Most visitors to the night market on Sisavangvong Road in Luang Prabang, Laos, are captivated by the vibrant displays of T-shirts and handcrafted souvenirs. However, my quest led me deeper, into the smoky alleyways where the true culinary heart of Laos beats. While grilled fish and chicken wings on bamboo skewers were tempting, my focus was unwavering: I was searching for sai oua, a blistered pork sausage that promised an authentic taste of Laotian Food.
One bite of sai oua was a revelation. Despite its rustic appearance, the sausage exploded with flavor, a complex blend of ginger and fresh herbs, a delightful contrast to its slightly coarse texture. This initial encounter perfectly encapsulates Laotian cuisine: often understated in presentation, yet intensely flavorful, a testament to Laos’ mastery of harmonizing herbs, chilies, and the unique tang of fermented ingredients. Laotian food, while still emerging on the international culinary scene, is a treasure trove of unique tastes waiting to be discovered.
Historically, Laotian food has remained somewhat under the radar in the United States and globally, overshadowed by its more famous Southeast Asian neighbors. However, this is changing. Pioneering Lao restaurants such as Thip Khao in Washington, D.C., and Hawker Fare in San Francisco are garnering attention and accolades from both food critics and adventurous diners alike. Chef Seng Luangrath, the chef and co-owner of Thip Khao, notes a growing trend of Lao restaurants opening across the US. Lao and Isan Thai chefs, with their backgrounds in traditional Thai cuisine, are finding that the bold and vibrant flavors of their heritage resonate with an increasingly curious American palate seeking authentic and exciting culinary experiences.
Laos: A Culinary Landscape Shaped by History and Culture
The Lao People’s Democratic Republic, while geographically smaller than the state of Oregon, boasts a rich history and cultural tapestry that profoundly influences its cuisine. Historically, Laos encompassed a much larger territory. During the French colonial era in Southeast Asia, the Mekong River was arbitrarily designated as the border between Thailand and Laos. This decision effectively cleaved off a significant portion of Laos, transforming it into the Isan region of modern-day Thailand. This historical division has created a fascinating interplay between Laotian food and Isan cuisine.
Chef James Syhabout, owner of Hawker Fare and author of Hawker Fare: Stories & Recipes From a Refugee Chef’s Isan Thai & Lao Roots, a seminal work on the region’s food, emphasizes the deep connection between Lao and Isan culinary traditions. At Hawker Fare, Syhabout showcases both Lao and Isan Thai dishes, reflecting his family’s cultural heritage. He explains that the food of Laos and Isan are intrinsically linked, stating, “The border’s just a political border. One-third of Thailand is people from Isan, and they’re culturally Lao.” This shared cultural and culinary heritage means that exploring Laotian food also offers a glimpse into the vibrant food culture of Northeastern Thailand.
The Hallmarks of Laotian Cuisine: Fresh Herbs and Bold Flavors
Laotian food, alongside Isan cuisine, is characterized by a generous use of fresh herbs, a wide array of vegetables, and a distinctive appreciation for bitter flavors. Ingredients like thinly sliced banana flower, frequently found in dishes such as naem khao and laab, impart a subtle bitterness and delicate floral notes. Similarly, raw Thai eggplant adds both bitterness and a satisfying textural element. A well-stocked Laotian pantry is abundant with fresh bamboo shoots, fragrant ginger, galangal, and a profusion of fresh herbs, including mint, cilantro, makrut lime leaf, and dill. These fresh ingredients are the cornerstones of authentic Laotian food.
Syhabout highlights the inherent simplicity and robust spiciness of Laotian dishes compared to some Thai cuisines. He notes, “The foods are simpler; they’re not as elaborate [as in Thai cuisine]. It’s also a lot spicier, using dried chiles.” While coconut milk occasionally appears in Laotian and Isan cooking, the rich, sweet, coconut-milk-based sauces that are often associated with Thai cuisine are generally absent in traditional Laotian food. This emphasis on fresh herbs, vegetables, and fiery spices creates a unique and invigorating culinary identity for Laotian food.
While dedicated Laotian restaurants remain relatively scarce outside of Laos, opportunities to experience authentic Laotian flavors are increasing. If you are fortunate enough to find a Lao restaurant or a Thai restaurant specializing in Northern Thai (which often includes Isan-influenced dishes), be sure to explore these quintessential Laotian food specialties:
Khao Niew (Sticky Rice): The Heart of the Laotian Table
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Rice is arguably the most fundamental element of Laotian food, forming the very foundation of every meal. It’s often the first dish that aspiring home cooks, traditionally women, learn to prepare. Chef Luangrath, for instance, learned the art of making khao niew, or sticky rice, from her grandmother, a cherished culinary tradition passed down through generations.
