Monosodium glutamate (MSG): for decades, the mere mention of these three letters could elicit a shudder, conjuring up images of “Chinese Restaurant Syndrome” and unfounded health scares. But what if this flavor enhancer, once relegated to the culinary shadows, is actually a misunderstood gem? At Food and Wine Mag, and within the broader culinary world, a compelling narrative of MSG’s redemption has been unfolding. This isn’t just about revisiting a pantry staple; it’s about understanding the science of umami, confronting culinary biases, and embracing a flavor that has been unfairly maligned. Let’s delve into the fascinating story of MSG, exploring its history, the myths that surrounded it, and its flavorful resurgence, as championed by publications like Food and Wine Mag and leading chefs worldwide.
My father, a home cook with a boundless approach to cuisine, much like the spirit of Food and Wine Mag itself, always embraced MSG. Despite his Ukrainian Jewish heritage, his cooking journey, fueled by cookbooks and newspaper recipes, spanned continents and flavors. From veal cutlets to beef stir-fries, his dishes were a testament to culinary exploration. And among our family favorites were his “pearl pork balls,” a recipe inspired by Nancy Chih Ma’s Mrs. Ma’s Chinese Cookbook but uniquely his own. These fluffy, sticky rice-coated meatballs, steamed to perfection, were subtly enhanced by a secret ingredient: MSG. This ingredient, once a common sight in American kitchens, became a point of fascination as I began to understand its controversial history and subsequent rehabilitation, a journey often mirrored in the pages of publications like Food and Wine Mag.
One ingredient that defined my father’s cooking, and sparked my curiosity, was MSG, monosodium glutamate. It’s an ingredient that has experienced a dramatic shift in public perception, from kitchen staple to culinary pariah and now, perhaps, to a quietly celebrated flavor enhancer once again. This arc of MSG’s story, marked by unfounded fears and now a growing wave of acceptance, is a story that Food and Wine Mag and other reputable food publications have been instrumental in telling.
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The story begins with Japanese scientist Kikunae Ikeda, who sought to understand the deliciousness of his wife’s miso soup. His quest led him to isolate glutamic acid, a naturally occurring amino acid abundant in seaweed, tomatoes, Parmesan, and meat. Ikeda identified this as the essence of umami, the fifth taste – savory and meaty. In 1909, he launched Ajinomoto, a company producing MSG, which quickly gained popularity in America. However, this rise was followed by a fall from grace in the 1960s, fueled by rising skepticism around food additives.
The turning point came in 1968 with a letter published in The New England Journal of Medicine by Dr. Robert Ho Man Kwok. He described experiencing a “strange syndrome” after eating at Chinese restaurants. This anecdotal account was misconstrued as scientific evidence, morphing into the infamous “Chinese Restaurant Syndrome.” The controversy escalated, culminating in a 1969 Senate hearing that further cemented MSG’s image as a dangerous ingredient. Chinese restaurant owners, attempting to quell public anxiety, began displaying “NO MSG” signs, inadvertently reinforcing the negative perception. It’s worth noting the inherent bias in labeling MSG’s supposed negative effects as “Chinese Restaurant Syndrome,” given MSG’s Japanese origin. This reflected a broader societal prejudice, associating Chinese products with being cheap and unsafe, while Japanese counterparts were seen as sophisticated and reliable. This historical context, exploring societal biases within food narratives, is a theme often investigated within the pages of Food and Wine Mag.
But the tide began to turn. For over two decades, a dedicated campaign to rehabilitate MSG’s reputation has been underway, spearheaded by leading food authorities and championed in publications like Food and Wine Mag. Jeffrey Steingarten, Vogue’s renowned food critic, ignited this movement in his 1999 Vogue essay, “Why Doesn’t Everyone in China Have a Headache?” He masterfully dismantled the baseless health claims against MSG. His groundbreaking work paved the way for numerous defenses of MSG in esteemed publications, including The New York Times, The New Yorker, Smithsonian Magazine, and notably, Food and Wine Mag. Even the data analysis website FiveThirtyEight delved into the issue, publishing an article titled “How MSG Got a Bad Rap: Flawed Science and Xenophobia,” echoing the themes of misinformation and prejudice that Food and Wine Mag often tackles in its food culture coverage.
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Leading chefs have also emerged as vocal MSG advocates. David Chang, a culinary innovator, delivered a compelling TED-like talk on MSG and umami at the Mad Symposium in Denmark in 2012. Heston Blumenthal, of the three-Michelin-starred The Fat Duck, dismissed the fear-mongering as an “old wives’ tale.” These endorsements from culinary giants, often highlighted by publications like Food and Wine Mag, further contribute to MSG’s positive reassessment.
