People often ask about my favorite type of cooking, and my quick answer is always, “Ethnic food, mainly.” This usually leads to the question, “What exactly do you mean by ethnic food?” My answer is generally something like, “It’s cuisine from anywhere that’s not where you are right now. For someone on another continent, a burger and fries could definitely be considered ethnic food.” So, taking a cue from Einstein, it’s all relative.
Some people dislike the term “ethnic food,” preferring “world food” or “international food.” Personally, I’m fine with all of these. My dictionary defines “ethnic” as “characteristic of a people sharing a common and distinctive culture, religion, language, or the like.” This definition makes sense to me. My interest extends beyond just the food; I’m equally fascinated by the languages, music, and cultures of people around the globe.
It’s important to note that I strongly believe world or international cuisine should never be seen as just “cheap eats.” I’ve eaten at many ethnic restaurants where the skill and creativity (not to mention the quality of ingredients) in the dishes easily justified higher prices, just like you’d expect at a fancy “upscale” place. The bill might be a bit more than usual, but in my view, restaurants that passionately share their culinary heritage with those eager to learn about their food and culture deserve high praise.
Here are some photos of ethnic dishes I’ve made, perfected, or even invented.
China
Shu Mai
My friend Zarela Martinez, a famous TV chef, cookbook author, and owner of the wonderful (but sadly now closed) restaurant, Zarela, invited me to a potluck dinner. Knowing she’s an amazing Mexican chef, I thought her guests might bring Latin-inspired dishes too – tough competition! So, with no food restrictions, I decided to play it safe with Chinese dumplings. I’m happy to say they were a big success!
Bā Bao Cài (Eight Treasure Vegetables)
One of my favorite dishes to prepare for Chinese New Year is Bā Bao Cài (Eight Treasure Vegetables) 八宝菜. To help you identify the ingredients, the potato-like slice is arrowhead (sometimes called Chinese arrowroot), easy to find in Chinatown around this time of year. Behind it is gluten (seitan) – perfect for soaking up sauce. There’s also a bean curd knot – you can find these fresh, frozen, or dried, and they’re very cute. Near the chopsticks is a piece of sweet and spicy prepared bean curd. You’ll also spot peanuts, and less obviously in this photo, dried lily buds, a must-have in Moo Shu Pork, dried bean curd skin, smoked tofu, dried shiitake mushrooms, and wood ear (black fungus). Trust me, they’re all in there! It’s almost like a culinary treasure hunt. The savory sauce is packed with seasonings, too many to list. (Did you think I’d give away my secret recipe? 😉)
So, that’s my take on Eight Treasure Vegetables. Oh, wait. That’s actually ten treasures, not eight. I guess I made Shí Bao Cài!
恭喜發財!
Xi’an Style Hand Pulled Noodles with Spicy Cumin Lamb
My version of Xi’an Style Hand Pulled Noodles with Spicy Cumin Lamb.
Sichuan Style Lamb Kidneys
Fresh lamb kidneys from the farmers’ market, stir-fried with dried red chilies, Sichuan peppercorns, and cumin. Accompanied by red bell pepper, fresh green chilies, snow peas, scallions, and onion with sesame oil and other seasonings.
Smoked Pork with Garlic Leaf
My take on Legend of Taste’s delicious Smoked Pork with Garlic Leaf.
Reunion Dinner Duck Soup
The Chinese celebration of the Lunar New Year, also known as Spring Festival, is an amazing two-week event in January or February, a feast for the soul filled with more symbolism than you can imagine.
One of the things I love most about this holiday is the wordplay and homophones that influence the traditional food choices, along with their colors and shapes. For Lunar New Year’s Eve (“Reunion Dinner”), I made a duck soup with shiitake mushrooms, daikon, flowering chives, bean leaf, Shanghai bok choy, scallions, cilantro, dried red chili pepper, and lots of seasonings. The main focus is on the long noodles, which represent wishes for a long life.
Longevity Noodle Stir-Fry
More home cooking! Recently, I shared some homemade soup I made for Chinese New Year with long noodles, traditionally symbolizing long life. I also stir-fried those noodles, and it turned out wonderfully delicious. I added some lap cheong (Chinese sausage) for protein (and fat, I know!), but the rest of the ingredients were either leftover vegetables from the soup or dried/preserved items I always have on hand.
