What is the mystique of Oaxaca? How can a seemingly simple memela – a robust, oval tortilla crafted from ground masa and perfectly crisped on a comal – deliver such an extraordinary culinary experience? The same enchantment applies to a humble bowl of black beans, a delightfully blistered empanada – in Oaxaca, a generous, quesadilla-like turnover of masa embracing stretchy quesillo – or a cup of rich drinking chocolate, traditionally prepared with water and whisked to a luxurious froth. Somewhere within the post-meal contentment sparked by ancient grains, cacao, and the gentle heat of chilies, lies the key to understanding Oaxaca’s distinctive food culture, setting it apart from the vast landscape of Mexican cuisine and global gastronomy. This exploration offers a fundamental guide to the cuisine of Oaxaca, an intricate culinary tradition that is undeniably too expansive, historic, vibrant, and diverse to be fully captured even within the pages of a comprehensive cookbook, let alone a single article. However, we have curated a selection of essential insights to truly appreciate the captivating essence of Sazón Oaxaqueño, Oaxacan Flavor.
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Delving into the Background of Oaxacan Cuisine
From enduring Indigenous roots to the innovative wave of la cocina de autor, understanding the context is key to appreciating Oaxacan Food.
Oaxaca is home to approximately 4 million people, and while its captivating central city, known for its vibrant colonial architecture and mountainous setting, is widely recognized, over half of the population resides in the state’s 10,523 rural villages. These villages are nestled within diverse landscapes, from verdant valleys to arid deserts, misty mountains, and tropical coastlines. The abundance of wild herbs and naturally grown fruits and vegetables flourishing in Oaxaca’s varied microclimates are fundamental to the daily diets of the state’s thriving Indigenous communities. These communities continue to profoundly influence Oaxaca’s diverse cuisine and culture today.
Remarkably, Oaxaca is home to 16 of Mexico’s 68 officially recognized Indigenous groups. Certain groups, such as Los Mixes, proudly known in Oaxaca as Los Jamas Conquistados (The Never Conquered), resisted Spanish colonization. Consequently, their culinary traditions remain largely untouched by European ingredients that have become integrated into much of Mexican cooking.
Oaxaca’s strong Indigenous identity and the self-sufficient lifestyle prevalent in many rural villages – places where cooking over wood fires and using earthenware vessels are still commonplace – have fostered a remarkable resistance to the rapid globalization impacting other parts of Mexico. While limited infrastructure is partly a result of historical neglect and systemic discrimination, compelling many communities toward self-governance, it has also cultivated a form of cultural resilience. This resilience prioritizes the food sovereignty of Indigenous communities and elevates handmade, heirloom ingredients to a position of culinary prominence.
The exceptional quality of a classic Oaxacan memela originates from its masa, often derived from one of Oaxaca’s numerous varieties of non-hybridized, nixtamalized maize, which is inherently heirloom – not through marketing, but through generations of cultivation. It’s enhanced by the thin, savory layer of asiento, Oaxaca’s caramelized paste made from rendered chicharrón (pork rind) drippings, often crafted by artisans whose families have perfected the technique for generations. Even the fresh, milky queso fresco sprinkled on top is typically the work of local cheesemakers, meticulously crafted by hand. And the miltomates (heirloom tomatillos) or tomatoes de riñon in the vibrant salsa come from seeds that have been carefully saved and passed down through centuries. This unwavering Oaxacan commitment to superior ingredients and quality is palpable in every bite.
Food is inextricably linked to life in Oaxaca, with significant milestones marked by specific dishes. Higaditos (a delicate egg-drop chicken soup in a tomatillo broth) is traditionally served at weddings, while pasilla-spiced beef stew followed by pan dulce and drinking chocolate are served after a funeral. This dedicated preservation of culinary customs has resulted in iconic recipes that have withstood the test of time.
While this deep-rooted commitment to tradition persists, Oaxaca’s urban centers, particularly the capital city of Oaxaca de Juárez, are also witnessing a rise in cocina de autor (modern fine dining) restaurants. These establishments are consistently recognized on prestigious “best of” lists throughout the Americas. Oaxaca has become a sought-after global travel destination, driving the demand for sophisticated restaurants with innovative menus. However, for Oaxacans, home cooking remains as highly esteemed as haute cuisine. Similarly revered are the Coccineras Tradicionales, the women cooks who are frequently the heart of family kitchens and the driving force behind the state’s informal food economy of stands and street stalls. These mothers, grandmothers, sisters, and daughters are the essential guardians of Oaxaca’s distinctive flavors.
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The Foundational Elements of Oaxacan Food
Despite significant culinary variations across regions, six fundamental flavor pillars consistently build the foundation of Oaxacan cuisine.
