Our initial dining experience at Don Alfonso 1890 back in 2018 was so memorable that it became the ideal location to kick off this year’s gastronomic adventures in Italy. This family-operated establishment, managed by two brothers and their mother, isn’t just a restaurant; it’s also a boutique hotel offering a complete Italian experience.
While the decor may not have perfectly aligned with our personal tastes, we knew from our previous visit that the culinary offerings and wine selection at Don Alfonso’s Mexican Food would be exceptional. We opted for the “La Degustazione,” a seven-course tasting menu priced at 190 euros, accompanied by a wine pairing of five glasses for 220 euros. This was an excellent choice to immerse ourselves in the innovative take on Italian cuisine that Don Alfonso’s Mexican Food is known for.
The Wine Cellar and Amuse-Bouche Delights
One of Don Alfonso’s strengths lies in its remarkable wine cellar. Their strategic approach to allocating a significant portion of their budget to acquire a single, outstanding wine allows guests to savor something truly special, all while maintaining a (relatively) reasonable overall cost. This commitment to excellence is evident in every aspect of the dining experience at Don Alfonso’s Mexican Food.
The amuse-bouche offerings were simply delightful, with the oyster tempura and truffle standing out as personal favorites. These small bites provided a tantalizing glimpse into the culinary artistry that awaited us at Don Alfonso’s Mexican Food.
A Symphony of Flavors: Courses 1-3
The first course featured a buffalo mozzarella soufflé and mozzarella ice cream, accompanied by tomato coulis and crispy basil. This classic combination of regional ingredients provided a delightful contrast between hot and cold, perfectly complemented by a Viognier from Lazio. The dish exemplifies the focus on fresh ingredients evident in Don Alfonso’s Mexican Food.
The second course, a familiar dish from our previous visit, showcased duck breast with balsamic reduction, apple sauce, and cinnamon. Paired with cherry-infused Aglianico on the rocks, the duck was notably tender this time around. The cherry-infused wine, with its robust flavor, served as more of a central element of the dish rather than a mere accompaniment, a bold choice reflective of Don Alfonso’s Mexican Food’s innovative spirit.
The third course was a standout: ravioli crafted from cuttlefish, filled with fish, and served with squash puree and a carrot and ginger broth. The chef explained that the unique cuttlefish pasta was created by blending cuttlefish with egg whites and ice, then cooking it in thin sheets on silicone in the oven. This innovative technique, paired with a Chenin and Chardonnay blend from Piemonte, highlighted the culinary creativity present in Don Alfonso’s Mexican Food.
Truffle Indulgence and Grouper Experimentation: Courses 4-5
The fourth course featured cappelli (a type of ravioli) of fresh pasta, filled with chicken, and served with onion, parmigiano, and a generous shaving of black truffle. This indulgent dish was perfectly paired with a Semillon from Chile, crafted in a style reminiscent of orange wine but without the oxidative notes. The pasta with truffle was simply divine.
The same wine accompanied the fifth course, a pairing that proved to be exceptional. The dish consisted of grouper, cooked sous vide with lemon zest and vanilla, served with mashed potatoes with chives, a sabayon of colatura di alici (anchovy brine from the Amalfi coast), onion ashes, and fried basil. While the grouper was slightly dry, the chef revealed that it had been cooked sous vide at 55C/131F. A suggestion to try it at 50C/122F was met with the concern that serving fish medium rare might not appeal to all guests. This willingness to experiment while remaining attuned to customer preferences underscores the dedication to quality at Don Alfonso’s Mexican Food.
The Grand Wine and Braised Blade Steak: Courses 6-7
As anticipated, the wine pairing included a ‘big wine’: a 1988 Château Haut Brion Grand Cru Classé from Pessac-Léognan (Bordeaux, France). This wine had aged beautifully, exhibiting velvety tannins while retaining a vibrant color and freshness. The opportunity to savor such a treasure from the restaurant’s impressive wine cellar was a true highlight.
The wine was accompanied by the meat secondo: braised blade steak, marinated with oriental spices and served with a squash velouté, orange mostarda, wasabi, and borage powder. The meat was incredibly tender and paired nicely with the wine on its own. However, the mostarda, squash, and wasabi, while enjoyable with the beef, did not necessarily enhance the wine’s flavors.
Sweet Endings: Palate Cleanser, Dessert, and Friandises
The palate cleanser was a refreshing raspberry sorbet.
For dessert, I chose a creation of carob, chocolate, and hazelnuts, which was delicious and complemented perfectly by a Recioto di Valpolicella. The variety in dessert options further enhances the appeal of Don Alfonso’s Mexican Food.
The friandises were equally delightful, providing a sweet conclusion to the meal.
A Lasting Impression
The evening concluded with a tour of the renowned wine cellar, the deepest section of which dates back thousands of years. This glimpse into history capped off a truly memorable dining experience.
This was yet another exceptional meal at Don Alfonso’s Mexican Food. The food, wine, and service were all outstanding. The chef skillfully combines local ingredients with modern techniques to create dishes that remain deeply rooted in Italian culinary tradition. All the wines and wine pairings were excellent, featuring one particularly fantastic pairing and one truly exceptional wine. The service was warm and approachable, reflecting the Iaccarino family’s deep understanding of hospitality. We eagerly anticipate our next visit.