Laos is a country of diverse ethnicities, with over 40 distinct groups, each with unique culinary preferences. While some mountain tribes may favor non-glutinous rice, sticky rice reigns supreme for the majority of Lao people. Chef Syhabout explains that this preference stems from the traditional practice of eating with hands. “Sticky rice is like a utensil,” he notes, drawing a parallel to injera, the fermented bread of Ethiopia, highlighting its role in scooping and enjoying other dishes.
In Laos, sticky rice is traditionally steamed in a thip khao, a woven bamboo basket specifically designed for this purpose. These flexible baskets, known as “rice baskets,” range in size from individual portions to family-sized vessels. While larger thip khaos are typically used for cooking, restaurants often employ smaller, more ornate versions as serving dishes, adding a touch of traditional elegance to the presentation of Laotian food.
Laotian sticky rice is usually a medium-grain, pearlescent white variety, although various types exist. It is commonly steamed in a triangular thip khao suspended over boiling water. Alternatively, steamed sticky rice can be shaped into thin cakes and deep-fried to create delightfully crispy rice cakes, showcasing the versatility of this staple ingredient in Laotian food.
Jaew Bong (Hot Pepper Dip): A Laotian Condiment with Depth
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Jaew bong is a quintessential Laotian condiment, a complex and flavorful paste made from fish sauce, palm sugar, dried chilies, garlic, shallots, and tamarind. This mixture is carefully fried in oil and then simmered at low temperature, allowing the flavors to meld and deepen, resulting in a sticky, slightly sweet, and subtly spicy spread that is a cornerstone of Laotian food. Traditionally, jaew bong incorporates dried strips of water buffalo skin, adding a unique chewiness that is difficult to replicate outside of Laos due to the scarcity of water buffalo skin in the United States.
Chef Boby Pradachith of Thip Khao describes jaew bong as an “all-purpose sauce” that accompanies almost every Laotian meal. Thip Khao serves jaew bong at the beginning of each meal with an assortment of fresh, raw vegetables. However, Pradachith emphasizes its versatility, noting that jaew bong is equally delicious with plain sticky rice or any readily available dish, making it a staple in Laotian food culture.
Muu Haeng and Siin Haeng (Sun-Dried Pork and Beef): Laotian Jerky with a Twist
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Muu haeng and siin haeng represent the Laotian variations of sun-dried meat, typically pork shoulder for muu haeng and a flavorful, fatty cut like top round for siin haeng. Both meats are thinly sliced and marinated in a rich blend of fish sauce, black soy sauce, oyster sauce, and aromatic chopped cilantro, lemongrass, garlic, ginger, and galangal. This marinade not only infuses the meat with complex flavors but also tenderizes it.
Chef Pradachith explains that in Laos, muu haeng and siin haeng are traditionally air-dried on rooftops, harnessing the intense tropical sunlight to aid the drying process. While similar to jerky, Laotian sun-dried meat develops a unique tacky and chewy texture that might be unfamiliar to Western palates. Pradachith suggests briefly deep-frying the meat to temper the chewiness. Muu haeng and siin haeng are frequently enjoyed as snacks alongside jaew bong or paired with sticky rice for a more substantial Laotian food experience.
Sai Oua (Herbal Pork Sausage): Aromatic Laotian Sausage
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Sai oua, the herbal pork sausage that initially drew me into the Luang Prabang night market, exemplifies the depth of flavor in Laotian food. While not always fermented, sai oua showcases how fermentation can elevate even simple dishes. It’s made with a mixture of ground pork and a generous amount of fat, often from pork belly or boiled pork skin. The meat is combined with fragrant lemongrass, galangal, ginger, and garlic before being stuffed into natural casings. Fermented versions of sai oua incorporate white rice into the mixture before stuffing, providing the necessary starches and sugars for bacterial fermentation. The sausages are then left to ferment for one to two weeks, developing a subtle sour tang that beautifully complements the other aromatic flavors in this iconic Laotian food.
