Imagine a place where culinary innovation knows no bounds, and every corner reveals a new, delectable surprise. Welcome to the world of Fancy Foods, a realm of gourmet delights that redefines our perception of eating. As a food expert from foods.edu.vn, I recently embarked on a journey through a major fancy food exhibition, and what I discovered was a captivating landscape of flavors, trends, and the relentless pursuit of culinary excellence. This isn’t just about luxury; it’s about the artistry, creativity, and passion that drive the specialty food industry.
My adventure began somewhat serendipitously. Visiting San Francisco a couple of years ago, I found myself near the Moscone Center, where vibrant signs announced the “Fancy Food Winter Show.” Intrigued by the bustling activity of vendors unloading pallets of enticing snacks, I decided to explore. A bit of improvisation and a friendly press representative later, I was immersed in a sprawling trade show floor, an overwhelming yet exhilarating experience of gourmet discovery.
The Fancy Food Show, a bi-annual event alternating between San Francisco in winter and New York in summer, is a spectacle to behold. Picture vast halls transformed into a mesmerizing grid of booths, each showcasing a unique specialty food item or brand, all offering generous samples. It’s like stepping into a hyper-focused Costco, but exclusively dedicated to the sample stations – and these aren’t just any samples. These are gourmet samples, miniature portions of culinary artistry. Think delicate slices of Iberian charcuterie, succulent bites of Maine lobster, exquisite cubes of Japanese Wagyu beef, and a global assortment of artisan chocolates and cheeses, all vying for your palate’s attention. I was immediately offered a refreshing calamansi juice cocktail, a citrusy revelation that elevated lemonade to a whole new level. The sheer variety was staggering: quinoa crackers, quinoa pasta, pasta crackers – the innovation was endless. Even with an insatiable appetite, it would be physically impossible to taste everything before succumbing to delightful food fatigue.
This vibrant ecosystem is where trends are born and evolve, dictating what “fancy foods” will grace the shelves of upscale bodegas and gourmet stores. It’s a constant cycle of culinary innovation, where one trend emerges, flourishes, and eventually makes way for the next wave of exciting flavors and food concepts.
The Summer Fancy Food Show I attended in New York City was even grander in scale. Over three days, more than 2,500 specialty food vendors occupied the massive 840,000-square-foot Javits Center. Despite my journalistic intentions, the sheer volume of offerings made it impossible to sample everything. I navigated the aisles, drawn by eye-catching packaging, appealing product representatives, and, admittedly, the allure of pre-packaged samples. In a typical grocery store, you might casually overlook a milk-free caramel. Here, at the Fancy Food Show, you are confronted with the passion and dedication poured into each product. The experience highlights the dedication and often unseen effort behind every “fancy food” item.
:no_upscale()/cdn.vox-cdn.com/uploads/chorus_asset/file/6779323/IMG_0821-2.0.jpg)
Defining “Fancy”: What Makes Food Gourmet?
The terms “fancy” and “specialty” food are often used interchangeably, yet defining them precisely can be elusive. The Specialty Food Association, the organizer of the Fancy Food Show, aims to “define and defend the ideals that ‘specialty foods’ uphold,” but their official “vision” page curiously avoids a concrete definition. It seems “specialty foods” encompass anything beyond staple items – but even bread and milk can be elevated to “fancy” status. Perhaps “fancy” itself is the most fitting descriptor. In essence, specialty food operates like an exclusive club, where the price tag itself contributes to the perception of fanciness. A modest 10×10 booth at the show can cost around $3,500, while a more prominent 500-square-foot space can reach $17,000. Ultimately, a product becomes “specialty” when its creators deem it so, and price it accordingly.
For small to medium-sized food companies, the Fancy Food Show is a crucial platform, a high-stakes audition for broader recognition. Capturing the attention of a key distributor can be transformative, potentially leading to nationwide placement on shelves like Whole Foods Market. This show is the engine that propels gourmet cookies into local bodegas and dictates the ebb and flow of food trends.