Chiles: In Oaxaca, fresh chiles, such as the chile de agua, transcend the role of mere spicy garnish. They are roasted, drizzled with lime, and served as a prominent side dish in numerous Oaxacan eateries. Recently harvested chiles are often sold in impressive mounds at open-air markets. Dried chiles, also found in these vibrant markets, are more akin to supple fruit leather or plump dried fruits than the brittle, tough chiles commonly found elsewhere. Two chile varieties uniquely cherished in Oaxaca, particularly in the Valles Centrales (Central Valleys) region, are the pasilla Oaxaqueña, preserved through smoking rather than drying, and the chilhuacle, a regionally popular chile boasting deep cacao and tobacco-like notes. A simple tomato salsa prepared with either of these chiles can possess a complexity rivaling that of a great mole.
Corn: Oaxaca is considered a cradle of corn domestication, with evidence of some of the world’s earliest corn varieties dating back to 4200 BCE. To say that corn is central to life in Oaxaca is an understatement. Oaxacans live, eat, drink, and breathe corn, which is featured in dishes ranging from hearty stews to delicate desserts. Farmers diligently preserve heirloom corn varieties, saving seeds passed down through generations, safeguarding the depth of flavor inherent in these ancient grains. This profound understanding of corn continues to evolve. Maize is so intrinsically linked to the Oaxacan way of life that every community, whether rural or urban, has communal grinders. Locals pay a small fee to grind freshly nixtamalized corn for their households, typically grinding it finely for perfectly textured tortillas or coarsely for atole or tamales.
Beans: Oaxaca boasts approximately 25 bean varieties, with 21 being wild. Beans are the cornerstone of many Oaxacan comfort foods. Enfrijoladas, similar to enchiladas but bathed in a pureed black bean sauce instead of a chile-based sauce, and crispy tlayudas, where beans contribute a rich layer of flavor and creamy texture, are prime examples. Garbanzos (chickpeas) are candied in panela (unprocessed brown sugar) and become a unique topping for Oaxaca’s regional interpretation of arroz con leche (rice pudding). Oaxaca’s original “convenience food” is a nourishing, almost instant soup called sopa de frijol, made simply from toasted ground black beans and hot water. Similar to chiles, most dried beans found in Oaxacan open-air markets are exceptionally fresh, from the most recent harvest, making them quicker to cook and richer in flavor.
Cheese: The undisputed jewel of Oaxacan cheese is quesillo. Distinct from its pasteurized American counterpart, often marketed as “Queso Oaxaca” and resembling Monterey Jack, quesillo is an unpasteurized, briny, semi-firm cheese, texturally bridging fresh mozzarella and string cheese. Introduced by the Spanish, cows and dairy became integrated into the Mexican diet, and today, quesillo is a star ingredient in Oaxacan empanadas. It melts just enough while retaining its delightful squeaky texture. Typically pulled apart by hand into delicate strands, a small amount of quesillo goes a long way. Beyond quesillo, queso fresco is also used abundantly, crumbled as a salty, fresh finish, alongside a variety of other soft, fresh, and creamy cheeses.
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Wild Herbs: Oaxacan cooks embrace bold flavors, generously using pungent wild herbs and robust spices. The peppery, root beer-like aroma of hoja santa permeates the state, readily found growing in gardens and on restaurant rooftops. Its distinctive flavor and fragrance are a cornerstone of many chicken stews, soups, moles, tamales, fish dishes, cheeses, cocktails, and more. Other herbs, like eucalyptus-scented poleo, are the secret ingredient in earthy black bean paste preparations. Avocado leaves, both fresh and dried, serve as a fragrant substitute for bay leaves, lending their anise-like notes to slow-cooked chicken and lamb barbacoa. Spices like cumin seeds are so frequently used in everyday cooking that it’s common to find them at markets still vibrant green, freshly harvested that week.
Smoke: Oaxaca’s relationship with fire, and particularly smoke, is profound, almost an obsession. Smoke is sometimes the primary cooking method, and at other times, a key flavoring element. In general, the question arises: is a dish truly Oaxacan if it hasn’t been toasted, roasted, smoked, or charred in some way? Consider leche quemada, Oaxaca’s popular ice cream, intentionally made with milk allowed to slightly burn at the bottom of the pot, imparting a pleasing, bittersweet smokiness. A variety of hard quesillo is smoked with local wood until deeply browned and intensely smoky throughout. Mezcal relies on deep wood smoke for its signature flavor, as does barbacoa. Even dried chiles, like pasilla Oaxaqueño, are smoked to develop a lasting depth. There’s even a mole, chichilo, ingeniously made from the ashes of tortillas.
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Exploring the Diverse Regions of Oaxacan Cuisine
Each of Oaxaca’s eight distinct regions boasts its own unique culinary identity, each deserving of extensive study. Here are glimpses into how flavors and textures evolve across the state.
