Buford Highway has always been a culinary landmark for those in the know. For years, this iconic Atlanta stretch has been my personal playground, a place where I’ve explored the vibrant flavors of the world. Back in the late 90s, as a young food enthusiast, I frequented spots like Bien Thuy for delicate Vietnamese spring rolls, Little Szechuan for fiery dumplings, and Panahar for soul-warming Bangladeshi halim. Buford Highway, or “BuHi” as locals affectionately call it, was, and still is, a living testament to Atlanta’s international spirit. However, by the mid-2000s, the culinary energy seemed to shift, spreading outwards to areas with more affordable rents, like Suwanee and Tucker.
But reports of BuHi’s culinary stagnation were greatly exaggerated. Today, Buford Highway is experiencing a vibrant resurgence, reclaiming its title as a premier food destination. The arrival of global names like The Halal Guys signaled a renewed interest in the area. The revitalization of Asian Square, anchored by the celebrated Mamak and a bustling Asian supermarket with an adjoining food court, further solidified this comeback.
The expansive dining area of Food Terminal on Buford Highway, resembling a modern food hall.
At the heart of this exciting revival is Food Terminal, a restaurant that perfectly encapsulates the new Buford Highway. Opened in March, Food Terminal isn’t just a place to eat; it’s a culinary experience. Stepping inside feels like entering an upscale, modern food hall, complete with bright neon accents and industrial-chic seating. The cuisine is Malaysian, a fascinating and delicious melting pot of Chinese, Indian, Singaporean, and Thai influences. In my opinion, no other restaurant better embodies the essence of Buford Highway today: a vibrant collage of cultures where diversity is not just accepted but celebrated and actively sought after.
Busy servers efficiently delivering dishes from the open kitchen to diners at Food Terminal Buford Highway.
The story behind Food Terminal is as compelling as its menu. Co-owners Amy Wong and Howie Ewe, Malaysian immigrants who arrived in Atlanta in the 1980s, are no strangers to the Atlanta food scene. They previously managed the popular Top Spice restaurants (Ewe remains the head chef at Top Spice on Cobb Parkway) before launching Sweet Hut in Asian Square in 2012. Sweet Hut, the beloved pan-Asian bakery, has since expanded into a mini-chain, with more locations on the horizon. At Food Terminal Buford Highway, Wong takes the helm as head chef, while Ewe manages the operational side. Together, they’ve created a dining destination that surpasses their previous successes and stands out even amongst the diverse culinary landscape of Buford Highway.
A close-up view of the “Thai Chili Pan Mee” dish at Food Terminal, showcasing flat noodles with diverse toppings.
Even the menu at Food Terminal is a work of art. Designed like a glossy magazine, its 50 pages are filled with vibrant, full-page photos and catchy headlines like “The Ultimate Noodle Party” and “Asian Street Snacks + Drinks + Desserts! Wow! Yes, Rice, Too.” Navigating the menu, you’ll find 125 dishes categorized into sections like stuffed tofu, steamed vegetables, skewers, noodle soups, and tossed noodles. Speaking of noodles, the “Thai Chili Pan Mee” at Food Terminal is a dish I find myself constantly craving. This bowl of perfectly silky flat noodles arrives artfully arranged with toppings – dried anchovies, ground pork, shiitake and wood ear mushrooms, spinach, and a fried egg – each component meticulously placed. The true enjoyment comes from mixing it all together with chopsticks, incorporating the sambal belecan, a fiery Malaysian shrimp paste, until it transforms into a flavorful, chewy, and utterly addictive concoction.
What sets Food Terminal Buford Highway apart is their commitment to freshness. Their flat pan mee and signature thin egg noodles are made fresh weekly, a staggering 800 servings of them. Ewe even designed a custom machine specifically for this purpose, with a dedicated staff member ensuring its continuous operation. While many restaurants source noodles from manufacturers, Food Terminal’s house-made noodles are noticeably chewier and more satisfying. A quick glance around the dining room confirms their popularity – noodles in various forms are a staple on nearly every table, whether it’s a bowl of Sichuan beef noodles or a plate of “tossed noodles,” a delightful cross between Cantonese lo mein and chow mein. While Buford Highway offers countless noodle options, Food Terminal has become my go-to destination for noodle satisfaction.
The “Cheese ‘N Cheese” dish at Food Terminal, a creative rice dish served in a sizzling pan.
Food Terminal’s menu is a testament to culinary playfulness, drawing inspiration from global cuisines and reflecting Chef Wong’s innovative and slightly irreverent approach. The “Cheese ‘N Cheese” dish is a prime example. Reminiscent of Korean dolsot bibimbap, diners are encouraged to stir the ingredients in a hot cast-iron pan. A moat of sizzling egg surrounds a mound of tomato-braised rice, topped with corn, bell peppers, and Spam. This unexpected combination of Hawaiian, Korean, and Malaysian elements sounds unconventional, but it works incredibly well. Mixing it all together, I found myself enjoying a dish that tasted like a delicious, cheesy Southwestern omelet transformed into flavorful fried rice.
For someone like me, who holds Buford Highway dear and chooses to live nearby, the arrival and success of Food Terminal is incredibly encouraging. It signals a powerful message: Buford Highway is not just back; it is once again solidifying its position as the most exciting and dynamic place to eat in Atlanta, and Food Terminal Buford Highway is leading the charge.
Rating: ★★★★ (Excellent)
Good to know: Don’t miss their refreshing virgin mixed drinks, especially the lemongrass and lime soda.
Visit: 5000 Buford Highway, Chamblee, GA 30341
Call: 678-353-6110
Originally published in Atlanta Magazine, June 2017.
