La Food Marketa, nestled in Quarry Lake, presents a novel dining experience, skillfully blending the comforting flavors of North and Latin America. Spearheaded by chef John “Johntay” Bedingfield and Gauss, this restaurant attempts to carve its own niche in Baltimore’s vibrant food scene. Imagine indulging in Reuben Empanadas, a playful twist on a classic, or savoring duck breast paired unexpectedly with yucca spaetzle. The concept is undeniably intriguing, yet La Food Marketa is still on its journey to achieving the acclaimed status of establishments like The Food Market. However, with some thoughtful refinements, it certainly holds the potential to reach those heights.
Stepping into La Food Marketa, you’re greeted by a brightly lit, white-dominated dining space. The energetic atmosphere, complete with an open kitchen and bar to one side and vibrant artwork adorning the walls, leans towards a family-friendly vibe, perfectly suited for the Quarry Lake neighborhood. However, as evening descends, the ambiance feels somewhat too stark, almost reminiscent of a fast-food setting. This brightness contrasts sharply with the restaurant’s ambitious menu and its corresponding price range. Dimmer lighting and the soft glow of candles could significantly enhance the dining experience, aligning the atmosphere more closely with the culinary aspirations.
Price points at La Food Marketa also warrant a closer look, particularly in relation to certain dishes. An $18 entree featuring three modestly sized tacos left a dining companion questioning its value, especially when compared to a more substantial and satisfying $28 tenderloin tostada. The tostada, a generous offering of beautifully cooked beef and refried potatoes, complemented by charred vegetables, highlighted a disparity in portion and perceived value. While the fillings of the tacos—mahi mahi, lamb barbacoa, and charred steak—were diverse, they unfortunately fell short, described as “soggy and nondescript.” Similarly, a visually appealing stuffed-squash entree, filled with roasted corn and pinto beans, promised a rich flavor profile that ultimately didn’t fully materialize, lacking the depth and complexity one might expect from its presentation.