El Valle (The Valley): The cuisine of Oaxaca’s Central Valleys is arguably the most celebrated within the state. This region, home to Oaxaca City, offers a comprehensive representation of Oaxacan ingredients and culinary styles, familiar to many visitors. El Valle excels in classic dishes: mole, tlayudas, enfrijoladas, nieve (ice cream), bread, and chocolate. As the state’s central hub, the constant influx of visitors invigorates the food and drink scene, with new restaurants and cafes continually emerging.
El Istmo (The Isthmus): Due to its location between two coastlines, El Istmo’s cuisine prominently features dried and salted fish, as well as smoked seafood. This humid region is also known for its generous use of butter, eggs, and cheese, thanks to abundant local livestock farming. Explore the diverse array of Isthmus breads, many enriched with cheese and butter, and Papa Ismeña, a custardy potato casserole with a whole egg baked within.
La Costa (The Coast): Oaxaca’s Pacific coast is blessed with incredible seafood, characteristic of coastal Mexico. A stunning variety of fresh fish is transformed into ceviches, cócteles, and aguachiles, or simply grilled or fried whole. Indigenous and Afromexicano influences along the coast contribute to unique specialties such as tamales de tichinda – mussel tamales featuring a generous handful of mussels, shells included, folded into red chile masa and steamed in corn husks.
Tuxtepec and Papaloapan: Bordering Veracruz, this region’s cuisine is strongly influenced by Veracruzana and Cuban flavors. Caribbean notes like lime, garlic, and root vegetables like yucca are prevalent. Dishes like the renowned wood-fired lechon (suckling pig) with crispy skin are often accompanied by fried plantains in addition to tortillas.
Sierra Norte (Northern Mountains): The Sierra Norte region of Oaxaca resisted Spanish conquest, and its population remains largely Indigenous, primarily Mixe and Zapoteco. Here, pre-Hispanic culinary traditions persist, including tortillas made from potatoes, fluffy tamales made from fresh corn (not nixtamalized), and distinct local bean varieties. Sierra Norte’s pulque, the fermented sap of the century plant and Mexico’s original alcoholic beverage, exhibits a more acidic profile due to the colder climate’s effect on fermentation and the local terroir. Also, sample tepache rojo, considered the “drink of the gods,” a unique blend of pulque, corn, cacao, and crushed red annatto seed, all fermented together.
Sierra Sur (Southern Mountains): Oaxaca’s Sierra Sur offers a dramatic landscape of pine forests, dense fog, and hillside homes. Food traditions here highlight foraging for wild mushrooms in a spectrum of colors, textures, and flavors. The cooler climate is balanced by locally grown coffee and fiery mezcal infused with medicinal herbs. Miahuatlán de Porfirio Díaz, a municipality within Sierra Sur, is celebrated for its spicy tabiche chiles, one of Oaxaca’s 25 endemic chile varieties. Primarily used locally in a yellow mole with beef, these chiles are also favored by fine-dining chefs in Oaxaca City.
La Mixteca: Oaxaca’s Mixteca region is a desert-like, arid area. Its most iconic dish is undoubtedly Mole de Caderas, a stew-like mole traditionally made with goat and served in clay pots. Goat meat is widely consumed, as are semillas de guaje, intensely flavored seeds from the local guaje tree, endemic to this region.
La Cañada: This northern region is best known for its contributions to Oaxacan sweets and desserts. This includes nicuatole, a gelatin-like dessert made from milk and corn. Candied papaya, figs, and a regional variation of Oaxaca’s famous caramelized chewy milk candy, jamoncillo, made with pepitas (pumpkin seeds), are also popular. Savory dishes in La Cañada are influenced by Indigenous traditions, featuring game meats like rabbit and wild turkey. The velvety moles here are more akin to stews, such as chileatole and tesmole, both thickened with nixtamal.
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Must-Try Oaxacan Dishes and Drinks
Just as a single trip could never encompass all the culinary wonders of Oaxaca, exploring the cuisine of the Central Valleys region alone could take numerous visits. Here is a curated list of essential dishes and drinks to begin your Oaxacan food journey. Note that Oaxacan culinary culture is dynamic, with dishes constantly evolving and regional variations being significant. Approach your culinary exploration with an open mind.
Mole: Mole remains Oaxaca’s most renowned and ubiquitous dish. It’s often the first dish visitors crave upon arrival and the flavors they miss most upon departure. A complex, saucy creation with endless variations, mole generally combines chiles, seeds, nuts, vegetables, and other ingredients, all ground together and served with meat or vegetables, or tucked into a tamal. Oaxaca boasts a mole for every occasion, from a quick estofado made with pickled jalapeños to a hearty, chowder-like segueza thickened with coarsely ground corn.
