Wurst, or sausage, is more than just food in Germany; it’s a cultural icon, a testament to centuries of culinary tradition, and a delicious representation of regional diversity. As the daughter of German immigrants, wurst is practically in my DNA, and no trip to Germany is complete without indulging in the incredible variety this country offers. While Germany boasts many culinary delights, from maultaschen to schnitzel, it’s the allure of wurst that truly captivates me every time.
Experiencing Frankfurt’s diverse wurst offerings, a key part of German food culture.
In the realm of German food, wurst takes center stage. From the northern reaches of Bavaria to the bustling streets of Berlin, each region boasts its own unique take on this beloved staple. Whether you prefer it boiled, grilled, or slathered in curry, German wurst offers a flavor for every palate. Let’s embark on a flavorful journey through Germany, exploring some of its most iconic wurst varieties.
Weisswurst in Munich: A Bavarian Breakfast Tradition
Munich, my mother’s hometown, is synonymous with weisswurst. This delicate veal sausage is a Bavarian specialty, traditionally boiled rather than grilled or fried. Served in pairs, weisswurst is most often enjoyed as a hearty breakfast or a light lunch, rarely making an appearance at dinner. The quintessential weisswurst experience is incomplete without a large, soft pretzel and a dollop of sweet Bavarian mustard (senf).
A tempting display of various wursts at Viktualmarkt in Munich, a paradise for German food enthusiasts.
My favorite places to savor weisswurst are twofold: the comforting familiarity of my cousin’s kitchen table and the vibrant atmosphere of the Viktualmarkt. This bustling farmer’s market in the heart of Munich, a stone’s throw from the famous Glockenspiel in Marienplatz, is a wurst lover’s paradise. While my cousin’s village may have limited butcher options, Viktualmarkt boasts dozens, showcasing an endless array of wursts, from sandwich fillings to cook-at-home options, and freshly cooked delights ready to be devoured at narrow counters.
There are distinct methods to properly eat weisswurst, each reflecting a different level of expertise. The easiest approach is to simply slice off a piece, peel away the thin casing, and enjoy. A more refined technique involves slicing the weisswurst lengthwise, peeling the casing in one elegant piece, and then savoring each uncased slice. For the truly adventurous, the most traditional, albeit challenging, method is the “Zuzeln” – holding the entire weisswurst and sucking the filling directly from the casing. This method, while authentic, is best reserved for seasoned locals and definitely not recommended for tourists, especially after a beer or two! And a word of caution: avoid attempting the Zuzeln at the Donisl, a historic restaurant near Marienplatz, as weisswurst* is strictly a breakfast item, disappearing from the menu after 11 am.
Classic Munich weisswurst served with pretzel and sweet mustard, a staple of German food.
Beyond the well-known sausages, Germany’s wurst culture extends to salami-style varieties and leberkäse. Leberkäse, often translated as “liver cheese,” is a type of liverwurst or pork terrine. Despite its name, which might sound unappealing to some, leberkäse is a delicious and hearty German food. It’s served in thick, warm slices, fresh from the steam table, nestled between halves of a soft brötchen roll. This makes for a substantial and satisfying sandwich – a testament to the versatility of wurst in German cuisine.
Bratwurst in Frankfurt: Grilled to Perfection
Moving to Frankfurt, my father’s hometown, the wurst of choice transforms into bratwurst. Found on every corner from street vendors and sidewalk kiosks to restaurant menus, bratwurst is a Frankfurt staple for lunch and dinner. “Brat” in German slang refers to “grill,” and Frankfurt’s grilled wursts come in various shapes and sizes, from short and stout to long and slender. A defining characteristic of Frankfurt bratwurst is its natural casing, which delivers a satisfying “snap” with each bite, releasing an explosion of flavor. Frankfurters, as the city’s residents call themselves, are adamant about one thing: never, ever call their beloved bratwurst a “frankfurter.” Legend has it that bratwurst has been a Frankfurt tradition since 1487, predating Columbus’s voyage to the New World, and is exclusively made with pork.
The Bratwurst Museum in Nuremberg, dedicated to the history and culture of German bratwurst.
American hot dogs and Vienna sausages often pale in comparison to authentic German bratwurst. The American versions may contain beef, chicken, turkey, or even plant-based substitutes, and are sometimes steamed. In Frankfurt, or anywhere in Germany for that matter, such practices are considered culinary sacrilege.