While media attention is a secondary benefit, the primary goals are distribution deals and networking. My press badge, identifying me with “EATER,” often prompted curious glances. I found myself clarifying, “The website, not the occupation,” to avoid any misinterpretations.
At the Lucero olive oil booth, Kristin Cook, the marketing manager, noticed my lingering interest in their sample envelopes and offered me one. Faced with a multitude of olive oils, I admitted my struggle to differentiate them. Kristin explained that Lucero is more than just oil; the Crane family, who runs the company, cultivates olives in Corning, California, a tradition spanning nearly 70 years.
:no_upscale()/cdn.vox-cdn.com/uploads/chorus_asset/file/6779331/IMG_0581-2.0.jpg)
The sample, served on a tiny paper spoon, was a revelation – the best olive oil I had ever tasted. Before that moment, I hadn’t grasped the vast spectrum of quality within olive oils. Lucero’s oil was so exceptional, it made even the José Andrés-endorsed brand, also present at the show, seem bland in comparison. Kristin shared that their Ascolano olive oil was “huge in Japan,” having won gold medals at the Olive Japan International Extra Virgin Olive Oil Competition. Since then, Japan has been a major importer of this single olive oil variety.
Stroopwafels and Gluten-Free Innovations: A Taste of Competition
Booth placement at the show can sometimes create unintentional drama. Stroopwafels, the beloved Dutch cookie, are a prominent category at the Fancy Food Show. An employee from Daelmans Stroopwafels, a century-old Dutch bakery and leading stroopwafel producer, explained how their larger cookies are best enjoyed warmed over a hot cup of coffee, melting the caramel filling. Despite being new to the American market, Daelmans’ established scale provides a significant advantage over emerging competitors.
Moments after speaking with Daelmans, and pocketing samples of their stroopwafels, I encountered the Swoffle booth. A Forbes article showcased the father-daughter team behind this gluten-free stroopwafel venture. Julia Paino, the daughter, offered me a sample. Knowing I had just spent time at the Daelmans booth, it felt almost obligatory to try Swoffle. I did.
:no_upscale()/cdn.vox-cdn.com/uploads/chorus_asset/file/6779341/IMG_0292-2.0.jpg)
Display vs. Demand: The Sample Dilemma
A constant tension exists at the show: the need to create appealing displays versus the risk of attendees taking excessive amounts of inventory. Some booths displayed signs like “FOR DISPLAY” or “NOT SAMPLES.” While theft might seem possible, the sheer volume and visibility generally deter blatant pilfering. However, LaCroix sparkling water’s fully stocked, unlocked refrigerators blurred the lines between display and invitation, almost feeling like “entrapment.”
Fage Greek yogurt, in contrast, embraced generosity. Their expansive display resembled an ice cream parlor, servers handing out full-sized yogurts to eager attendees. Greek yogurt has become mainstream, and Fage, holding a quarter of the US market, is projected to reach a billion dollars in annual US sales. The Fancy Food Show can feel like a science fair, where established brands with larger budgets command more prominent space. The large, neon-blue Fage booth seemed almost assertive. One might wonder if such dominance could overshadow smaller yogurt brands and non-dairy alternatives in the competitive landscape of the show.
Atanas Valev, founder of Trimona Bulgarian Yogurt, certainly believes in competition. His slogan, “Let the Greeks have their philosophers, leave the yogurt to us,” is a clear statement. Valev argues that Bulgarians have a stronger claim to yogurt heritage, citing Lactobacillus bulgaricus, a key bacterium in yogurt production, named after Bulgaria. He dismisses “Greek yogurt” as simply “strained yogurt,” lacking the protected designation of products like Scotch whisky or French Champagne.