Tam Muk Muang (Green Mango Salad): A Refreshing Laotian Salad
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While green papaya salad is prevalent in both Thailand and Laos, the Laotian version often features unripe yellow mango, known as tam muk muang. Even before ripening, the mango flesh retains a vibrant yellow hue and a satisfying crunch, providing a fresh sour note distinct from green papaya. Tam muk muang combines shredded green mango with tomatoes, garlic, and cashews, typically dressed with a mixture of soy sauce and fish sauce for salty and savory notes, balanced by the sweetness of palm sugar. Given the generally intense flavors of Laotian food, tam muk muang is often prepared with a slightly milder seasoning to offer a refreshing contrast within a multi-dish meal.
Naem Khao (Crispy Coconut Rice): A Vientiane Specialty
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Naem khao, a celebrated specialty from Vientiane, the capital and largest city of Laos, is a textural and flavorful explosion. This crispy rice salad is a vibrant mix of salt-cured ground pork, pig skin, steamed and dried white rice, and dried shredded coconut. The coconut adds both texture and richness, while also absorbing the tangy fish sauce and lime juice dressing. Scrambled egg further enriches the dish, and ground herbs provide aromatic balance. Fresh red curry paste contributes floral notes and a hint of fruitiness. The entire mixture is wok-fried to achieve a satisfying crispness. Naem khao is often served with crisp Bibb lettuce leaves, which act as both a cooling counterpoint and edible wraps, enhancing the interactive and enjoyable nature of Laotian food.
Laab Ped (Minced Duck Salad): Laos’s National Dish
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Often hailed as the national dish of Laos, laab (also frequently spelled “larb” on Thai menus) is a vibrant salad of ground meat and fresh herbs. Laotian laab is characteristically seasoned with fish sauce and lime juice and topped with khao kua, a powder made from toasted and ground rice. Laab ped, a duck variation popular in Vientiane and southern Laos, features hand-chopped deboned duck crisped in a wok, then tossed with fish sauce, dark soy sauce, roasted dried chilies, and lime juice. Fried shallots, garlic, and a medley of herbs are added to balance the richness of the duck and savory fat. Mint leaves and toasted rice powder provide fresh flavor and textural contrast. Laab ped is traditionally scooped up with lettuce leaves, cucumber, and raw Thai eggplant, the small, firm eggplants adding a subtle bitterness that complements the savory laab, showcasing the balance of flavors in Laotian food.
Khao Soi (Rice Noodle Soup with Fermented Soybean-Tomato Sauce): A Northern Laotian Noodle Delight
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Khao soi, meaning “cut noodle,” is a beloved noodle soup found in both Isan and northern Laos. Chef Luangrath recounts discovering khao soi during a visit to her sister in northern Laos. “I’d never had it, and she happened to make it that day, and I was like, ‘What is this, is this Lao food? I didn’t know this kind of noodle existed in Laos.’”
Laotian khao soi features fresh, wide-cut rice noodles bathed in a flavorful broth made from chicken bones and herbs. The soup is topped with a unique sauce made from tomatoes, vinegar, palm sugar, chili powder, and thua nao, a distinctive Lao fermented soybean paste incorporating chili paste. Thua nao imparts a deeply umami flavor, similar to Korean ssamjang. Luangrath notes that thua nao is a regional specialty originating from Muang Sing, near the Chinese border. “It’s very funky and intense in flavor because it’s fermented for months and months,” she explains, highlighting the depth of flavor characteristic of Laotian food. Common toppings for khao soi include scallions, cilantro, watercress, and water spinach, allowing for customization and freshness.
Gaeng Som (Chicken Soup with Fish Sauce and Tamarind): A Tangy Laotian Soup
Gaeng som, literally translating to “sour soup,” is another staple of Laotian food. The base is often a simple chicken broth, but Chef Luangrath explains it can be adapted to utilize any available leftover meat or bones. Gaeng som often complements laab, using the less desirable parts of the chicken or duck after the prime cuts are used for the salad, demonstrating resourceful cooking practices in Laotian food.
The defining sourness of gaeng som comes from tamarind pulp, balanced by a touch of sugar and seasoned with fish sauce. At Thip Khao, Luangrath prepares a chicken version, featuring chicken thigh and leg meat, garnished with green onion, dried chili, Thai basil, lemongrass, and hon shimeji mushrooms. These delicate mushrooms, with their small brown caps and slender white stalks, add a refined touch to this hearty and flavorful Laotian soup.
