British Chinese Food has recently become a hot topic, especially across the pond in the United States, sparking lively debates and even some confusion. Fueled by TikTok trends like #britishchinesefood, which has garnered millions of views, Americans are reacting to dishes that look quite different from what they consider Chinese cuisine. Many are baffled by the prevalence of fried foods, the inclusion of chips, and the ubiquitous curry sauce – staples unfamiliar in American Chinese food. However, this online discourse often misses the rich history and nuanced story behind British Chinese food. It’s a cuisine born from adaptation, shaped by immigration, and deeply rooted in the ingenuity of Chinese cooks who catered to British palates. Far from being a culinary misstep, British Chinese food is an ever-evolving testament to cultural exchange and gastronomic creativity.
British Chinese food is an ever-evolving cuisine that’s rooted in adaptability and ingenuity (Credit: Septemberlegs/Alamy)
The TikTok Stir: American Perceptions vs. Reality
The recent TikTok frenzy surrounding British Chinese food highlights a significant cultural difference in culinary understanding. American Asian TikToker Soogia, for example, voiced her bewilderment at the dishes being showcased online, noting their stark contrast to both American Chinese food and the Chinese cuisine she knew. This sparked a wave of reactions, some less than complimentary, with one TikTok user even questioning if British people were “eating out of a dumpster.” These reactions often center on the seemingly heavy emphasis on fried food and the incorporation of distinctly British elements like chips and curry sauce.
What’s lost in this online critique is the crucial understanding that American Chinese food itself is a product of adaptation, evolving to suit American tastes. Dismissing British Chinese food as somehow inauthentic overlooks the very same process of culinary evolution that shaped its American counterpart. Furthermore, it disregards the resourcefulness of Chinese immigrants who, upon arriving in Britain, skillfully adapted their culinary traditions to resonate with local preferences. While certain dishes like sweet and sour chicken or curry sauce might appear similar across different establishments, each British Chinese takeaway often boasts unique recipes, reflecting the specific tastes of their local communities. This begs a fundamental question: what truly defines British Chinese food?
A History of Adaptation: From Colonial Roots to Takeaway Staple
To grasp the essence of British Chinese food, it’s essential to consider the historical context, particularly the legacy of colonialism. The British Empire’s colonial relationship with Hong Kong, which lasted from 1841 to 1997, played a pivotal role. Hong Kong became a key point in established trade routes, leading European shipping companies to employ Southern Chinese men as sailors. Many of these sailors, seeking better opportunities and often facing poverty, migrated to the UK. Despite facing limitations in citizenship and rights, they established communities in Britain. To support themselves and cater to both the growing Chinese communities and fellow sailors, they started informal noodle shops. This trend intensified between World War I and World War II, laying the groundwork for what would become a distinctive cuisine.
Early Chinese Immigration and Noodle Shops
These early noodle shops were more than just eateries; they were crucial community hubs. They provided familiar flavors for Chinese immigrants and sailors while also introducing elements of Chinese cooking to the British population. This initial phase of Chinese food in Britain was characterized by practicality and adaptation, focusing on simple, affordable dishes that catered to immediate needs.
The Restaurant Boom and Catering to British Palates
The mid-20th century witnessed a significant shift. Changes in UK immigration laws after World War II, designed to address labor shortages, facilitated increased Chinese migration. This period saw a “Chinese restaurant boom,” with the number of establishments doubling between 1957 and 1964. Crucially, many of these new restaurants consciously catered to non-Chinese palates. Adapting menus and flavors to appeal to a broader British clientele became a key strategy for success.
In the 1960s, London’s West End Chinatown was born on Gerrard Street (Credit: Digital-Fotofusion Gallery/Alamy)
The 1960s marked the emergence of London’s West End Chinatown on Gerrard Street, as noted by Professor James L Watson in his 1975 book, Emigration and the Chinese Lineage. Watson observed the rapid opening of five Chinese restaurants in 1965, signaling the formal establishment of this now-iconic area. Interestingly, these early establishments were categorized by the Chinese community themselves as either catering to Chinese customers or to Westerners, highlighting the deliberate culinary divergence that was already taking place. Even earlier, in the 1950s, as the British Library notes, Chinese restaurants were already adapting to their new clientele by offering “buttered bread, pies and chips alongside Chinese dishes,” demonstrating a remarkable willingness to blend culinary traditions.
What Makes it British? Key Dishes and Influences
British Chinese food is, at its heart, a fusion cuisine, a product of cultural exchange. As chef and cookbook author Jeremy Pang aptly describes it, “[It’s] food that is influenced from one culture to the other, whichever way round you see it – from British to Chinese or Chinese to British.” This reciprocal influence is evident in many iconic British Chinese dishes.