Valev champions Bulgarian yogurt, using a culture he brought from Bulgaria 25 years prior. He clarifies his issue is with the “Greek yogurt” label, not the Greek people themselves, noting that some Greek customers have told him Trimona tastes like the yogurt they grew up with. While to me, it tasted like regular yogurt, enhanced by a fruit puree, Valev’s brand aims to offer a distinct, authentic alternative to the Greek yogurt dominance.
The Power of Labels: Organic, Paleo, and More
Labels are paramount in the fancy food world. With established categories dominated by major corporations, specialty producers often differentiate themselves by creating new categories or adding certifications to existing ones. Lindsey Frick of Feel Good Dough is passionate about organic certification. She inquired if my readers would be interested in “what’s going on with organic yeast?”
Indeed, Red Star Yeast was about to launch the first domestically produced organic yeast in America, partnering with Feel Good Dough. Previously, many “organic” leavened products utilized a loophole allowing non-organic yeast. Feel Good Dough had been importing organic yeast from Germany. The concern? “They feed non-organic yeast with GMO corn,” Frick explained. “For truly 100% organic, you must check for organic yeast.” She shared that non-organic yeast had caused her anxiety, while Feel Good Dough provided peace of mind. Red Star’s new product promised to make truly organic American breads more accessible, though its impact on Feel Good’s market advantage remained uncertain.
“Paleo” is another significant label. Hu Chocolate, a paleo chocolate bar brand, uses the slogan “Get back to human,” referencing a pre-agricultural, caveman-era diet. Defining “paleo” can be subjective. Zach Brown of Hu Chocolate explained that they use “unrefined coconut sugar” because “cane sugar, it’s not paleo.” His rationale: unrefined sugar, obtainable by cavemen, aligns with the paleo ethos. Hu Chocolate promotes “inclusivity” with their paleo bars, priced between $5.90 and $6.50, positioning them within the fancy chocolate market.
:no_upscale()/cdn.vox-cdn.com/uploads/chorus_asset/file/6779345/IMG_0277-2.0.jpg)
Bob Moore, the iconic founder of Bob’s Red Mill Natural Foods, was a prominent figure at the show. His face, familiar from supermarket shelves filled with his diverse grains and gluten-free products, has made him a specialty food icon. Dressed in his signature red jacket, cap, and white beard, he resembled the show’s Santa Claus, attracting lines of admirers throughout the event.
Brexit and Haggis Chips: International Flavors and Global Events
The show coincided with the UK’s Brexit vote. The UK section, like many other national pavilions at the show, was heavily branded to promote exports. On day one, inquiring about “Brexit” at the UK Food & Drink Exporters Association booth, I received a formal statement expressing concern about maintaining EU market access.
By day three, the tone had shifted. Irene Kerrison of the UK Trade & Investment Great British Food Unit avoided discussing Brexit directly. “We’re still a member of the European Union, so we keep working,” she stated, adopting a “keep calm and carry on” approach.
Interestingly, the UK pavilion featured shared branding for Great Britain and Northern Ireland, while the nearby Scottish section had its own distinct purple-pink branding. Despite the Scottish Nationalist Party’s post-Brexit independence considerations, the Scottish Fancy Food area already projected a sense of sovereignty. Juan-Carlos Jeffrey of Scottish Development International reassured me they were “part of the greater UK contingent,” but the show’s map depicted the Scottish booth as a separate entity. When asked about a future independent Scottish national booth, Jeffrey hinted, “You never know,” before diverting my attention to haggis-flavored potato chips.
Mackie’s of Scotland’s haggis chips were surprisingly delicious, a sophisticated barbecue flavor. They sparked my curiosity about trying actual haggis. Perhaps Scottish food exports, and haggis itself, would gain prominence post-Brexit.
New Brands on the Shelf: The Underdog Alley
The “New Brands on The Shelf” section was the most dynamic area of the Fancy Food Show. Tucked away in a corner, it featured small booths for companies and products less than a year old. Often staffed by the founders themselves, it resembled a live version of Shark Tank, with passionate entrepreneurs eager to pitch their innovative snacks and food creations.
