Long Beach, my home for nearly seven years, has been a delightful exploration of diverse cuisines. Yet, until recently, the vibrant culinary scene of Cambodia Town remained somewhat unexplored territory for me. Questions lingered: What are the must-try dishes? How does Cambodian cuisine distinguish itself from its Southeast Asian neighbors like Vietnamese or Thai?
Perhaps subconsciously, I was waiting for the perfect guide to illuminate the nuances of this rich culinary heritage. That opportunity arose when James Tir, the food-savvy Instagram influencer behind Long Beach Food Coma (@LBFoodComa), reached out with an invitation: a tasting tour through the heart of Cambodia Town’s restaurants. My answer was an immediate and enthusiastic yes.
From left, food editor Gab Chabrán and Long Beach food influencer James Tir, experiencing Khmer cuisine at Monorom.
James, a Cambodian-American Long Beach native, is deeply immersed in the city’s food scene and possesses the intimate knowledge of Khmer cuisine I sought. He was, without a doubt, the ideal culinary sherpa.
As we embarked on our tour, James shared the historical context of Long Beach’s Cambodia Town. He explained how, during the 1970s and 80s, Long Beach became a haven for Cambodians fleeing the horrors of the Khmer Rouge regime. Like many immigrant communities, they brought with them the soul of their culture: their traditional cuisine.
Cambodian cooking, he elaborated, is a reflection of its geography – the lush rice paddies, dense tropical jungles, and the life-giving Mekong River. Key ingredients like lemongrass, tamarind, and the intensely flavored prahok (fermented mudfish) are foundational to its distinctive character.
While Thai and Vietnamese cuisines often serve as the primary point of reference for Southeast Asian flavors, James emphasized the unique identity of Cambodian food.
“It’s less about subtle balances and more about embracing a spectrum of bold flavors in a single meal,” he noted. “Cambodian cuisine isn’t afraid to explore bitter and acrid notes, harmonizing with, rather than masking, the intensity of these elements.”
With this insightful introduction, our culinary adventure through Cambodia Town began.
Exploring Cambodia Town: A Hub of Khmer Culture
Cambodia Town, stretching 1.2 miles along Anaheim Street between Atlantic and Junipero Avenues, is a testament to the resilience and cultural richness of the Khmer diaspora. It stands as the largest Cambodian population center in the United States. Many Cambodians sought refuge in Long Beach in the 1980s, escaping the brutal Khmer Rouge regime and building a new life while preserving their heritage.
Battambong BBQ (Smoked Twako): A Cambodian-Texan Culinary Fusion
Chef Chad Phuong, “The Cambodian Cowboy,” crafting his unique BBQ at Battambong BBQ pop-up.
James’s Take:
You can’t discuss Cambodian-American food without acknowledging Chad “The Cambodian Cowboy” Phuong and his innovative Cambodian-Texan fusion. Chad’s remarkable journey, from the war-torn Cambodian countryside to the Texas panhandle and finally to Long Beach, has imbued his smoked meats with a distinctive Khmer twist.
His brisket gets a spicy kick from Kampot black pepper, a variety known for its sharper bite compared to the more common Tellicherry. The pork belly is a symphony of flavors – soy sauce, caramelized sugar, ginger, and star anise dancing on your palate. But the real star, the showstopper, is the twako.
Twako is a traditional Khmer sausage made with ground beef, galangal, and rice. Galangal, related to ginger but more floral, adds a unique depth, while the rice ferments the sausage, lending a pleasant acidic tang.
Traditionally grilled, Chad elevates the twako by smoking it, adding another layer of complexity to this already intriguing sausage. The casing provides a satisfying snap, yielding to a flavorful explosion with each bite.
A delicious combo plate at Battambong BBQ featuring the signature Twako sausage and other smoked meats.
Gab’s Perspective:
I had previously encountered Battambong BBQ at one of Chad’s pop-ups around Long Beach. Since 2022, he’s been sharing his culinary creations at various locations and regularly at Smorgasburg LA every Sunday.
While our focus was the twako, Chad generously offered a taste of his barbecue arsenal, including beef sausage, brisket, and tri-tip. For me, the pork belly ends were particularly memorable – small, caramelized cubes with a sweet exterior and juicy interior.
However, the twako truly captivated me. It possessed earthy umami notes, reminiscent of mushrooms, with a subtle sweetness that hinted at morcilla (Spanish blood sausage), but with a unique twist. The smoking process elevated the sausage to an entirely new dimension.
Phnom Penh Noodle Shack (Beef Stew Noodles): A Taste of Khmer Culinary History
James’s Recommendation:
Nestled on the northwestern edge of Cambodia Town is the unassuming yet iconic Phnom Penh Noodle Shack. Established in 1985, it holds the distinction of being the first Cambodian restaurant in the area, serving comforting bowls of noodles to the burgeoning Khmer community. While famous for its namesake Phnom Penh noodles, a close relative of Vietnamese pho, my personal favorite is the beef stew noodles, or khor ko.
