After whispers and local buzz, the Yellow Deli arrived in Ithaca, sparking curiosity. My initial visit left me intrigued, but I needed to experience it fully operational to truly gauge its offerings. So, on a recent Sunday, I ventured back to properly review the Deli Food at this unique establishment.
The Yellow Deli is not Ithaca’s first encounter with the Twelve Tribes community. For almost two decades, they’ve had a presence, previously running the Maté Factor café. This group has faced controversy and boycotts due to the leader Eugene Spriggs’s hateful ideologies and past issues including child labor law violations that led to the closure of the Maté Factor in 2018. However, setting aside these complex issues, my focus was solely on assessing the Yellow Deli’s food with an unbiased perspective.
Arriving precisely at their noon opening on Sunday, I found a small group already waiting. The atmosphere was peaceful, a stark contrast to the bustling street outside. Inside, a welcoming hostess promptly seated us near the entrance. Above our table, a quote, “Let justice roll down like waters and righteousness like a mighty stream,” from Amos 5:24, also famously quoted in Martin Luther King Jr.’s “I Have a Dream” speech, caught my eye.
The background music created a distinctive, if slightly unusual, ambiance. It sounded like Gaelic or Celtic folk music, intended to be cheerful and inviting. However, the flute and violin melodies evoked a feeling of being in a utopian community, which might not be everyone’s ideal deli vibe.
We were presented with beautifully handcrafted, laminated menus, showcasing artistic detail. The menu was extensive, featuring a wide array of sandwiches, alongside options like fruit salad and chili. What immediately stood out was the incredible affordability. Sandwiches, complete with chips and a pickle, started at just $8.50, with minimal extra charges for add-ons. This is noticeably more budget-friendly than Shortstop Deli, a nearby competitor.
I opted for their recommended lemon-lime yerba mate and a turkey sandwich on gluten-free bread. As someone with celiac disease, I was impressed by their gluten-free bread option – a rarity in many Cornell-area cafes. While ordering, I chatted with Simchah Williams, our waitress, and Marcel Campbell, another staff member, to understand the Yellow Deli’s operational model, particularly how they maintained such low prices for their deli food.
Campbell explained their cost-saving approach: “We try to buy local when possible, but we also grow a lot of our own ingredients, including spelt flour. When we run out of our homegrown supplies, we prioritize local sourcing.”
This explained their ability to offer such affordable prices. Most Yellow Deli staff are members of the Twelve Tribes, and seeing the low prices, I hoped they were ensuring fair wages for their workers.
I was also curious about the intended purpose of the space itself. Everything in the deli – from the music to the lighting and the staff’s warm smiles – seemed deliberate. What message were they trying to convey?
“We created this deli for Ithaca, for the people who live here. We want it to be a safe haven for anyone seeking refuge.”
Shortly after our conversation, our food and drinks arrived quickly. I first tasted the yerba mate. The lime flavor was intensely refreshing, with a distinct yerba mate tang that lingered pleasantly. The quality was evident, unsurprising given the Twelve Tribes’ history with the Mate Factory.
Next, I turned to the turkey sandwich. The presentation was simple, a sandwich accompanied by kettle chips and a pickle. The first bite was delicious – melted cheese combined with fresh turkey created a savory, satisfying flavor. The gluten-free bread was acceptable, and the fresh turkey and vegetables made for a genuinely good sandwich. The chips were clearly from a Cape Cod Kettle Chips bag, but the quality of the sandwich more than compensated. Overall, the meal was filling and affordable, costing around $13. The service from Simchah was friendly and attentive.
Paying was straightforward; I simply paid at the counter. As we were leaving, a man who had been sitting nearby waved us over. He introduced himself as Patrick and asked if we were journalists, eager to share his Yellow Deli experience.
“I’ve been coming to this place for years, and I’ve seen them treat everyone equally, from the mayor of Ithaca to someone who is homeless. I drive two hours every Sunday just to come here.”
Patrick’s “years” likely included the time of the Mate Factor. While he might have been associated with the Twelve Tribes from another location, his enthusiastic customer testimonial was compelling – someone who is a dedicated, repeat customer of the Yellow Deli’s offerings.
Yellow Deli clearly aims to attract Ithaca residents and Cornell students. They present their deli as a welcoming, safe environment for all. Regardless of the controversies surrounding the Twelve Tribes, they demonstrably know how to prepare good food. Whether that will be enough for long-term success remains to be seen, but for now, the deli food experience is certainly worth exploring.