Khao Poon (Soup with Fermented Noodles): Laotian Noodle Soup with Regional Variations
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Khao poon refers to fermented rice vermicelli noodles, but the complete dish varies across regions and even between towns, showcasing the diverse regionality within Laotian food. Chef Syhabout describes khao poon nam prik as a chicken-broth soup with a red curry base enriched with coconut milk. Luangrath describes khao poon nahm kaew as a similar soup, but without coconut milk and based on either pork or fish broth. Common accompaniments to khao poon include shaved cabbage, mung bean sprouts, banana blossom, snake beans, lettuce, and dried chilies, along with fresh herbs like mint. Diners typically add these garnishes to their preference, customizing their bowl of Laotian food. Shrimp paste is often served on the side, either to be added to the soup or used as a dip for the accompanying vegetables, further enhancing the flavor profile of khao poon.
Gaeng Naw Mai (Bamboo and Yanang Leaf Stew): A Unique Laotian Stew
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Gaeng naw mai is a distinctive Laotian stew featuring bamboo shoots and flavored with yanang leaf extract. Luangrath describes yanang leaf, native to Southeast Asia, as having a flavor reminiscent of spinach. While the leaves themselves are too fibrous to eat, they are steeped in water and rubbed to extract their flavorful juices. This yanang extract forms the base of the stew, along with bamboo shoots, garlic, chilies, and padaek, an intensely flavored, unfiltered fish sauce. Luangrath and Pradachith characterize padaek as significantly stronger and funkier than typical fish sauce, often containing small pieces of fermented fish. The remaining ingredients in gaeng naw mai are highly variable, depending on availability, and can include greens, wild mushrooms, various herbs, meats like pork or fish, dried fish skin, and quail eggs, showcasing the adaptable and resourceful nature of Laotian food.
Piing Hua Jai Kai (Grilled Chicken Hearts): A Laotian Street Food Snack
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Piing hua jai kai, grilled chicken hearts, are a popular street food snack in Laos, often found on skewers alongside other grilled offal. The chicken hearts, roughly the size of a quarter, are trimmed, butterflied, and marinated overnight in a flavorful blend of lemongrass, galangal, ginger, garlic, fish sauce, soy sauce, oyster sauce, and palm sugar. Ideally, they are grilled to medium-rare and served hot and tender, as their texture deteriorates when cold. The flavor should be minerally and fresh, with a pleasantly chewy texture, free from gristle or cartilage. Any funky taste or unpleasant texture may indicate precooked and reheated hearts, highlighting the importance of freshness in enjoying authentic Laotian food.
Muu Som (Rice-Fermented Sour Pork): A Laotian Fermented Pork Delicacy
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Muu som, rice-fermented sour pork, is a testament to the spectacular potential of fermented meats in Laotian food. Raw pork belly is massaged and marinated for about three weeks in a wet mixture of cold steamed rice, garlic, vinegar, salt, sugar, and water. After fermentation, the pork is roasted until cooked through and then wok-charred with dark soy sauce, ginger, garlic, onion, bell pepper, and mushrooms. This process crisps the fat while keeping the meat tender.
While the idea of deliberately fermenting meat might seem unusual, muu som, even more so than sai oua, showcases the exceptional flavors that fermentation can unlock. The inherent umami richness of cured pork fat is amplified by fermentation. The addition of herbs and dark soy sauce, combined with mushrooms, further enhances the meaty depth of the dish. Served with sticky rice, makrut lime, fried shallots, and dried chilies, muu som is a truly unforgettable Laotian food experience. Despite the Western preference for utensils, muu som is best enjoyed by hand with sticky rice, allowing you to fully savor every morsel of fermented pork fat.
Paa Tod (Crispy Catfish): Riverside Flavors of Laos
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Despite being landlocked, Laos is rich in rivers, including the Mekong, making catfish a readily available and popular ingredient. Paa tod, crispy catfish, is a testament to Laotian culinary creativity with river fish. While catfish is prepared in various ways in Laos, including steaming and stews, paa tod features catfish fillets coated in rice flour and fried to golden crisp perfection. A vibrant dressing of fish sauce, chilies, palm sugar, garlic, and lime juice creates a bright and zesty counterpoint to the rich fried fish. Sliced red onion and yellow mango are common additions, and toppings often include fresh mint leaves and toasted cashews. At Thip Khao, Luangrath adds diced avocado, a non-traditional but inspired addition, whose creaminess complements the acidity of the dressing and the crispy fish batter, creating a harmonious and modern take on Laotian food.
Laotian food, with its bold flavors, fresh ingredients, and unique culinary traditions, is poised to capture the attention of food lovers worldwide. From the bustling night markets to innovative restaurants, the unassuming yet intensely flavorful cuisine of Laos offers a truly rewarding and delicious culinary adventure.