Curry Sauce and Chips: Bridging Cultures
Perhaps the most debated element in the American TikTok discussions is the presence of curry sauce and chips. These are not traditional Chinese staples, but they are undeniably British. Their integration into British Chinese takeaway menus exemplifies the adaptation process. Curry sauce, in particular, became a bridge, offering a familiar and comforting flavor profile for British palates while still being served alongside Chinese-inspired dishes. Chips, another British comfort food, similarly found their place, creating satisfying and affordable meal combinations.
Sweet and Sour and Beyond: Adapting Flavors
Beyond these specific examples, the broader flavor profiles of many British Chinese dishes demonstrate adaptation. Sweet and sour dishes, for instance, are often sweeter and saucier than their Cantonese counterparts, catering to British preferences for bolder, more pronounced flavors. Chicken balls, another takeaway staple, are a distinctly British invention, offering a deep-fried, battered chicken option that became immensely popular. These adaptations weren’t about diluting Chinese cuisine but rather about creatively reinterpreting it to resonate with a new audience.
Many people in the UK see Chinese dishes as comfort foods (Credit: I-Wei Huang/Alamy)
For British-born Chinese individuals who grew up with this culinary landscape, these dishes hold a special significance. Anna Chan, founder of Asian Leadership Collective and a self-proclaimed “British Chinese takeaway kid,” sees the takeaway meal as quintessential to British Chinese food. She emphasizes its adaptability, noting how it constantly evolves to meet local tastes and trends. Her personal cravings for crinkle-cut chips and her father’s curry sauce highlight the deeply personal connection many have with these adapted dishes. Interestingly, Chan also points out the distinction between takeaway food and the more traditional Cantonese and Hakka food eaten at home, illustrating the duality of culinary experience for many British Chinese families.
John Li, founder of Dumpling Shack group, echoes this sentiment. Having worked in his parents’ Chinese restaurant in Caterham, he recalls family dinners of “wholesome” Cantonese and Hakka home cooking, contrasting with the fusion dishes served to customers. He recognizes the enduring popularity of British Chinese food, attributing it to its “comfort food” flavor profile that resonates deeply with British people. Even Yee, Li’s partner and another “Chinese takeaway kid,” readily lists her classic “four combo order” of takeaway favorites, showcasing the enduring appeal of these dishes.
More Than Just Takeaway: Evolving British Chinese Cuisine
It’s crucial to move beyond the perception of British Chinese food as solely defined by takeaway menus. These restaurants have historically served as vital community hubs, as Angela Hui recounts in her book Takeaway: stories from a childhood behind the counter, describing her family’s rural Wales takeaway as a gathering place for locals. For many in Britain, Chinese takeaway evokes strong feelings of nostalgia and community connection.
However, there’s a risk of “museum-ifying” British Chinese food, as Jenny Lau, founder of Celestial Peach, warns. Treating it as a static artifact within British culture overlooks its continuous evolution and the ongoing creativity of each generation of cooks. It also risks limiting the understanding of British Chinese identity, reducing it solely to takeaway cuisine.
Historically, many Chinese restaurants and takeaways in the UK would cater to non-Chinese palates (Credit: geogphotos/Alamy)
Maria Lo, who runs Dumpling Den supper club in Hastings, shares an anecdote of being asked as a child if she ate Bang Bang Chicken every day, a dish she was unfamiliar with. This highlights the sometimes-limited perception of Chinese food. Lo’s work now focuses on broadening the understanding of Chinese-ness within her community, ensuring her son can connect with his heritage in diverse and multifaceted ways.
Regional Diversity and New Influences
The exciting reality of British Chinese food today is its expanding diversity. Jason Li, of Dreams of Shanghai supper club, has witnessed this evolution firsthand since arriving in the UK in 1993. He notes the shift from predominantly Cantonese cuisine to the rise of Sichuan food and now the increasing presence of diverse regional Chinese cuisines, catering to new waves of Chinese migrants, including students. His supper club attracts a diverse clientele, many with connections to China and a sophisticated understanding of its culinary landscape.
British Chinese Chefs and the Future
Furthermore, a new generation of British Chinese cooks are forging their own culinary paths, incorporating their identities and diverse influences. John Li’s new restaurant, Sichuan Fry, exemplifies this, blending his Hakka and Cantonese heritage with Sichuan flavors and even fried chicken burgers. He emphasizes taking inspiration from diverse culinary loves, mirroring how early Chinese takeaways drew from various regional Chinese and Asian influences. Maria Lo’s Dumpling Den similarly embodies this fusion, combining her Cantonese heritage with locally sourced British ingredients and a modern approach, hosting pop-ups in venues like natural wine shops.