This dish reveals French colonial influences, drawing inspiration from beef bourguignon, yet infused with distinctly Southeast Asian flavors – lemongrass, star anise, and fish sauce, beautifully balanced with the acidity of tomato paste. The broth, rich with collagen, cradles tender pieces of tripe, tendon, and braised beef alongside delicate rice noodles.
Paired with cha quai, crispy, deep-fried bread perfect for soaking up the flavorful broth, khor ko reaches another level of culinary satisfaction.
Inside Phnom Penh Noodle Shack, a Long Beach culinary institution.
Gab’s Experience:
James truly expanded my culinary horizons with this dish. I initially anticipated something akin to Taiwanese beef noodle soup, but khor ko was distinctly different. A generous bowl of deep red broth arrived, brimming with rice noodles and tripe. James, noticing my contemplation, smiled and offered a familiar comparison: “It’s like menudo.”
He was spot on. The substantial tripe and beef chunks perfectly absorbed the tangy, starchy broth, and the collagen from the tendon imparted a luxurious viscosity. Each spoonful was a comforting embrace. It possessed a deeply restorative quality, the ideal remedy for, shall we say, a late night.
- Location: 1644 Cherry Ave., Long Beach
- Hours: Tuesday through Sunday, 7 AM to 3 PM
Pho Hong Phat (Banh Sung): Cambodian Twists on Familiar Flavors
James’s Insight:
Pho Hong Phat, despite its name suggesting a Vietnamese noodle house, is a Cambodian-owned establishment that serves exceptional Vietnamese pho alongside hidden Khmer culinary gems. Venture beyond the pho section to discover the “not pho” menu, where you’ll find Phnom Penh noodle soup, Hainan chicken rice, and the delightful banh sung.
Banh sung is Cambodia’s answer to Vietnamese bún chả giò – a vermicelli noodle salad featuring crispy fried egg rolls. It’s a vibrant bowl of textures and flavors, combining vermicelli noodles with fresh greens, herbs, shredded carrots, and savory grilled marinated pork.
Like bún chả giò, it’s served with nuoc cham (sweet fish sauce), chili sauce, and crushed peanuts. However, the Khmer version distinguishes itself with a generous drizzle of coconut milk infused with chopped green onion. This addition softens the intensity of the fish sauce, creating a bright umami flavor that gently coats the palate.
Pho Hong Phat’s Banh Sung, a refreshing Cambodian vermicelli noodle salad.
Gab’s Takeaway:
I’ve frequented Pho Hong Phat before, often drawn in by the intoxicating aroma of pho broth simmering from early morning. They open at 8 AM, catering to those seeking a comforting hot breakfast soup. Stopping for coffee at Good Time, a beloved local cafe across the street (a favorite of both James and myself), I’m often tempted by the enticing scents wafting over.
Previously, I had only sampled their pho. James, however, guided me to the “not pho” section, revealing the Khmer options. The addition of coconut milk to the banh sung was a revelation, adding a new dimension to this cold noodle dish. The smooth, creamy coconut milk beautifully balanced the fresh greens, crunchy peanuts, and savory egg rolls.
The welcoming storefront of Pho Hong Phat in Long Beach.
- Location: 3243 E Anaheim St, Long Beach
- Hours: Monday-Tuesday, Thursday-Sunday 8 AM to 5 PM (Closed Wednesday)
A & J Seafood Shack (Lemongrass Beef Sticks): Khmer Flavors in a Casual Setting
James’s Background:
For years, I worked at Hak Heang, a Long Beach Cambodian-Chinese seafood banquet hall that was a cornerstone of the Khmer community since the early 90s. From weddings to graduations, it was the go-to spot for special occasions, where you’d indulge in wok-fired lobster or crab, bursting with jalapeño heat and MSG, while celebrating with generous pours of Hennessy cognac.
A & J Seafood Shack takes that celebratory seafood concept and makes it accessible in takeout form. They offer those revered dishes, perhaps sans cognac, in a more relaxed, casual setting.
While primarily a seafood spot with Viet-Cajun boils, A & J remains deeply rooted in Khmer cuisine, featuring both lemongrass beef sticks and twako on their menu alongside the seafood.
Lemongrass beef sticks are a staple on most Khmer menus. The beef is marinated in kroueng, a fragrant paste made with lemongrass, turmeric, galangal, garlic, shallots, kaffir lime leaves, and chilies – the aromatic foundation of many Khmer dishes. Skewered on bamboo sticks and grilled over an open flame, the result is a tender, charred, and utterly irresistible treat. It’s hard to improve upon the timeless appeal of meat on a stick.
A&J Seafood Shack, offering Khmer and Viet-Cajun flavors in Long Beach.
A&J Seafood Shack’s Lemongrass Beef Stick Rice dish, showcasing flavorful Khmer BBQ.
Gab’s Recommendation:
I previously featured A & J in my Cheap Fast Eats Long Beach guide. It’s an excellent choice for both Cambodian dishes and pan-Asian inspired offerings like their garlic shrimp plates, reminiscent of Oahu’s North Shore shrimp trucks.
