Walking into John’s Food & Wine on a bustling Thursday evening, the allure of open bar seats was immediately apparent. For many, snagging a spot at the bar would be the ideal walk-in’s victory. However, at this increasingly popular upscale, fast-casual bistro nestled in Lincoln Park, the initial hesitation stems from the intriguing, unconventional service model. Is bypassing the queue and heading straight for the bar a breach of unspoken dining etiquette?
As it turns out, bar seats at John’s Food & Wine are indeed fair game for those without reservations, a fact confirmed when a group arriving after us promptly occupied the coveted stools. They then proceeded to enjoy a dining experience more akin to traditional restaurant service. But for those seeking a table at this Lincoln Park newcomer, the process begins with joining a line in front of a countertop tablet. Here, beverage director and sommelier Jonas Bittencourt, on the night of my visit, expertly managed the queue, taking complete, coursed dinner orders in one efficient, yet slightly rushed, interaction. Following this, you’re guided to your table to embark on a self-guided wine pairing adventure via a QR code that unlocks the Toast digital menu. Notably, traditional servers are absent. Instead, a dedicated team led by co-owners and chefs Adam McFarland and Thomas Rogers orchestrates a seamless, albeit fast-paced, service across all roles – a dynamic reflected in the automatic 20 percent service charge added to each bill at John’s Food & Wine.
Throughout my meal at John’s Food & Wine, the absence of personalized, human interaction was palpable. This wasn’t solely due to the restaurant’s focus on an ever-evolving and fascinating wine selection, each deserving of a story and personal recommendation. It was also evident in the hurried rhythm of course delivery and the unsettling feeling that the primary conductor of our dining experience was the restaurant’s Point of Sale (POS) system. A longing for those unhurried moments, like leisurely browsing a physical menu while sipping a pre-dinner drink, lingered throughout the evening at John’s Food & Wine.
Located in the former Nookies space on a chic stretch of Halsted Street, John’s Food & Wine emanates a timeless charm. The interior, narrow and warmly illuminated, features cream and whitewashed brick walls, complemented by wooden floors and plush banquettes in a soft wheat hue. Yet, the streamlined service model leaves little time for leisurely appreciation of the ambiance. Dinner decisions needed to be swift. Despite arriving at peak dinner hour, 7:30 pm, the queue moved efficiently, and surprisingly, no wait for a table was necessary. The marquee menu board on the right wall presented a concise selection of approachable, French-American inspired dishes. These, as I soon discovered at John’s Food & Wine, were characterized by remarkable finesse and nuanced complexity. After expertly curating a selection of seven dishes for sharing, as per his recommendation, Bittencourt escorted my companion and me to our table. Positioned near the back of the dining room, adjacent to a VIP table, our seating unfortunately highlighted a stark contrast in service styles throughout our meal at John’s Food & Wine.
The experience at John’s Food & Wine began with the whippy, silken chicken liver mousse. It proved to be exceptionally unctuous when generously spread on charred toast. The mousse was beautifully complemented by a sweet and sharp quince mostarda, finished with a peppery cress. Unless shellfish allergies are a concern, the lobster salad is unequivocally a must-order at John’s Food & Wine. The lobster itself was impeccably cooked – supple and sweet – nestled atop a bed of melted leek aioli. This was then covered with a generous scattering of fresh herbs, described as “millions,” which elevated the dish with floral and anise notes, enhancing its inherent buttery richness. In a moment of menu-induced mild panic at the counter, I opted for the first house white that caught my eye to preempt endless digital scrolling – a crisp and invigorating muscadet from the Loire Valley, a choice that perfectly complemented the initial courses at John’s Food & Wine.
As runners swiftly delivered the subsequent courses – scallops and the decadent maitake and truffle canestri – they made two attempts to clear the chicken liver mousse, even after we expressed our intention to continue enjoying it. We eventually conceded when the arrival of the beef fat fries left no remaining table space. (And yes, oversized plates are indeed making a significant comeback at restaurants like John’s Food & Wine).
Speaking of the substantial beef fat fries at John’s Food & Wine, the $13 price tag might initially raise eyebrows. However, the first bite justifies every penny. A symphony of crunch unfolds, a result of a meticulous process involving freezing and frying thick cuts of starchy Kennebec potatoes. The chefs’ expertise in preparing seafood was further validated by the tender, medium-rare scallops. They were delicately bathed in an enticing pastis crema and artfully adorned with pickled raisins and creamy, crushed hazelnuts. In contrast, the mustard-tinged chicken breast, served in a velvety brodo with spaetzle, was unfortunately oversalted and somewhat missed the mark. My dining companion speculated that a more delicate fish might have been better suited to this preparation, a sentiment I readily echoed regarding this dish at John’s Food & Wine.
As previously mentioned, John’s Food & Wine‘s wine list is both delightful and dynamic, constantly evolving. The intriguing “whatever’s open” option, which can change multiple times throughout an evening, is a testament to this. However, at $20 per glass, opting for this on the initial app-ordered round felt a bit too adventurous. Midway through our final course, Bittencourt returned to clear our empty wine glasses and inquire if we desired anything further. Although I didn’t, the genuine warmth of human hospitality was so welcome that I asked about the “whatever’s open” selection. A peppery, kirsch-like Pineau d’Aunis red was indeed worth the $20, though perhaps not the small additional bank fee incurred the following morning.
Perhaps the service style at John’s Food & Wine is a natural progression in a society increasingly comfortable with digital interactions replacing human ones in everyday transactions. Factor in the escalating operational costs for independent restaurants to provide a living wage, coupled with a post-pandemic society more accustomed to minimal contact, and the future of dining might well lean towards scaled-down service models like this. If this becomes the trend, then seeking out those open barstools at places like John’s Food & Wine will become an even more frequent strategy for a satisfying and less digitally mediated dining experience.
John’s Food & Wine: Quick Bites
The food: Uncomplicated yet refined bistro fare graces both the lunch and (pricier) dinner menus at John’s Food & Wine. Standout dishes include handmade pastas and seafood, particularly the luxurious scallops with pastis crema and the refreshing lobster salad. Hearty lunch options, priced up to $18, feature items like roasted chicken salad with little gem and blue cheese, and a fried branzino sandwich. Regardless of the time of day, ordering a side of the beef fat fries is non-negotiable at John’s Food & Wine.
The drink: The wine selection, available by the glass, carafe, and bottle at John’s Food & Wine, is fresh, interesting, and accompanied by playfully descriptive notes. While the Toast app’s extensive wine list might feel overwhelming, seeking a recommendation when ordering at the counter or opting to dine at the bar are both highly recommended strategies to navigate the choices.
The vibe: The counter-service ordering system is well-suited for an efficient lunch at John’s Food & Wine, but it can contribute to a slightly rushed and impersonal dinner atmosphere within this otherwise charming neighborhood bistro.