The journey of wurst didn’t stop within Germany’s borders. In the 1600s, a butcher in Coburg began calling them “dachsunds,” or little dogs. Around the same time, Austrians in Wein (the German name for Vienna) started referring to their bratwursts as “weiners.” This linguistic detour brings us to a potential point of confusion: the German word for wine is also wein. So, ordering wein with your weiner in Wein requires careful pronunciation to avoid any misunderstanding!
Nuremberg Bratwurst: Small Size, Big Flavor
While Frankfurters are particular about their bratwurst nomenclature, Nuremberg embraces its local sausages as “Nurembergers.” These are smaller, finger-sized brats, and it typically takes three or four to fill a brötchen. A dinner portion often consists of a generous dozen.
Nuremberg bratwurst, known for their small size and distinct spice blend, a regional German food specialty.
The diminutive size of Nuremberg bratwurst is attributed to a couple of intriguing historical anecdotes. Nuremberg proudly claims the invention of bratwurst dates back to 1313, even earlier than Frankfurt’s claim. One story suggests their small size was designed for feeding prisoners in the city jail. These little sausages could be conveniently slipped through the keyholes, which were considerably larger in medieval times. This size also facilitated feeding those locked outside the city gates after curfew. Whether bread and mustard accompanied these jailhouse wursts remains a mystery.
Another theory behind the smaller size involves 16th-century taxes. The Nuremberg town council decreed that street vendors must sell smaller bratwurst than butchers or taverns, who paid higher taxes. Today, the smaller size is standard across the board.
Nuremberg bratwurst distinguishes itself further through its unique flavor profile. Seasoned with marjoram, mace, chervil, cardamom, and ginger, these spices reflect Nuremberg’s significant role in the medieval international spice trade.
Nuremberg’s dedication to its bratwurst heritage is so profound that the city houses an entire museum dedicated to it – the Nuremberg Bratwurst Museum. Interestingly, it’s located across the cobblestone street from the Henckel Museum, the former residence of the town executioner, now a museum of medieval punishment. Both museums stand just a short distance from the old jail, complete with its historical keyholes. It was within the Bratwurst Museum that I learned about the fascinating details of taxes and spices. In the executioner’s museum, I was equally captivated to discover that Franz Schmidt, Nuremberg’s long-serving executioner who retired in 1617, transitioned into a respected surgeon, repurposing his anatomical knowledge gained from his previous profession – including the removal of tongues for blasphemy – for more benevolent purposes. But, I digress once again!
Currywurst in Berlin: A Post-War Culinary Creation
Finally, our wurst journey takes us to Berlin, home of the iconic currywurst. This Berlin specialty features a bratwurst smothered in curry, which can range from a simple dusting of curry powder to a flavorful curry sauce or ketchup infused with curry powder and other spices. Currywurst can be served whole or sliced, always accompanied by some form of curry seasoning and typically with fried potatoes, locally known as “chips,” never “French fries.”
Berlin currywurst, a popular German street food, showcasing the innovative use of curry spices.
The origin of currywurst is a direct result of World War II. Its invention is credited to Herta Heuwer, who, in 1949, ingeniously combined Worcestershire sauce and curry powder obtained from British soldiers with American ketchup and chopped onions. She began selling this unique wurst and sauce concoction to construction workers rebuilding post-war Berlin, and a culinary legend was born.
This isn’t just folklore; it’s documented history. Herta Heuwer patented her “Chillup” sauce in 1951 and was honored by the city of Berlin on her 100th birthday in 2013. Today, Berlin proudly claims to consume over 70 million currywursts annually.
This post-war period and ketchup also bring to mind a personal anecdote. My cousin Heinz and I share a post-war ketchup story of our own. As a young girl in New York City, I recall helping my mother assemble “care packages” filled with coffee, sugar, and other essentials to send to her sister’s family in Munich. During one of my recent visits, my cousin Heinz chuckled as he recounted opening one of those packages and discovering what he described as a comish (strange) bottle of red sauce with his name on it.
Germany’s wurst diversity is a culinary adventure waiting to be explored. From the delicate weisswurst of Munich to the spicy currywurst of Berlin, and the regional variations in between, German Food Wurst offers a delicious and deeply cultural experience. I, for one, eagerly anticipate my next trip to Germany for another immersive wurst-filled culinary journey.
Evelyn Kanter is a NYC-based travel and automotive journalist.
