Stepping into Rose Foods in Portland, Maine, feels like a warm embrace of nostalgia, even if you didn’t grow up with Jewish appetizing in your home. For me, childhood memories are intertwined with my Jewish grandmother’s kitchen, specifically the “appetizing lunch” spread she’d prepare. In our family lexicon, “appetizing” wasn’t just a descriptor; it was a noun, a culinary category of smoked fish, creamy spreads, and fresh bagels central to Jewish cuisine. I can still picture the table laden with varieties of cream cheese, chopped herring, whitefish salad, and my ultimate indulgence, salty belly lox, all meant to be savored with soft, untoasted bagels, while the adults sipped strong black coffee. These gatherings around food are some of the most cherished moments from my youth.
While Rose Foods owner Chad Conley’s upbringing in Maine didn’t include these exact food traditions, his wife, Rachel Schlein, deeply connects with them. Growing up in Maine, trips to New York were synonymous with stocking up on Jewish culinary staples like whitefish and lox. It was Schlein who introduced Conley to the delights of Jewish appetizing during their early trips to New York City. A pivotal moment came during a visit to Toronto and Schmaltz Appetizing, which sparked a “lightbulb moment” for Conley. Already a successful chef and co-owner of the wildly popular Palace Diner in Biddeford, he felt a pull towards a new culinary venture. “It was the first time I seriously considered opening a Jewish restaurant,” Conley recalls. “I was drawn to the idea of a daytime business, offering more conventional working hours. Portland had a noticeable gap in high-quality daytime dining options, and this concept felt like a perfect fit.” His first step was to master the bagel, the cornerstone of any good appetizing establishment. “I had a specific vision for the product and meticulously worked towards it,” Conley explains. “With each iteration, I tweaked a variable, striving to create a bagel that truly stood out.” Through extensive experimentation, he perfected a recipe using a blend of sourdough and traditional yeasts, resulting in a bagel with a delicate crust and a subtle sheen. To maintain this high standard and meet demand, Conley brought on baker Kevin Gravito, whose skill allows them to consistently produce at least 500 exceptional bagels daily. Rose Foods offers six bagel varieties, including a daily special, allowing the bakers to express their creativity.
With the bagel perfected, Conley shifted his focus to curating the rest of the Rose Foods menu. Many items, like the comforting and deeply flavored chicken soup with matzo balls and the rich chopped liver (a customer favorite), are made in-house, emphasizing freshness and quality. “Our to-go business for these items is substantial,” Conley notes. The latkes, crispy potato pancakes available on weekends only, are another homemade highlight, served traditionally with both applesauce and sour cream. However, Conley also understands the importance of sourcing the best ingredients, acknowledging that some items are best left to specialists. This is why Rose Foods sources their nova, lox, sable, whitefish, and herring directly from New York, renowned for its Jewish delis and smoked fish. The gravlax, a dill-cured salmon, comes from Ducktrap River of Maine in Belfast, showcasing a commitment to local sourcing where possible. To bring his menu vision to life and ensure smooth kitchen operations, Conley brought in Matt Jatczak, a chef with Chicago culinary experience.
Rose Foods presents its offerings on a charming, old-fashioned black felt menu board. Customers can customize their bagel sandwiches by selecting from a variety of spreads, fish, and toppings, or choose from a curated list of composed sandwiches. For a more indulgent experience, certain sandwiches can be ordered open-faced, doubling the fish portion. While every sandwich at Rose Foods is a work of art, the Henry VIII, featuring pastrami nova, holds a special place in my heart. This creation uses smoked salmon cured with pastrami spices like coriander, paprika, black pepper, and brown sugar, layered on mild horseradish cream cheese with delicate red onion slices and fresh parsley leaves. For those who prefer to start their day without smoked fish, Rose Foods also offers options like a hearty salami, egg, and cheese bagel sandwich, and the inventive Harbor Master with fried eggs, smoked cheddar, and kelp. Importantly, any of these bagel sandwiches are equally satisfying for lunch. The substantial pastrami on rye is a popular midday choice. To complement any sandwich, the Rose Foods “health salad,” a refreshing mix of marinated cabbage and carrots with dill and caraway, provides a classic Jewish deli side. For customers on the go, a streamlined Fast Lane menu is available, and calling ahead for orders is always an option.
Conley’s dedication to honoring his wife’s heritage is evident throughout Rose Foods, even in its name, a tribute to her great-grandmother. The restaurant’s ambiance evokes a sense of vintage charm, reminiscent of a 1940s deli crossed with a 1960s kitchen. One wall features vibrant yellow wallpaper adorned with pink roses, adding a touch of whimsy. Mismatched chairs, period-appropriate lighting, and Formica tables in aqua, orange, and black contribute to the retro aesthetic. Vintage Pyrex dishes, largely sourced from a shop in Woolwich by Conley, further enhance the nostalgic feel. The shelves are stocked with a curated selection of Jewish deli nostalgia items, such as Dr. Brown’s soda, alongside Maine specialties like Raye’s Mustard, blending local and traditional flavors. For me, Rose Foods feels and tastes deeply familiar, down to the perfectly sour pickles. It was reassuring to hear Conley say that customers like me are his target audience. “Many people have fond memories associated with this type of food,” he explains. “But it’s also about appreciating the fresh and innovative aspects we bring to it.”
Rose Foods | 428 Forest Ave. | Portland | 207.835.0991 | rosefoods.me