Despite this growing acceptance within culinary circles and publications like Food and Wine Mag, pure MSG has yet to reclaim its place in most American home kitchens. Ironically, Americans unknowingly consume significant amounts of MSG daily through processed foods like Doritos and Campbell’s soup. The FDA estimates the average American adult consumes around 13 grams of glutamate from protein and an additional 0.55 grams of added MSG daily. Yet, the stigma persists, preventing many from consciously using MSG in their cooking. This reluctance is a relatively recent phenomenon.
There was a time when MSG was a pantry staple in America. A 1929 Atlantic City Sunday Press article proclaimed it “Salt That Tastes Like Meat,” explaining its prevalence in Japanese cooking and the meaning of Ajinomoto as “the element of taste.” In 1948, a wire-service article predicted “Monosodium to Join Salt and Pepper,” envisioning MSG as a ubiquitous seasoning. Companies like Ac’cent and General Mills launched their own MSG products. Articles lauded its “startling” flavor-enhancing abilities, claiming it “made flavors sing.” It was poised to become “the third shaker” on every table. This historical perspective, showcasing MSG’s former prominence, provides valuable context for understanding its current status, a type of historical culinary analysis often found in Food and Wine Mag.
Recipes from the early to mid-20th century reveal MSG’s widespread use. The earliest MSG recipe found dates back to 1931, “California’s Favorite Chateaubriand,” published in American Cattle Producer. By the late 1940s, newspapers frequently featured recipes incorporating MSG – pork chop casserole, pollo con tocino, baked stuffed zucchini. Cookbooks like Myra Waldo’s 1001 Ways to Please a Husband (1958) included MSG in dishes like scrambled shrimp. Even presidential palates were accustomed to it; Dwight Eisenhower’s beef stew recipe included MSG. Recipe contests, like a 1971 chicken-cooking contest, showcased MSG-enhanced dishes. This historical deep dive into MSG recipes mirrors the recipe-focused content that is a cornerstone of Food and Wine Mag.
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However, misinformation gradually infiltrated culinary discourse, labeling MSG as “optional,” “controversial,” or even “unsafe.” This stigma endures, and many Americans remain resistant to MSG, despite the efforts of Food and Wine Mag and other publications to dispel these myths.
Calvin Eng, a Food & Wine Best New Chef 2022 and co-author of Salt, Sugar + MSG, shares that his family initially avoided MSG due to these fears. “It was taboo at home,” he recalls. Despite now being a champion of MSG, he only began using it professionally. At Win Son restaurant, he notes, “we ordered 100-pound barrels at a time.” MSG has long enhanced savory dishes like burgers and meatloaf. But chefs like Eng are now innovating exciting new applications.
At his Brooklyn restaurant, Bonnie’s, Eng incorporates MSG into diverse dishes, from meats and vegetables to desserts like salted caramel, and even their popular MSG Martini. Head bartender Channing Centeno conceived this unique cocktail. Eng explains, “A lot of people always ask why we put it on menus and so up front. We’re proud to embrace it, to de-stigmatize it.” This open embrace of MSG, and the innovative ways chefs are using it, are trends often highlighted and celebrated by Food and Wine Mag.
Once chefs discover MSG’s umami power, there’s no turning back. The key, Eng advises, is moderation, as overuse can lead to bitterness. Johnny Spero of Bar Spero in Washington, D.C., another MSG advocate, agrees, noting that “the smallest amount rounds out the flavor.” This emphasis on balanced flavor enhancement is a culinary principle often emphasized in Food and Wine Mag‘s recipes and cooking advice.
While nutrition fads fluctuate, my father, disregarding fleeting trends, continued to make his MSG-enhanced Pearl Balls. And a segment of American home cooks quietly followed suit. MSG recipes persisted in cookbooks and newspapers, albeit less frequently. Post-1960s fear campaign, MSG still appeared in cookbooks like the 1975 New York Times Weekend Cookbook, the 1980 American Dietetic Association Family Cookbook, the 1993 Black Family Reunion Cookbook, and the 2005 Food Network Favorites. This continued presence in cookbooks, even amidst controversy, underlines MSG’s enduring, if understated, role in American cooking, a culinary history often explored in Food and Wine Mag.
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You can seek out MSG recipes, perhaps even in the archives of Food and Wine Mag. Or, like generations of American cooks, you can experiment with a pinch of this “magic ingredient” – in salad dressings, barbecue sauces, roasts, pasta sauces – and experience umami’s transformative effect. “I always joke and say it’s part of the Chinese trinity: salt, sugar, MSG,” says Eng. He keeps MSG by his stove, alongside salt and pepper, ready to enhance any dish. Sometimes, MSG is the missing element, the secret to unlocking a recipe’s full potential. Other times, it elevates existing flavors, adding depth and richness.
Perhaps the most undeniable “health claim” about MSG is its ability to make food taste incredibly delicious, encouraging us to savor every bite. And as Food and Wine Mag and culinary experts continue to illuminate the truth about MSG, perhaps more home cooks will confidently reach for this umami-boosting ingredient, adding a new dimension of flavor to their culinary creations, just like my father always did.
