urchin), highly prized for its large, flavorful tongues and sweet taste, commanding premium prices. Another significant variety is Bafun uni. Its name, humorously translating to “horse dung” due to the clustered, brownish appearance of these creatures on the seabed, offers a more robust flavor profile.
North America boasts two prominent uni fisheries. On the West Coast, Santa Barbara uni, sourced from the giant red sea urchin, is celebrated for its substantial size, firm texture, and pronounced sweetness. On the East Coast, Maine uni originates from green sea urchins, characterized by their longer spines.
Freshness reigns supreme when it comes to uni. Optimal uni should exhibit a firm texture and vibrant color, devoid of any liquid seepage, ideally presented in its original, meticulously arranged packaging. Post-harvest, uni’s delicate nature becomes apparent as it begins to degrade, potentially developing an unpleasantly bitter and off-putting taste. In ideal scenarios, uni undergoes swift cleaning, icing, and shipping to preserve its quality. However, preservatives like alum are sometimes employed to maintain firmness. These additives can compromise the flavor, especially in older uni. To circumvent this, discerning sushi chefs, such as Otto Pham of Chicago’s Kyoten, favor ensui uni. This premium product is shipped in a brine solution that mirrors seawater salinity, ensuring peak freshness and taste.
Beyond its quintessential role in sushi, uni is increasingly featured in diverse culinary settings. Its inherent buttery richness makes it a natural complement to butter itself. This harmonious pairing is exemplified in dishes like Barbecued Oysters with Smoky Uni Butter and Squid Ink Mafaldine Pasta with Uni Butter. For a simpler yet equally delightful preparation, consider fresh fettuccine tossed with butter and herbs, finished with a few tongues of uni gently folded in at the last moment, warmed through to unlock another dimension of its exquisite flavor.
