A friend once enthusiastically declared that sushi is nothing less than “the food of the gods.” If this holds true, then Tokyo must be Mount Olympus, and the legendary Tsukiji Fish Market undoubtedly serves as Zeus’s well-stocked pantry. For anyone passionate about Sushi Food, a visit to Tokyo offers an unparalleled pilgrimage.
Tsukiji Fish Market is truly an extraordinary place. Stepping into the inner wholesale market in the early morning is like entering a world of controlled, purposeful chaos. Buyers and sellers engage in brisk trade over the day’s fresh catch, while motorized carts zip around, delivering culinary treasures. Even if you miss the famed early morning tuna auction—limited to just 120 visitors and starting around 5:20 am—the inner market, along with the retail-focused outer market, offers a captivating spectacle. Here, you can find an astounding variety of seafood, some of which you might never have imagined. You’ll likely even encounter some of the very tuna from the morning auction, albeit in a transformed state, ready for its next culinary journey.
Premier Sushi Restaurants at Tsukiji Market
Of course, within Tsukiji, sushi restaurants are abundant. It’s practically impossible to avoid encountering one, especially in the more tourist-friendly outer market. Seeking a breakfast sushi experience a few weeks prior, my friends and I aimed for two renowned sushi bars nestled in the inner market, close to the wholesale action. Sushi Dai (寿司大) stands as the most popular, but upon our 8:45 am arrival, the queue indicated at least an hour’s wait for a seat in the small, approximately dozen-seat restaurant. Consequently, we opted for Daiwa Sushi (大和寿司), just a few doors down, which still presented a considerable 40-minute wait. Both are highly regarded for providing an authentic sushi food experience right at the source.
Daiwa Sushi is particularly famous for its tuna, specifically sourced from Aomori Prefecture in northeastern Japan. Naturally, the first order for our group of three was toro, the prized fatty tuna. Moments later, slices of this delicacy, lightly brushed with soy sauce, were before us.
The experience was nothing short of nirvana, perfectly expressed through fish and seasoned rice. The toro tasted incredibly fresh, as if it had journeyed directly from the fishing boat to our plates. Its texture was thick, tender, and buttery, yet it was more than just texture. Each bite was an awakening, a moment of zen. Eating this sushi food felt like a divine communion. We sampled other menu items—mackerel, giant scallops, and different cuts of tuna—all exceptional and remarkably fresh. However, it was the toro that remained the highlight, a topic of conversation hours later.
Breakfast sushi at Daiwa proved to be an extraordinary and uniquely Japanese experience, highly recommendable for those with time and a desire for culinary spiritualism. However, the considerable queues might deter frequent visits. It is also not an inexpensive affair. An order of toro alone costs 800 yen, and the featured sushi sets start at 3500 yen (approximately USD $35), although they offer a comprehensive taste of the menu. À la carte options are also available.
Discovering Hidden Sushi Gems: Iwasa Sushi
More recently, acting on a recommendation from a friend within the food industry, I explored Iwasa Sushi (岩佐寿し). Located a short walk from Daiwa Sushi and Sushi Dai, Iwasa Sushi benefits from less foot traffic in its section of the inner market, translating to shorter or nonexistent wait times. My friend assured me that the sushi quality was comparable to its more famous neighbors.
Visiting Iwasa a few mornings ago, I was seated immediately upon arrival. The atmosphere was noticeably more relaxed compared to the bustling and crowded establishments nearby. I also observed that the clientele was primarily Japanese, with only a few foreign tourists besides myself, contrasting with Daiwa and Sushi Dai, which seem to attract a larger international tourist crowd.
The sushi at Iwasa was undeniably delicious. While the toro might not have reached the transcendent level of Daiwa’s, it was still excellent and induced its own sushi zen moment. Iwasa’s sushi sets range from 2100 yen for the basic option to 3600 yen for a more elaborate selection. Bowls of fish served over rice are also available for 1400 to 2100 yen.
For further exploration of sushi food options within the inner market, Food Sake Tokyo offers a comprehensive list of sushi restaurants. I intend to explore these myself in the future.
Midori Sushi: Neighborhood Sushi Excellence
Venturing beyond Tsukiji is also rewarding in the quest for exceptional sushi food. My preferred neighborhood sushi spot is Umegaoka Sushi no Midori (梅丘寿司の美登利), commonly known as Midori Sushi. This popular chain has multiple locations throughout Tokyo, including Akasaka, Ginza, and Shibuya. It was initially recommended by a local, and subsequently, I’ve heard other Japanese individuals praise it as well.
Everything I have tasted at Midori has been superb. The fish atop the nigiri is often sliced generously long, resembling a wave cascading over the rice rather than simply sitting on it. Their chirashi sushi, a delightful assortment of sliced fish, seafood, rolled egg omelet, and pickles atop seasoned sushi rice, is particularly popular during lunchtime. Midori’s specialty sushi rolls are both visually stunning and incredibly flavorful.
Midori also offers intriguing and inventive specials. Recently, they featured salmon sushi topped with a citrus sauce, possibly yuzu-based, which was addictively delicious.
In addition to the outstanding fish, Midori’s sushi stands out for another reason compared to standard sushi restaurants. While subtle, I suspect it lies in the sushi rice, typically seasoned with vinegar, sugar, and salt. Midori’s rice seems slightly sweeter, perhaps with a unique vinegar blend.
I also find Midori’s miso soup exceptionally good. On recent visits, it was prepared with tuna, and previously with crab, featuring crab legs extending from the soup. In both cases, the flavor was remarkable, with the ingredients elevating this normally simple yet satisfying soup.
Midori’s prices are very reasonable, with sushi sets starting from around 1000 yen ($10) to approximately 3200 yen and upwards for larger, more elaborate sets. À la carte ordering is also available.
Tokyo: A Sushi Food Paradise
These three establishments represent just a glimpse into the exceptional sushi food scene in Tokyo. Countless more await discovery throughout the city, some celebrated and others more unassuming. Like the numerous shrines and temples scattered across Tokyo, often hidden in plain sight, numerous places offer a connection to the sushi gods. They are all ready for eager diners to stumble upon them and experience something divine and incredibly delicious.