:no_upscale()/cdn.vox-cdn.com/uploads/chorus_asset/file/6779227/IMG_1304-2.0.jpg)
Pure Genius Provisions’ brownies and blondies exemplified the “fancy food” ethos. Vegan, kosher, non-GMO, gluten-free, and “school-safe” (nut-free), their creator, Nancy Kalish, revealed their secret ingredient: 40% garbanzo beans. She usually waited until after tasters sampled them to disclose the chickpea base, eliciting surprised reactions. While I personally found them reminiscent of dystopian sci-fi food rations, Kalish claimed a “95% approval rate.”
I asked Kalish if she had tried “dessert hummus” from Delighted By, another chickpea-based treat nearby in the New Brands section. She acknowledged it, mentioning 2016 being the “International Year of the Pulse” (pulses being legumes like chickpeas). Delighted By’s dessert hummus, despite my initial skepticism, was surprisingly well-executed. Available in flavors like Brownie Batter, Snickerdoodle, Orange-Ginger, and Chocolate Chip, it tasted like a fusion of hummus and frosting. It raised the question: could hummus frosting become a mainstream delight, promoting healthier indulgence?
:no_upscale()/cdn.vox-cdn.com/uploads/chorus_asset/file/6779333/IMG_0398-2.0.jpg)
Revolution Gelato from Atlanta, a dairy-free frozen dessert made from coconuts and cashews, had won “best dairy product” at the Flavor of Georgia Annual Food Product Contest – a testament to its innovative nature. Founder Jared Olkin, inspired by Michael Pollan’s plant-based diet philosophy, aimed to create a dairy-free alternative without sacrificing taste. His slogan, “You can have it all,” embodies this compromise-free approach, catering to specific dietary needs without sacrificing indulgence.
Among the crowded field of non-dairy ice creams, I personally favored Jawea’s Horchata flavor, also coconut-based, over Revolution’s Cardamom. Horchata, based on this year’s show, seemed poised to be the next trending flavor.
Some New Brands incorporated clever gimmicks. Elephantea tea linked their brand to elephant conservation in Sri Lanka, where elephants are used for land clearing. Donating to the Sri Lanka Wildlife Conservation Society, their charitable branding seemed genuine and purposeful.
Doctor Pickle, however, presented a more perplexing charitable angle. CEO Harold Pitts, a former fireman and 9/11 first responder, aimed to support child victims of 9/11 through transcendental meditation access. His “Pickle with a Purpose” initiative was intriguing, and the pickles themselves were quite good.
Problem-solving seemed to drive a significant portion of fancy food innovation. From arsenic-free Mighty Rice to Way Better sprouted grain tortilla chips, many products addressed specific health concerns or dietary needs. Self-expression, however, wasn’t always the primary focus.
Jessica Spaulding of Harlem Chocolate Factory was an exception. Growing up with “health nut” parents, she approached chocolate with intention. After a previous chocolate startup, she returned with Harlem Chocolate Factory and three distinctive bars. “Striver’s Row,” featuring black currants and “champagne” popping candy, was inspired by Harlem Renaissance dinner parties, evoking the area’s rich cultural history and Spaulding’s personal connection to Harlem. She aimed to create chocolate as an artful eating experience, beyond just health or basic flavor.
Sofi Awards and Regional Pride
Throughout the show, golden statuettes resembling Oscars were displayed – Sofi Awards, recognizing top fancy foods in categories like “hot beverage,” “cracker,” and “jam, preserve, honey, nut butter.” Winners were pre-selected, ensuring their presence at the show. I congratulated Bradley Bennett of Pacific Pickle Works for his Sofi gold for “Brussizzle Sprouts” pickled Brussels sprouts.
