When I first encountered the term “rijsttafel” at an Indonesian Food Restaurant in Amsterdam, I was initially puzzled. Seeing this word prominently displayed outside numerous establishments sparked my curiosity. It seemed ubiquitous, yet completely foreign to my understanding of Indonesian cuisine. This led me on a journey to uncover the story behind this dish, revealing a fascinating intersection of culture, colonialism, and culinary adaptation that is essential for anyone exploring Indonesian food restaurants, especially outside of Indonesia.
My initial confusion stemmed from my personal experiences with Indonesian food. Growing up with Indonesian heritage, dishes like nasi goreng, gado-gado, and sate were staples. However, “rijsttafel” was never part of my family’s culinary repertoire. This discrepancy became even more intriguing when, upon entering a seemingly authentic Indonesian restaurant in Amsterdam, the Dutch waiter addressed me in fluent Bahasa Indonesia. He explained that he was Indo, of mixed Dutch and Indonesian heritage, and had moved to the Netherlands as a child. When I inquired about his menu recommendations, he suggested the rijsttafel.
“Apa itu?” I asked, echoing my confusion. “What is that?”. The waiter elaborated that a rijsttafel, meaning “rice table” in Dutch, is not just a single dish but an elaborate spread. It’s a culinary adventure showcasing a variety of Indonesian cuisines in tapas-sized portions, ranging from savory sate skewers to rich nasi padang curries, and crispy kropoek crackers. Despite this enticing description, my bewilderment lingered. If the rijsttafel was so representative of Indonesian food, why had I, someone familiar with Indonesian culinary traditions, never encountered it before?
My quest for answers unveiled the colonial roots of the rijsttafel. During the Dutch East Indies era, the Netherlands’ colonial name for Indonesia, the rijsttafel emerged as a way for the Dutch colonizers to indulge in the diverse flavors of the archipelago in a single, extravagant meal. It was designed not only for personal enjoyment but also to impress guests, showcasing the perceived exoticism and cultural richness of their colony. Imagine elaborate displays with lines of servants, often women in traditional sarongs, presenting up to forty different dishes in a single seating.
However, with Indonesia’s hard-won independence in 1945, the rijsttafel, deeply associated with Dutch colonial rule, was largely rejected within Indonesia itself. It was seen as a symbol of colonial excess, a far cry from authentic Indonesian dining customs where such an abundance of food in one sitting is considered ostentatious. Yet, paradoxically, the rijsttafel thrived in the Netherlands and in Indonesian food restaurants across the globe. This explains its prominence in Amsterdam and other international locations, serving as a nostalgic link to a shared, albeit complex, history.
Understanding the history of the rijsttafel adds a layer of depth to the experience of dining at an Indonesian food restaurant, particularly outside of Indonesia. It transforms the rijsttafel from just another menu item into a cultural artifact, a culinary embodiment of the Dutch colonial era and its lasting impact on both Indonesian and Dutch societies. It serves as a reminder of the intricate, often fraught, relationship between the two nations. While modern Dutch-Indonesian relations are generally positive, the rijsttafel remains a “food for thought” experience, prompting reflection on history and cultural exchange within the context of enjoying a meal at an Indonesian food restaurant.