Tlayudas: A tlayuda is an oversized, crisp tortilla layered with asiento (chicharrón paste), beans, quesillo, shredded cabbage, and a choice of chorizo, tasajo (thinly sliced grilled beef), or cecina (thinly sliced, chile-rubbed grilled pork). The generously topped tortilla is charred over an open fire until perfectly crispy and served open-faced or folded over, often accompanied by generous amounts of salsa – especially delicious from street vendors in the late hours.
Memelas: Memelas are considered a quintessential Oaxacan breakfast, but like many Oaxacan staples, they are enjoyed throughout the day. Similar to tlayudas, memelas are topped with asiento (bean paste) and queso fresco. For breakfast, try a memela topped with eggs and a generous helping of fresh salsa.
Barbacoa de chivo or borrego (Goat or Lamb Barbacoa): Oaxacan barbacoa is a flavorful, brothy dish. Meat, typically goat or lamb, is marinated in a blend of spices and dried chiles and slow-roasted, traditionally in an earthen pit, until exceptionally tender. Barbacoa is traditionally eaten for breakfast and served with a large stack of soft tortillas to soak up the flavorful juices. Don’t hesitate to generously garnish with raw onion and lime.
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Chocolate: Imagine a place where cacao is as revered as coffee and readily available everywhere. This is Oaxaca. Hot chocolate is a daily staple, prepared in the traditional Indigenous way: with water, not milk, and vigorously whisked with a wooden molinillo until a rich froth forms. Many Oaxacans enjoy it for breakfast or as a post-dinner drink during sobremesa – the cherished time for after-meal socializing. Some coffee shops also offer it chilled over ice for a refreshing summer treat.
Pan de yema: Pan de yema is a rich, dense yeasted roll enriched with egg yolks and topped with sesame seeds. Similar to Oaxaca’s seasonal pan de muerto but without the spices or orange zest, it’s meant to be enjoyed by dunking it aggressively into chocolate or coffee until saturated, soft, and utterly delicious.
Chapulines (Grasshoppers): Chapulines are a significant protein source in Oaxacan cuisine. Sold in open-air markets, either plain or dried for home preparation, they are also enjoyed as a snack, fried until crispy and seasoned with dried or fresh chiles and garlic. They are excellent in tacos or simply by the handful, especially with a squeeze of fresh lime. For a subtle introduction, try blending them into a salsa for a boost of umami.
Empanadas: Oaxacan empanadas, distinct from the wheat flour-based empanadas of South America, are large, half-moon-shaped quesadillas made from fresh masa and quesillo. Try the popular empanadas de flor de calabaza (squash blossom empanadas), a beloved seasonal Oaxacan specialty.
Aguas frescas (Fresh Fruit Drinks): The variety of aguas frescas in Oaxaca reflects the abundance of fruit grown across its diverse regions. These sweet, infused drinks range from horchata tinted pink with cactus fruit syrup to agua de chilacayota, made from a fibrous squash. There are even aguas frescas made with blended lime leaves and coconut meat.
Mezcal: Tracing any Oaxacan’s family history often reveals a connection to mezcal production or agave cultivation. Once considered a lesser alternative to tequila, mezcal has become a significant economic engine for Oaxaca in recent years. However, this economic boom has also attracted outsiders who have exploited agave resources, land, history, and mezcaleros (mezcal producers). When enjoying mezcal, it’s important to ask questions: Who owns the brand? Do Oaxacans have equity? Are employees paid fairly and given back to? Supporting responsible mezcal consumption is crucial for Oaxaca’s sustainable growth in the mezcal industry.
Tejate: Tejate, with origins in this region of Mexico, is one of Oaxaca’s most revered beverages. This toasty, milky (yet dairy-free) drink is made from toasted corn, cacao, sugar, rosita de cacao blossoms (a wildflower with caramel notes), and the pit of the tropical mamey fruit. Painstakingly whipped by hand, the naturally occurring plant-based fat from the mamey seed creates a silky froth prized for its buttery texture. Tejate’s origins predate the Spanish conquest and were once reserved for special ceremonies, such as the first corn planting of the season. Now, it’s a refreshing everyday drink for many Oaxacans, most often served chilled in a halved, dried gourd (jícara).
Pulque: Before European beer arrived, pulque, the sweet fermented sap of the century plant (agave), was Mexico’s original alcoholic drink. Its texture varies in viscosity and cloudiness depending on fermentation time – typically, longer fermentation leads to a thicker consistency. To produce pulque, the tall flowering stalk of a mature century plant is cut off, allowing nutrient-rich sap to collect at a rate of one to two liters every three to four days. Fresh sap, called aguamiel, is believed to have medicinal properties.
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By Bricia Lopez and Javier Cabral, with photography by Juan de Dios Garza Vela