On past visits, I opted for the beef stick sandwich, served in a demi-baguette roll similar to a Vietnamese banh mi or Khmer num pang, with pickled papaya slaw and Sriracha mayo. Following James’s suggestion, we enjoyed the beef sticks on their own, served over rice with a side of slaw.
The intensely savory, aromatic beef, combined with the smoky char and fragrant jasmine rice, made for a perfect, light yet satisfying meal.
- Location: 3201 E Anaheim St., Long Beach
- Hours: Open daily, 11 AM to 8 PM
Monorom Cambodian Restaurant (Prahok Ktis): A Taste of Authentic Khmer Home Cooking
James’s Highlight:
Monorom, like A & J, also excels with their lemongrass beef sticks. However, Monorom truly shines in its selection of traditional Khmer dishes, such as prahok ktis (or prahok creme, as it’s labeled on their menu).
One of the most fundamental ways to enjoy food in Cambodia is with an array of fresh, seasonal vegetables served alongside a flavorful dip – precisely what prahok ktis offers.
It’s a rich and complex dip of ground pork blended with the pungent prahok paste (fermented mudfish), and creamy coconut milk. Prahok ktis is presented with a basket of crisp, raw vegetables – Chinese eggplant, Thai eggplant, cucumber, yardlong beans, and cabbage.
Inside Monorom, a family-run Cambodian restaurant in Long Beach.
Monorom’s Prahok Ktis, a traditional Cambodian vegetable dip with fermented fish paste.
Gab’s Impression:
During a previous food tour of Little Arabia with my colleague Yusra Farzan, I experienced the warm, intimate atmosphere of small, family-owned restaurants that felt like stepping into someone’s living room.
Monorom evoked a similar feeling. During our visit, a multi-generational family was sharing a meal, adding to the restaurant’s personal and welcoming ambiance.
The extensive menu was initially overwhelming, but thankfully, we had a plan to begin with the prahok ktis.
The assortment of fresh, raw vegetables arrived with a side of reddish-orange prahok paste, studded with bits of ground pork – an incredible dip. It reminded me of nam phrig noom, a Northern Thai roasted green chili dip that’s a family favorite at Renu Narkorn in nearby Norwalk, often served with crispy pork rinds.
- Location: 2150 E Anaheim St., Long Beach
- Hours: Monday-Tuesday, Thursday 9 AM to 8:30 PM; Friday-Sunday 9 AM to 9 PM (Closed Wednesday)
Crystal Thai Cambodian (Trei Aundain Chean): Experiencing Pre-Genocide Khmer Culinary Traditions
Crystal Thai Cambodian, a Long Beach restaurant preserving traditional Khmer cuisine.
James’s Recommendation:
Despite the “Thai” in its name, Crystal Thai Cambodian is decidedly Khmer. It’s the quintessential place to experience authentic, traditional Cambodian dishes – the kind of food you’d find in a Khmer home, recipes passed down through generations, preserving culinary memories from pre-genocide Cambodia.
Their menu is a comprehensive encyclopedia of Khmer culinary masterpieces, from the festive backyard party noodle dish nom p’jok (thick rice vermicelli in a turmeric-infused catfish broth) to duck feet salad (a tangy, sweet and sour slaw with cartilaginous duck feet).
When I want to impress adventurous eaters, I always order trei aundain chean, or whole fried yellow catfish. The catfish is presented dramatically, accompanied by a bouquet of fresh greens: lettuce, Vietnamese coriander, fish mint, bean sprouts, cucumber, and sadao branches – the flower buds of the neem tree. Sadao offers a strikingly bitter, almost medicinal flavor, like intensely bitter broccoli florets.
To enjoy this dish, you begin by breaking into the crispy, chicharrón-like catfish skin, revealing the bright yellow, flaky, and surprisingly clean-tasting flesh underneath. Then, you create a wrap by nestling the fish and herbs into a lettuce leaf.
The wraps are paired with a sweet and sour tamarind sauce and a refreshing green mango salad, creating a complex flavor journey with each bite, layer upon layer of taste unfolding.
Crystal Thai Cambodian’s Trei Aundain Chean, whole fried Mekong River catfish with herbs and dipping sauce.
Gab’s Verdict:
I had long heard whispers of Crystal Thai and their legendary nom p’jok, the vibrant yellow curry noodle soup. But James encouraged me to explore further into their menu.
I honestly can’t recall the last time I ate a whole catfish – perhaps never, certainly not beyond filets. The presentation was impressive: a whole deep-fried, scored catfish, accompanied by a separate platter of fresh greens. The sadao, with its unique, broccoli-like appearance, was particularly intriguing. I assembled D.I.Y. lettuce wraps, combining chunks of fish with tamarind sauce and mango salad. The combination was exceptional. Truly memorable.
- Location: 1165 E 10th St, Long Beach
- Hours: Open daily, 9 AM to 8 PM
- Note: Cash Only