[1] If you’re curious, you can play “Where’s Waldo” in the bowl with these ingredients: Shanghai bok choy, bean leaf, shiitake mushrooms, black fungus (wood ear fungus), huang hua (dried lily flowers), ya cai (Yibin preserved mustard greens), scallions, flowering chives, cilantro, dried red chilies, peanuts, and sesame seeds.
[2] The wok in action (pardon the pun 😉).
恭禧發財! Gōng xǐ fā cái!
Stir Fried Arrowhead
Those pieces that look a bit like potatoes are Chinese arrowhead (not arrowroot), an aquatic tuber traditionally cooked around Lunar New Year. I wanted to make something special with them for a New Year celebration, but I only had time for a simple stir-fry with char shu, dried shiitake mushrooms, cloud ears, peanuts, scallions, cumin, and four types of hot peppers (fresh green, dried red, Sichuan black, and ground white – keeping it festive!).
Yu Choy Stir Fry
A simple stir-fry with yu choy (one of the many kinds of Chinese greens), fresh bamboo shoot (so much better than canned!), shiitake mushrooms, and snow peas in oyster sauce, plus a few more seasonings. But I always need a little heat: a bit of spicy green pepper never hurts!
Hey, I just realized this is a vegetarian dish! My vegetarian friends will be happy!
Oh, wait. Oyster sauce. Never mind. 😕
Spicy Sichuan Lamb and Dumplings
More Dumplings and Spicy Sichuan Lamb.
Japan
Halloween Futomaki
Futomaki in an orange and black costume for Halloween!
Japanese Potato Salad
More of my Japanese home cooking 🇯🇵 by way of Brooklyn 🇺🇸!
Here’s my version of Japanese potato salad. (Yes, it’s a real dish.) Its name, ポテトサラダ, is pronounced roughly “potato salada.” There is a Japanese word for potato, じゃがいも, “jagaimo,” but since the dish is quite American-influenced, the English name is more common. Texture is key: the potatoes are partly mashed but still have plenty of chunks. This works because the mashed potatoes blend into the dressing, while the chunks provide bites of pure potato.
My ingredient list is close to the traditional Japanese version: potato, carrot, cucumber, hardboiled egg, sweet onion, ham. The dressing is also fairly authentic: mayo (only Kewpie, of course!), rice wine vinegar, and neri wakarashi (Japanese mustard paste). I also add a little sweet miso paste and a few shakes of ichimi togarashi (dried Japanese red pepper) and sansho (dried Japanese green pepper peel) for a kick, and a sprinkle of shichimi (a seasoning mix of Japanese red pepper, sesame seed, orange peel, yuzu, etc.) and black sesame seeds on top. Simple, but very satisfying.
Of course, the proportions of ingredients are what make each recipe unique, so I haven’t really revealed any secrets here!
Those are Thai spicy pickled mangoes on the side for flavor and color contrast.
Makizushi
Eel, avocado, kani (crab stick), tamago (sweet egg), kampyo (dried gourd), various pickles, and more in Makizushi. The flower is made of gari (pickled ginger) and shiso leaf.
Thailand
Thai Pumpkin Soup with Coconut Milk
Thai Pumpkin Soup with Coconut Milk. If you’re curious about the garnishes (besides cilantro and coconut milk swirls), the small round bits are crispy dried peas for crunch, and the thin threads are dried shredded red pepper for visual appeal.
Thai Duck Salad
Thai Duck Salad with roast duck, Thai basil, cilantro, mint, shallots, and lemongrass, dressed with chili paste, fish sauce, sugar, and lime juice. On the side, there’s red bell pepper, snow peas, cucumber, and mango, all topped with peanuts and served over soft butter lettuce.
Penang Curry Eggplant with Jackfruit and Jackfruit Seeds
Penang Curry Eggplant with Jackfruit and Jackfruit Seeds. I got this idea when jackfruit was in season. If you buy a whole jackfruit, you can break it down yourself (though it’s quite sticky), and besides the delicious sweet fruit, you get a bonus when you roast or boil the seeds. Their flavor is mild and nutty, like a mix between baked potato and chestnut. The roasted seeds are used in this dish.
Som Tum – Green Papaya Salad
Som Tum – Green Papaya Salad. Spicy, sweet, salty, sour. That pretty much sums it up.
Cambodia
Chrouk Metae Paik Kouk (Spicy Jicama Slaw)
Chrouk Metae Paik Kouk (Spicy Jicama Slaw).
Saich Ko Chrawkak (Grilled Beef on a Stick)
Saich Ko Chrawkak (Grilled Beef on a Stick).
