It’s time to talk about Gullah Geechee Food. While it might seem like a new trend, this vibrant cuisine is deeply rooted in American history, representing perhaps the most established, yet often overlooked, culinary tradition in the South. Prepare to hear about it everywhere, and more importantly, to taste and savor the unique flavors of Gullah Geechee cooking.
The Gullah Geechee people are the descendants of Africans, primarily from Sierra Leone and West Africa, who were brought to the United States during the transatlantic slave trade. Isolated for generations in the Sea Islands and coastal low country stretching from North Carolina to Jacksonville, Florida, they forged a distinct culture. This isolation allowed them to preserve unique customs, traditions, and a way of life that has been diluted or lost in wider Southern society due to migration and cultural shifts. Their heritage extends beyond food to encompass the captivating Gullah Geechee language, a Creole dialect blending English with African linguistic roots.
Just as other Southern food styles have risen to national prominence, Gullah Geechee cuisine is perfectly positioned for its moment in the spotlight. The most compelling reason? The food is simply and profoundly delicious.
For those already acquainted, the cornerstone of Gullah Geechee food is its rich, grain-based dishes, celebrated for their profound depth of flavor. Rice is not just an ingredient; it’s a legacy. The Gullah Geechee people are rice cultivation experts, carrying forward a 3,000-year-old tradition from Africa’s “Rice Coast.”
While parallels exist between Gullah Geechee cuisine and Louisiana Creole flavors, distinct characteristics set it apart. Dishes frequently feature rice and fresh, seasonal seafood, but also incorporate grains like millet and benne seed (sesame). Okra, tomatoes, braised vegetables, and stewed greens are staples, resulting in dishes that are substantial, intensely flavorful, and undeniably Southern.
Another appealing aspect of Gullah Geechee food is its unpretentious nature. This is food that prioritizes flavor and community over formality. While not always styled for elaborate food photography, its appeal lies in its authentic, hearty character – food meant to be enjoyed, not just admired.
However, the historical context of Gullah Geechee food, born from the ingenuity of enslaved people, has unfortunately led to unfair stereotypes and cultural appropriation.
VICE News visited St. Helena Island, South Carolina, highlighting these issues. Correspondent Danny Gold spoke with Marquetta Goodwine, known as Queen Quet, Chieftess of the Gullah/Geechee Nation and founder of the Gullah/Geechee Sea Island Coalition. Queen Quet cultivates okra, peanuts, cantaloupe, watermelon, and other Southern staples on land her great-great-grandfather, once enslaved, ultimately purchased.
When asked about the island’s perceived isolation, Queen Quet offered a different perspective, stating with a smile, “That’s what we call ‘insulated.’ We feel like we’re insulated and kinda kept warmed and keep our culture alive away from the mainstream culture.” This “insulation” is increasingly vital as areas like Hilton Head, developed on land historically belonging to Gullah Geechee families, continue to expand.
Chef BJ Dennis, a Charleston native, stands out as a leading figure in contemporary Gullah Geechee cuisine, acting as a culinary ambassador. Dennis travels extensively, including appearances in Hilton Head, hosting pop-up dinners to introduce Gullah Geechee flavors to new audiences. He actively challenges the misconception of Gullah Geechee food as overcooked and emphasizes its distinct identity, separate from mainstream Southern dishes like fried chicken and macaroni and cheese.
Chef Dennis describes Gullah cuisine as “[a] lot of the basis not only of South Carolina food, but Southern food, and the original food culture of the New World.” Ironically, despite his heritage, Dennis admits he didn’t fully appreciate the food of his childhood, prepared by his grandparents, until experiencing other island cuisines abroad. He noted in a Charleston City Paper interview in 2012, “We don’t embrace it like we should. It’s almost a stigma.”
Accessibility has also hindered the broader appreciation of Gullah Geechee food. While common in home kitchens within the community, finding authentic Gullah Geechee restaurants has been challenging for outsiders. The closure of beloved establishments like Gullah Cuisine in recent years has further limited access. Furthermore, the appropriation of the “Geechee” name by businesses lacking genuine connection to the culture creates confusion and dilutes its authenticity.
However, the tide is turning. Over the past year, momentum has been building to elevate Gullah Geechee food and culture, fostering greater awareness and appreciation. Media outlets are increasingly recognizing the profound contributions of the Gullah Geechee people to American culture. While concerns persist regarding the displacement of Gullah Geechee communities and the need for continued cultural leadership following the passing of storytelling preservationist Cornelia Bailey, a vibrant Gullah cultural renaissance is underway.
South Carolina is increasingly celebrating its Gullah Geechee heritage. Beaufort welcomed a new visitors center last April, and Columbia now boasts DaufusKEYS Gullah Bistro and Piano Bar. The Weather Channel has highlighted the devastating impact of climate change on Gullah Geechee lands. The Charleston-based Gullah band Ranky Tanky topped Billboard’s jazz charts with their debut album of traditional songs. Even Harvard University has joined the movement, launching a Gullah language course.
Imagine the growing enthusiasm as visitors to Charleston venture beyond the city center to sample local favorites like garlic crab and shrimp at Ravenel Seafood. Or as they discover one-pot Gullah Geechee meals like purloo and recognize its influence on familiar dishes like country captain and chicken bog. As BJ Dennis articulated in an Eater article exploring Gullah cuisine’s past, present, and future, increased visibility in Charleston restaurants will pave the way for more Gullah restaurant ownership and wider recognition.
In today’s world, there’s a renewed focus on understanding what it truly means to be American. The Gullah Geechee story is undeniably and profoundly American. As we broaden our culinary horizons and deepen our appreciation for the diverse tapestry of Southern food, we will recognize the immeasurable value of Gullah Geechee traditions. These traditions enrich our understanding of heritage itself.
There is a strong sense that the Gullah Geechee community is on the cusp of receiving the recognition, respect, and economic empowerment they rightfully deserve for sharing their cultural heritage in an ever-evolving world. This is the perfect moment to celebrate Gullah Geechee culture and gather around the table for a shared meal, experiencing the heart and soul of Southern cuisine.