Immigrant Chinese cooks have adapted their dishes to meet a British palate (Credit: Delphotos/Alamy)
Looking ahead, Jenny Lau advocates for showcasing even greater regional Chinese diversity, including cuisines from Indo-Chinese, Mauritius Chinese, and Thai Chinese traditions. She proposes viewing British Chinese food itself as a regional Chinese cuisine, a unique and evolving branch within the broader Chinese culinary tree.
Comfort Food and Cultural Significance
The adaptability of Chinese food to its environment is a long-standing tradition, a testament to the dynamism of the culture. Jeremy Pang emphasizes that “Adaptability is at the core of our Chinese culture.” He marvels at the current culinary landscape, from Michelin-starred restaurants like A. Wong to specialized noodle shops like Lanzhou Noodle Bar, which transport him back to the diners of Hong Kong.
The vastness of what British Chinese food is, and can be, in the UK is rapidly expanding (Credit: Nathaniel Noir/Alamy)
Ultimately, the TikTok debates miss a crucial element: the human stories behind the food. These beloved dishes are creations of people, often families, and deeply intertwined with personal histories. John Li reflects on the family closeness fostered by their restaurant, appreciating the opportunity to work alongside his parents and siblings. British Chinese food, therefore, is more than just a cuisine; it’s a story of immigration, adaptation, community, and family, continuously evolving and enriching the British culinary landscape.
Peking Mandarin Pork Recipe (by Jeremy Pang – recipe section retained as in original article)
Jeremy Pang’s Peking Mandarin Pork (Credit: Jeremy Pang)
Ingredients: (as in original article)
For the marinated pork:
- 2 pork chops or pork shoulder steaks
- 1 tbsp Shaoxing rice wine (can substitute dry sherry)
- 1 tsp sesame oil
- ½ tsp salt
- ½ tsp Chinese five spice
- ¼ tsp sugar
- 4 tbsp corn flour
For the sauce:
- 100ml (3½oz) chicken stock
- 100ml (3½oz) fresh orange juice
- 1 tbsp rice vinegar
- 1 tbsp plum sauce (can substitute ketchup)
- 1 tbsp light soy sauce
- ½ tbsp orange marmalade
- 1 tsp dark soy sauce
To finish the dish:
- ½ thumb-sized piece of ginger, peeled and roughly chopped
- 2 garlic cloves, roughly chopped
- 1 spring onion, cut into 2cm (¾in) chunks
- 3 star anise
- 1 small cinnamon stick
- vegetable oil, for deep-frying
- handful of coriander leaves, to garnish
Method: (as in original article)
Step 1
Carefully using the back of a knife or cleaver, bash the pork chops or steaks to tenderise the meat, then cut into 3-4cm (1¼-1½ in) pieces and place in a mixing bowl. Massage the remaining marinade ingredients into the pork, taking care to add in the corn flour at the very end; mix well.
Step 2
Mix the sauce ingredients together in a small bowl.
Step 3
In a wok, build your wok clock (mise en place): Start by placing the marinated pork at 12 o’clock , followed by the ginger, garlic and spring onion, star anise and cinnamon stick, and lastly the bowl of sauce.
Step 4
Half-fill (no more) your wok with vegetable oil and heat to 180C (350F). Test the temperature of your oil by placing the tip of a wooden implement, such as a skewer or wooden chopstick, into the oil. If the wood starts to fizz after a second or so, the oil has reached this temperature. Carefully add half the pork and deep-fry for 4 to 5 minutes, or until golden brown. Transfer the pork to a plate lined with kitchen paper. Repeat to fry the remaining pork and transfer to the plate lined with kitchen paper. If using your wok for deep-frying, very carefully pour the hot oil into a heatproof bowl to cool and give your wok a quick wipe with kitchen paper.
Step 5
Place the wok back on the hob and heat ½ tbsp of vegetable oil until smoking hot. Add the ginger, garlic and spring onion to the wok and stir-fry for 30–60 seconds before adding the star anise and cinnamon stick. Add the sauce to the wok and bring to a vigorous boil. Once bubbling rapidly, add the fried pieces of pork into the sauce and vigorously boil for a further 1-2 minutes. Garnish with coriander and serve.
Jeremy Pang’s “Wok Clock” (Credit: Jeremy Pang)