Indonesia
Mie Goreng – Indonesian Fried Noodles
Mie Goreng – Indonesian Fried Noodles. The wonderful white crisps on the right are shrimp-flavored Indonesian krupuk (you might see kerupuk), and they are truly addictive.
Indonesian Fried Chicken
Indonesian Fried Chicken with Nasi Goreng (Indonesian fried rice) on the side.
India
Chana Masala with Paratha and Basmati Rice
Chana Masala with homemade Paratha (from scratch!) and basmati rice.
Gajjar Halwa and Kesar Badam Burfi
Gajjar Halwa and Kesar Badam Burfi. I can’t keep this secret any longer. I’m addicted to mithai. Mithai are Indian sweets, and since I can never get enough, I had to learn to make some myself. Gajjar Halwa is carrot-based, and Kesar Badam Burfi is rich and fragrant with saffron and almonds. Read about my happy addiction here.
Iran
Fesenjan
Fesenjan. In Iran, a rich stew (khoresh) is common at dinner. This Persian dish is often made with chicken, sometimes duck like this version. The other two key ingredients are walnuts and pomegranates. My recipe uses pomegranate molasses, though I’ve seen pomegranate juice used as well. Served with saffron rice.
(And that’s my grandmother’s serving dish, if you were wondering.)
Tahdig
Tahdig. This saffron rice dish is all about the crispy layer that forms at the bottom of the pot – Persia’s answer to Spain’s socarrat or China’s guōbā.
Egypt
Koshary
Koshary. I made this Egyptian comfort food for a friend’s birthday. Layers of caramelized onions, rice, vermicelli, black beluga lentils, elbow macaroni (yes, elbow macaroni!), chickpeas, and tomato sauce – seasoned with wonderful spices (baharat and others) and piled into a pyramid.
Mezze Platter
The usual suspects accompanied the feast… Muhammara (a red bell pepper and walnut dip), hummus, and baba ganoush.
Middle East
Shakshuka
Shakshuka.
Eastern Europe
Halušky
Halušky.
Ukraine
Borscht
Borscht. Home cooking from last summer – a refreshing, cold beet soup which, according to Wikipedia, is the national dish of Ukraine.
Blintzes
Blintzes. Homemade blintzes topped with fresh blueberries, blueberry syrup, and sour cream – note the blue and yellow theme.
Banush
Banush. Banush is a cornmeal porridge made with sour cream instead of water. It’s usually served with a strong sheep’s milk cheese like bryndza crumbled on top and bits of bacon or salo. I’ve served it with grilled Eastern European sausage on a bed of caramelized onions with sour cream on the side.
Kutia
Kutia. Best described as a sweet porridge, it’s sweetened with honey and raisins, chewy from wheat berries, crunchy from nuts, and distinctively flavorful from poppy seeds. This is my version with toasted almonds (though walnuts are traditional) and dried apricots. It’s an essential dish for the family feast on Eastern Orthodox Christmas Eve in Ukraine.
Albania
Albanian Sudzuk Soup
Albanian Sudzuk Soup. Here’s another experiment done with my usual enthusiasm and no recipe: Albanian Sudzuk Soup. (Though they probably don’t really make this in Albania. But who knows….) Hot Albanian sudzuk (many spellings for sujuk!), a dry, spicy sausage, was the base for this soup. Leeks and potatoes were prominent, along with dried mushrooms and some herbs and spices, especially dill. I added a little heavy cream at the end to make it richer.
France
Basa Meunière
Basa Meunière, two versions. Slightly French. (Read the full story here!) I was experimenting with truffle fries as a side. Steamed veggies on the side, because how much fried food can you eat? (Don’t answer that!)
Served with some incredible simply roasted honeynut squash. (I praised it in my Winter Squash Deep Dive series here.)
Italy
Lasagna
Lasagna.
Insalata di Frutti di Mare (Seafood Salad)
Insalata di Frutti di Mare (aka Insalata di Mare). The combination of shrimp, calamari (squid), polipetti (baby octopus), and scungilli (conch), plus crunchy and zesty vegetables, is enhanced by a dressing of EVOO, lemon juice, and herbs.
Portugal & Brazil
Kale and Chouriço Soup
Kale and Chouriço Soup.
Morocco
Rabbit Tagine with Persimmons, Loquats, and Chestnuts
Rabbit Tagine with Persimmons, Loquats, and Chestnuts. I wanted to create something unique for my friend Gael Greene’s birthday potluck, so I made Rabbit Tagine with Persimmons, Loquats, and Chestnuts. (I don’t think anyone has tried this combination before.) “Tagine” refers to both the cooking pot and the stew cooked in it. The dish is shown before garnishing and without the saffron couscous with currants and argan oil that went with it. I wish I had grabbed some leftovers before everyone else did!