Bennett, a former software professional, transitioned to “west-coast pickles” in 2011. “Brussizzle Sprouts,” like other Pacific Pickle Works products, got its name through Facebook crowdsourcing, a playful name with “pop-culture references” – though Bennett stopped short of mentioning “Snoop Dogg.”
:no_upscale()/cdn.vox-cdn.com/uploads/chorus_asset/file/6779339/IMG_0242-2.0.jpg)
Nearby, in the California regional section, was Arawak Farms, founded by Lloyd J. Vassell, another ex-techie. Vassell sold pepper sauces and spicy fruit spreads based on West Indian recipes. His newest product was his grandmother’s jerk pepper sauce, a recipe exclusively entrusted to him. His grandmother hadn’t written it down; instead, she gave him a jar, which he then reverse-engineered with a food scientist. The resulting sauce was exceptional, with a clean heat and prominent allspice notes.
Regional organization was common, alongside national and miscellaneous groupings. Thematic groupings were absent, perhaps intentionally, as sampling an entire row of peanut butters might be overwhelming. However, HomePlate Peanut Butter stood out with its baseball connection and inclusion of sugar. Founded by retired baseball players, HomePlate aimed to bridge the gap between mass-market brands like Skippy and expensive, all-natural options, targeting minor league players. Caleigh Bressler from HomePlate explained how major brands had prioritized cost-cutting, using ingredients like “rape”seed oil – an ingredient she found alarming. HomePlate aimed for a balanced, appealing peanut butter.
The Final Day Frenzy: Free Samples and Culinary Chaos
By the afternoon of the show’s final day, a palpable shift occurred. Booths, eager to avoid shipping inventory, began offering their displays for free. Taffy Town, the saltwater taffy equivalent of Jelly Belly, with flavors like chicken-and-waffle, initiated the giveaway. The scene quickly devolved into a chaotic free-for-all, a “taffy pull” of sorts. Politeness dissolved as attendees surged forward, grabbing handfuls of taffy.
:no_upscale()/cdn.vox-cdn.com/uploads/chorus_asset/file/6779247/IMG_1120-2.0.jpg)
At the Starzen International Kagoshima Prefecture beef exporter booth, a woman continued frying Wagyu samples, explaining that Kobe beef was just one type of Wagyu. She asserted Kagoshima Wagyu was superior. The “one-piece-per-person” rule vanished as attendees devoured multiple samples of what was claimed to be world-class steak.
Not every brand at the Fancy Food Show would return the following year. Success and failure are inherent, if somewhat unfortunate, aspects of this competitive environment. Consumer access to such product diversity is limited to events like this, and market success isn’t solely based on flavor. Ouzon, an ouzo-flavored soda I enjoyed the previous year, was absent, still struggling to enter the New York City market. Tate’s Cookies, however, exemplified a success story – a Southampton, New York bakery achieving national prominence despite its butter-rich recipe, fueled by regional ads.
In an ideal world, more individuals would have the opportunity to develop and share their culinary innovations, regardless of winning at the Fancy Food Show. Culinary inspiration isn’t limited to ex-financiers or software engineers, despite their apparent overrepresentation in the specialty food industry. Even niche food ideas deserve a chance to flourish. With increasing automation potentially displacing jobs, supporting diverse culinary ventures seems both economically and culturally enriching. Capitalism fosters diversity, yet market forces often stifle it, sometimes favoring celebrity endorsements over genuine innovation.
At the Bauli Authentic Italian pastries booth, a brief indication that full-size bags of mini croissants were available triggered a near-instantaneous depletion of the display. The booth staff quickly attempted to regain control, but not before attendees, embracing the “New York” mentality, walked away with armfuls of pastries.
The Fancy Food Show offers a fascinating glimpse into the dynamic world of gourmet foods, highlighting innovation, competition, and the ever-evolving landscape of culinary trends. It’s a celebration of flavor, creativity, and the passionate individuals driving the specialty food industry forward.
