Houston, Texas, is a city celebrated for its diverse and dynamic food scene. Among its many culinary treasures, the rise of West African cuisine stands out, offering a rich tapestry of flavors and cultural experiences. Venturing into this culinary landscape, one might find themselves at a place like Safari, a Nigerian restaurant, where the simple act of unwrapping fufu becomes an immersive cultural lesson. Fufu, a staple across West Africa, made from pounded yam in this instance, is more than just food; it’s a “swallow,” a starchy sidekick to flavorful soups and stews.
My initial encounter with fufu at Safari took an unexpected turn when Kavachi Ukegbu, daughter of the restaurant’s founder, Margaret, stepped in. Established in 1994 by Margaret, a Nigerian immigrant, Safari is a Houston culinary institution. Kavachi, co-author of “The Art of Fufu,” guided me through the authentic Nigerian dining experience. She curated a feast: land snail in sautéed onions and peppers, abacha with shredded cassava and stockfish, and fufu paired with nsala, a hearty soup brimming with offal, beef, and goat.
Ukegbu’s gentle correction of my fufu handling – using one hand, tearing, rolling, flattening, and dipping – was a lesson in cultural nuances. The term “swallow” took on a literal meaning as she watched, ensuring I grasped the authentic way to savor this dish. This experience at Safari epitomizes the genuine West African culinary adventures awaiting in Houston.
Arriving in Houston, post-election, my first stop was ChopnBlok, a newcomer to the Montrose neighborhood. Montrose, known for its vibrant dining and nightlife, now embraces West African flavors, signaling Houston’s evolving demographics. The growth of Houston’s West African population, particularly Nigerians, has been significant since the 1980s, exploding in the last decade. Census data reveals a doubling from 20,000 to over 53,000 between 2010 and 2022 in the Houston metro area. Houston has become a prime destination; as one resident noted, Nigerian students considering US colleges often weigh options like “Harvard, Stanford, Yale, or U. of H.?”
Margaret Ukegbu was a pioneer in the early 90s, and now, numerous West African businesses thrive, primarily in Alief, Southwest Houston, near Asia Town and Little Africa. A quick tour with Ukegbu showcased Bukky Enterprises, a West African wholesaler, and Suya Hut, famed for Hausa-style grilled meat. Houston’s dedication to celebrating its Nigerian community was evident in a City Hall exhibition honoring “notable Houston Nigerians,” including rapper Tobe Nwigwe, Olympian Seun Adigun, and ChopnBlok’s owner, Ope Amosu.
Ope Amosu’s ChopnBlok, starting as a fast-casual stall in Post food hall in 2021, reflects a mission to broaden West African food appeal. With an MBA and a brief stint at Chipotle, Amosu aimed to make West African cuisine accessible, much like other global cuisines.
ChopnBlok’s Montrose location elevates this ambition. Its stylish interior set the stage for a menu tasting with publicist Jailyn Marcel. The “chips & dip,” featuring “Liberian greens” with plantain chips, was a standout, as was the “reimagined” Scotch egg with ground turkey and deviled-egg filling. The Black Star entrée, a blend of grilled shrimp, Ghanaian waakye rice, and yassa curry, was captivating.
Amosu, a former football player nicknamed “Chef Homeboy,” credits his culinary success to “home cooks”—West African women specializing in single dishes for events. He learned from Houston’s home cooks, including his cousin, refining techniques for his restaurant.
The chips & dip were inspired by efo riro, a Nigerian spinach stew Amosu enjoys with plantains, and Liberian cuisine. His version uses kale and collards – greens brought to Liberia by repatriated Africans – with peppers, onions, and spices, cooked to maintain vibrant color and tenderized with baking soda.
ChopnBlok’s menu subtly merges West African and Black American Southern influences. “Smoky jollof jambalaya” blends Louisiana and West African staples. The Black Star mirrors Southern shrimp and grits.
In 2023, Amosu launched Chopd & Stewd, a food festival celebrating Houston’s West African heritage. Marcel highlighted conversations within the Black community about heritage and belonging, noting the festival’s role in uniting diverse Black identities.
My Houston visit concluded with brunch at the Breakfast Klub, a Black culture nexus in Midtown. Owner Marcus Davis, along with Amosu’s mentors Benji Leavitt and Chris Shepherd, and food writer Kayla Stewart, joined us. Stewart reflected on Houston’s inherent Black identity, recognizing the fusion of West African, Caribbean, and Black American cultures that fosters places like ChopnBlok.
Discussion touched on the Michelin Guide’s Texas arrival. However, the focus remained on Houston’s broader dining landscape, from strip mall taco shops to Vietnamese pho restaurants. A Senegalese food truck offering grilled lamb over vermicelli in a parking lot exemplified Houston’s unexpected culinary finds.
Post-election, Houston felt hopeful. Amosu, nearing US citizenship, considered his Nigerian identity intertwined with his Houstonian one. “It’s become a sanctuary for our community,” he said, emphasizing the growing Nigerian voice in Houston, “And I’m a Nigerian—we know how to make noise.” Houston’s food scene, particularly its West African offerings, is indeed making noise, attracting attention and palates worldwide. For anyone seeking an authentic and exciting food city, Houston, with its vibrant West African flavors, is a must-visit destination.