West Africa
Palmnut Cream Stew and Thiakry
Palmnut Cream Stew and Thiakry. I’ve been exploring West African cuisine lately. Here’s my version of Palmnut Cream Stew with chicken, smoked dried fish, squash, plantain, tomato, and kale. That’s fufu (pounded yam) on the side. Turnip Greens with Peanut (not shown) completed the meal.
Staying with the West African theme, dessert was Thiakry, a sweet dish made of millet. My version includes swirls of baobab with peanut crème (which is also the base for another dessert called Ngalakh).
West African Fish Soup
West African Fish Soup. Another venture into West African cooking, this time a fish and yam soup. Fish (fresh red snapper, stockfish, smoked bonga fish, dried prawns, crayfish powder), two kinds of yam, potato leaf, water leaf, and a mix of spices. Fufu, plantain this time, is ready to serve.
Groundnut Stew
Groundnut Stew. Also known as peanut stew, maafe, sauce d’arachide, and other names depending on the country; pounded cocoyam (aka malanga) on the side.
Jollof Rice
Jollof Rice. There’s a playful rivalry between Ghanaian and Nigerian recipes for this popular dish, and I’m not getting involved! This one is closer to a Ghanaian version, using jasmine rice instead of the long-grain rice used in Nigerian kitchens. It has a base of tomatoes, onion, green peppers, ginger, and garlic, and the seasoning I used this time (it varies) includes Maggi cubes, Jamaican curry powder, star anise, smoked paprika, soumbala, pepper soup spice blend, and a touch of shito (hot pepper sauce), among others. That’s a green, yellow, and orange Scotch bonnet pepper in the corner and a smoked turkey tail on the side.
Kelewele
Kelewele. Spicy, fried ripe plantains with a sprinkle of peanuts for crunch. Every West African country has its own version, of course!
South Africa
Chicken Livers Peri Peri with Geelrys
Chicken Livers Peri Peri, a spicy dish brought by the Portuguese during colonial times. On the side is Geelrys, yellow rice with raisins.
Mexico
Oaxacan Mole with Chicken
Oaxacan Mole with Chicken. Mexican rice and a black bean and corn mix on the side.
The Greater Antilles
Pernil
Pernil. The Greater Antilles are the larger islands in the Caribbean Sea, including Cuba, Puerto Rico, and the Dominican Republic. Their cuisines differ, but this dish is common to all – with slight variations, of course! Here’s my version of this delicious roast pork, served with arroz con gandules (the traditional rice and pigeon peas) and…
Maduros
…Maduros – fried ultra-ripe plantains.
Jamaica
Ackee & Saltfish
Ackee & Saltfish. Also part of the Greater Antilles, Jamaica can claim this as its national dish.
Colombia
¡Arepas!
¡Arepas! Cheesy, corny goodness! Arepa con Choclo with fresh grilled sweet corn, quesillo (Mexican string cheese), scallion, jalapeño, cilantro macho, pápalo, (two amazing fresh herbs), and cotija (grated Mexican cow’s milk cheese).
Experiments (Just Messing Around)
Chinese-Italian Fusion
Chinese-Italian Inspiration. I don’t slavishly follow recipes; I prefer to innovate rather than just copy. (That way, no one can complain if I didn’t “get it right”. 😉) I was once asked where I get my inspiration, so here’s the story of how this dish came to be.
Sweden (via IKEA)
Sweden (by way of IKEA). Boiled potato rounds topped with pastej lax (a salmon spread), sour cream, tångkorn (vegan seaweed caviar), and dill, on a bed of baby arugula with balsamic vinaigrette – showing that this former jazz pianist can also be classical sometimes.
Croatian Smoked Pork Crêpes
Croatian Smoked Pork Crêpes. I got some Croatian smoked pork but wasn’t sure what to make with it. I simmered it until tender, shredded it, sautéed it with onion, garlic, tomato and pepper pastes, sumac, coriander seed, fennel pollen, fresh dill, and more. But then what? It turned out to be a perfect filling for crêpes!
Sautéed Skate
Sautéed Skate. Skate with brown butter, black garlic, shallots, lemongrass, chives, and cilantro, served with braised endive with sun-dried tomatoes in a balsamic reduction.
