When conversations drift to the familiar comforts of my past life in bustling metropolises, the things I miss most always come down to “family, friends, and truly good Chinese food.” The secret to authentic global cuisine, as any seasoned traveler knows, lies in the presence of authentic global communities. Mexico City, while a sprawling urban center, often surprises with its somewhat limited cultural diversity when compared to other world capitals of similar size. The majority of its vibrant population is wonderfully, unequivocally Mexican. This reality hits home for those of us who have navigated the often disappointing landscape of ersatz ‘Chinatowns’ – like Calle Dolores in the historic Centro Histórico – where gloppy, cornstarch-laden dishes swimming with celery are the norm. Or perhaps you’ve experienced the other end of the spectrum: overpriced, overly stylized chop suey in upscale neighborhoods like Lomas, leaving you wanting more. The good news is, genuine Asian flavors do exist in this sprawling city; you simply need to know where to seek them out to discover the real Food In Mexico.
The story of Asian influence in Mexico began in the 19th century. President Porfirio Diaz, with a vision of a modernized nation, actively encouraged foreign immigration. This initiative brought waves of Chinese, Japanese, and later, Korean immigrants to Mexican shores in significant numbers. These newcomers played crucial roles in the nation’s development. Chinese laborers were instrumental in building railroads and irrigation systems, particularly in the northern regions, and contributed significantly to the agricultural sector in the south. Leveraging their culinary expertise and efficient cooking techniques, some Chinese immigrants established “Cafés de Chinos.” These establishments, as detailed in my previous article [link to article about Cafes de Chinos], became Mexico’s unique interpretation of the classic American coffee shop. Serving breakfast at any hour and offering familiar, comforting dishes – what we might recognize today as Chinese-American staples like chow mein and chop suey – these cafes became ingrained in the local culinary landscape. However, a more recent wave of Asian immigrants, arriving since the dawn of the new millennium, has brought with it a demand for a more refined and authentic dining experience. In response, a number of establishments specifically catering to the Chinese community have emerged in recent years. Intriguingly, some of these restaurants operate with menus primarily or exclusively in Chinese, a testament to their commitment to authenticity and their focus on serving a specific clientele. What I present here is just an initial glimpse, a starting point in our exploration. Consider this a partial list, with promises of more culinary discoveries to come as we delve deeper into the rich tapestry of food in Mexico.
