For culinary enthusiasts seeking authentic and diverse flavors, the cuisine of Kerala, a state on India’s southwest coast, is rapidly moving into the spotlight in America. Far beyond the stereotypical “curry-paratha-rice” experience often associated with Indian food, Kerala Food presents a unique tapestry of tastes and traditions that are now being celebrated across the United States.
One of the most common misconceptions is to lump all South Indian cuisines together. While there are shared threads, each of the five South Indian states – Kerala, Karnataka, Tamil Nadu, Andhra Pradesh, and Telangana – boasts its own distinct culinary identity. Kerala, known for its lush backwaters, coconut palms, and spice gardens, offers a cuisine that is as vibrant and unique as its landscape. From the use of coconut oil and fragrant spices to an abundance of seafood and tropical fruits, Kerala food stands apart, offering a culinary journey unlike any other in India.
This distinctive character of Kerala cuisine is increasingly being recognized and appreciated in America. Chef Hari Nayak of Sona, a renowned pan-Indian restaurant in New York City, notes this shift. “In the last two years in America, especially in areas such as New York, San Francisco, and maybe also in Houston, there has been a shift in the mainstream understanding of Indian cuisine,” he explains. “It’s moving on from an old-school understanding to a more regional approach.” This growing appreciation signifies a move beyond generalized Indian food, embracing the nuanced regional cuisines, with Kerala at the forefront.
Nayak, originally from Udupi in Karnataka, a region famed for iconic South Indian dishes like idli, vada, and dosa, ensures his menu at Sona prominently features Kerala’s culinary gems. Diners can savor Kerala-style beef, the flavorful Alleppey fish curry, slow-cooked beef short ribs, flaky parotta, and Malabari chicken biryani prepared with aromatic kaima rice. His menu reflects the growing demand for authentic Kerala food experiences in fine dining settings.
The buzz around Semma, a newly opened South Indian restaurant in NYC led by Chef Vijay Kumar, further emphasizes this trend. Semma is lauded for its traditional cooking and Kerala specialties such as meen pollichathu (seafood wrapped and steamed in banana leaves), creamy chemmeen moilee (turmeric and coconut milk-based shrimp curry), and parotta, the iconic flaky bread of Kerala. The accolades for Semma and other restaurants highlight the increasing appetite for genuine Kerala flavors among American diners.
This surge in popularity can be attributed, in part, to the efforts of South Indian chefs who have been passionately showcasing Kerala’s culinary richness. Chefs like Suresh Pillai, Rakesh Raghunathan, Thomas Zacharias, Chalapathi Rao, Regi Mathew, and Naren Thimmaiah have actively promoted Kerala food through social media and their restaurant menus. Their dedication has sparked a wider appreciation for regional Indian cuisines, extending to the Western palate.
Kerala’s culinary heritage is a fascinating blend of influences from its diverse communities. The Nambudiris, a Brahmin community, influenced the cuisine with their preference for “sattvic” foods, avoiding garlic and onion, leading to dishes like kurukku (millet porridge), kalan (yogurt-based yam and plantain curry), and avial (mixed vegetable stew). The Nair community, traditionally landowners, favored dishes like mambazha pulissery (mango yogurt curry) and kootu curry (plantain and yam with lentils). The Ezhava community contributed dishes like theeyal (shallot and coconut curry) and puttu cherupayar (steamed rice cakes with green gram). Beyond Hindu influences, Syrian Christians and Moplah Muslims have enriched Kerala food with meat-centric dishes such as rich mutton stew and flavorful beef cutlets.
Today, experiencing these diverse Kerala flavors in America is becoming increasingly accessible, from fine dining establishments to innovative pop-ups. Chef Hemant Kishore, based in Las Vegas, observed this growing market and launched Toddy Shop in 2016, aiming to recreate the unique experience of Kerala’s toddy shops in America. Toddy shops in Kerala are casual eateries serving palm wine and spicy side dishes known as “touchings”. Kishore’s Toddy Shop offered dishes like karimeen pollichathu (pearl spot fish in banana leaf), netholi fry (anchovy fry), and squid thoran (squid stir-fry), alongside familiar American fare, bridging the gap for diners. Similarly, Shirley’s India in New Rochelle, New York, offers Kerala-style fried chicken sliders and mutta omelet alongside international snacks, demonstrating the versatility and appeal of Kerala flavors.
When renowned Indian chef Manish Mehrotra opened Indian Accent in New York, he recognized the importance of including Kerala food on his menu. “Kerala, as a destination, has always attracted international tourists, and the food from this region is delicate and robust at the same time,” he states. Mehrotra appreciates working with high-quality American produce while ensuring authenticity by sourcing key spices like kanthari chilies and Malabar peppercorns directly from India.
The chefs championing Kerala food in America are deeply committed to authentic representation, moving away from homogenized “Indian curry” stereotypes. As Chef Kishore notes, “I refrain from using the words ‘authentic Indian’ because I believe recipes and techniques are unique to families and households.” He emphasizes the regional variations within Kerala itself, where a biryani in Kannur differs from one in Kozhikode. These chefs see it as their responsibility to educate diners about the nuances and regionality of Kerala cuisine. For them, maintaining authenticity often involves consulting family, ensuring the true essence of Kerala food is preserved and shared with American audiences.
Kerala food’s rise in America is not just a culinary trend; it’s a cultural exchange, bringing the rich flavors and traditions of this South Indian state to a wider audience, promising a flavorful and exciting journey for American food lovers.
