Some of my most vivid childhood memories are intertwined with the balmy afternoons spent in my grandparents’ Oaxacan garden. Gathered around a large table, we cousins eagerly awaited a “special candy” from my grandfather. With eyes closed and hands outstretched, we’d receive the treat, followed by a playful challenge: “Ten pesos for the first to eat it without peeking!”
Unbeknownst to us, these “special candies” were chapulines – grasshoppers, tiny insects boasting delicate legs and a zesty tang. My grandfather’s playful pranks introduced us to a spectrum of bold flavors and unique textures that, over time, became synonymous with the comforting embrace of home, filled with delicious food and carefree laughter. It was the genesis of my enduring fondness for these vibrant red insects, tiny jewels that are a staple on any authentic Oaxacan table.
Among the diverse array of foods native to Oaxaca, the grasshopper, or chapulín, stands out as a particularly iconic ingredient. While they may not always be the star attraction in every dish, their prevalence today speaks volumes about the enduring strength of ancient culinary practices. Before the arrival of Spanish cattle, the indigenous populations of Mexico primarily sourced their protein from ducks, turkeys, wild boar, fish, and a variety of insects. Chapulines were readily abundant and reliably accessible, easily prepared, seasoned, dried, and stored for times of scarcity.
Found thriving in alfalfa and cornfields from June through October, chapulines emerge with the first rains. They are harvested using specialized nets, strategically positioned to capture these small insects as they hop from plant to plant. “The young chapulines are caught in June, the small to medium ones in July and August, and the medium to large ones in September, October, and occasionally even November,” explains Inocencia Mendez Martin, a leading authority on all things chapulines.
Of the many foods endemic to Oaxaca, the grasshopper is one of the area’s most representative ingredients.
Inocencia is the proud owner of Chapulines Doña Chencha, a captivating 30-year-old stall overflowing with chapulines of every size, nestled within Oaxaca City’s bustling Central de Abastos market. “I began selling vegetables and chapulines at 22. Initially, I only had a small basket of them, but surprisingly, they were my best-selling item. So, I decided to specialize solely in chapulines and expand my selection,” she recounts. Her journey to chapuline expertise was far from effortless. “I started by asking relatives about chapulines and was introduced to farmers from various parts of Oaxaca. They began bringing me chapulines of all sizes, and I became an expert. I learned to distinguish between those harvested and processed correctly at the ideal time and those that were stale or excessively seasoned,” she shares.
The level of detail involved in selecting top-quality chapulines is truly remarkable. The cooking process itself is relatively straightforward: after harvesting, chapulines are washed and cooked in water seasoned with salt, lime juice, and garlic. “The flavor is difficult to describe, but I’d say they have a distinctly herbal taste,” Inocencia suggests. The seasoning should be subtle, intended to enhance their delicate natural flavor. Overly salty, acidic, or spicy chapulines are a red flag, as vendors sometimes use excessive seasoning to mask a sour or bitter taste, indicating improper drying or harvesting too late in their maturity cycle.
Texturally, chapulines should be crisp and dry. “Excess moisture almost certainly leads to mold, which is undesirable. It also makes the chapulines soggy, and that characteristic crunch is precisely what we love about them,” Inocencia explains. “I remember as a child, I loved wrapping a handful of chapulines in a warm, fresh blanda [tortilla], relishing the crunch of the chapulines against the soft, sweet corn dough. That’s my favorite way to enjoy them. Sometimes, for extra flavor, I’ll fry them with chili until they become like chicharrines [crisps/chips],” she adds, her eyes smiling above her mask.
Doña Chencha, as she’s known to family and customers alike, prefers her chapulines unadulterated, a sentiment shared by most Oaxacans. Whether at a bar, restaurant, or family gathering, chapulines are served in bowls, perfect for snacking or sprinkling atop guacamole tacos or quesillo tostadas (crispy tortillas). Chapulines are to tacos and tostadas what grated parmesan is to pasta; they elevate any dish with their herbaceous and slightly acidic finish. While their simple preparation and consumption might contradict the common perception of Oaxacan food as elaborate, chapulines perfectly embody the core principles of our cuisine: natural, wholesome, and locally sourced directly from the fields.
For all these reasons, the appeal of chapulines is spreading far beyond rural areas and local homes. Increasingly, people are recognizing chapulines as a more intelligent and sustainable protein alternative to animal meats. Numerous nutritional studies highlight that grasshoppers boast a protein content ranging from 50 to 75 percent (in comparison, cooked lean beef contains approximately 25 percent protein); they are also rich in minerals and antioxidants. “Growing up, there was a common belief that chapulines provided stamina, but some city dwellers viewed them as food for the poor or found them slightly repulsive,” Inocencia recalls.
“This perception is changing dramatically. Now, you can find chapulines incorporated into omelets, salads, and dishes in even the most sophisticated restaurants. Looking at my clientele over the past decade, they come from all walks of life and various parts of the country and the world. We can confidently say that chapulines have become a truly democratic food,” she adds.
She’s right – grasshopper enthusiasm is undeniably on the rise. Chefs, home cooks, and street food vendors throughout Oaxaca are reimagining chapulines in innovative and unexpected ways. For instance, some vendors selling esquites (cups of boiled corn with various toppings) now offer regular chapulines, chapulin-chili powder, or even chapulin-infused mayo as topping choices.
“I started with nothing with chapulines, and now they are my life. My son became a chef because he inherited my passion for grasshoppers. My daughter studied economics, inspired by watching her mother build a family solely by selling these tiny insects,” Inocencia says, gesturing towards baskets overflowing with baby chapulines. And just like Inocencia and her children, my culinary curiosity was sparked by my grandfather’s chapuline-filled childhood pranks.
It’s a timeless tale, destined to repeat itself in countless forms and with different characters – perhaps a pair of friends seeking out novel ingredients, or a group of travelers exploring new cultures, all discovering chapulines and becoming devoted to these insects that are both sustenance and a source of immense culinary delight.
Editor’s note: Our recurring feature, Building Blocks, focuses on foods and ingredients that are fundamental to the cuisines we write about.
By María Ítaka, photos by Jalil Olmedo
Published on February 26, 2021
