Taiwanese Food, a vibrant and flavorful cuisine, often exists in a fascinating space where culinary delight intertwines with complex political narratives. As Katy Hui-wen Hung, author of A Culinary History of Taipei, aptly puts it, “Taiwanese food history is as murky as Taiwanese politics.” This statement underscores the intricate layers of history, global influences, and cultural identity that have shaped what we know today as Taiwanese food. To truly appreciate Taiwanese cuisine is to understand its journey through eras of global trade, colonialism, and various hegemonic influences. In a world where Taiwan’s political status is often debated and overlooked, its cuisine stands as a proud testament to its unique identity. While the international community may grapple with Taiwan’s political standing, the island confidently celebrates beef noodle soup as its unofficial national dish, a comforting symbol of resilience and culinary pride. Taiwan’s political crossroads have indeed paved the way for a cuisine that is not only rich and complex but also deeply rooted in historical stories and subtle political undertones.
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Talking about the history and politics surrounding Taiwanese food can be intricate, yet the joy of indulging in it is remarkably straightforward. Taiwanese cuisine bursts with sugary, herbal, and profoundly umami flavors that resonate deeply with anyone who experiences it. In Taipei, this culinary sensation is amplified by the city’s dynamic settings – from bustling street corners and lively night markets to steamy hot pot restaurants. This embodies the spirit of re nao (熱鬧), the quintessential “hot and noisy” energy that fuels the island’s vibrant atmosphere. It’s the dazzling lights, the pungent aromas of stinky tofu, and the exhilarating feeling of being immersed in a large, pulsating crowd within one of Asia’s most densely populated urban centers.
So, while Taiwanese food subtly reflects the proud and sometimes sensitive aspects of national identity and patriotism, it remains incredibly inviting and rewarding to explore. Consider this your guide to navigating the delicious world of Taiwanese food, particularly in the bustling capital city of Taipei.
Unpacking the Diverse Influences on Taiwanese Cuisine
What we recognize as distinctly Taiwanese cuisine is actually a fascinating fusion of flavors. It’s a culinary melting pot where indigenous ingredients and successive waves of external culinary influences have blended together, creating the “salty-sweet” signature that defines modern Taiwanese cooking. This style is characterized by generous use of basil, garlic, and green onion, enhancing almost every dish with aromatic depth.
For millennia, indigenous Austronesian peoples thrived on Taiwan’s abundant natural resources – a rich bounty of clear streams, natural hot springs, lush green mountains, and rugged coastlines. While their traditional way of life has largely evolved, approximately half a million Taiwanese aborigines still reside in the country, and their culinary legacy is evident in the continued use of local ingredients. These include millet and maqaw, a mountain peppercorn, alongside traditional dishes such as abai millet dumplings wrapped in leaves and savory maqaw-spiced sausages. Cooking techniques like salting and slow smoking, inherited from indigenous practices, also remain integral to Taiwanese food preparation.
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Taiwanese cuisine also prominently features the culinary traditions of the Hakka people. This Han Chinese subgroup, originating from the Hakka-speaking regions of Southern China, began settling in Taiwan around the 17th century. Today, approximately 4.5 million Hakka people call Taiwan home, and their rustic cooking significantly influences many of the flavors associated with the island. Hallmarks of Hakka cuisine in Taiwan include hearty, basil-infused soups, lei cha (a tea mixed with peanuts, mint, sesame seeds, and mung beans), and mi fen (pan-fried rice noodles).
The sweet and savory flavors that permeate iconic Taiwanese dishes like minced pork rice and gua bao (pork belly buns) largely come from the influence of Chinese immigrants from Fujian. These immigrants arrived during the Qing Dynasty and later in larger waves, alongside mainlanders fleeing the Chinese Communist Revolution in the 1940s. Adding another layer to Taiwan’s culinary identity, five decades of Japanese colonization, starting in the late 19th century, introduced bright, umami-rich pickled vegetables, sweet mochi steamed and coated in sesame, and seafood preparations that emphasize seasonal ingredients. Even today, bento boxes and sushi restaurants are ubiquitous in Taipei.
Unsurprisingly, America has also left a lasting impact on Taiwanese food culture. While wheat products were already present in Taiwan, the post-World War II USAID era saw massive wheat imports from the United States. This led to wheat noodles, wheat-flour buns, sweet breads, and dumplings becoming staples, fundamentally changing Taiwanese dietary habits forever.
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Must-Try Taiwanese Dishes: A Culinary Bucket List
Beef Noodle Soup (牛肉麵): Taiwan’s Unofficial National Dish
Beef noodle soup, with its tender braised beef and perfectly chewy noodles, seems like a universally beloved comfort food. Yet, it holds a special place as the unofficial national dish of Taiwan, despite its Chinese origins. Taiwan has distinctly made it its own by adding pickled mustard greens and the signature five-spice powder, a blend of star anise, cloves, Chinese cinnamon, Sichuan pepper, and fennel seeds. The annual Taipei International Beef Noodle Festival celebrates this dish, where countless bowls of beef noodle soup are enjoyed. This soup, featuring wheat noodles, tender beef shanks and tendons, and greens in a rich broth simmered for days with beef bones, is a true testament to Taiwanese culinary dedication. Even Lay’s potato chips in Taiwan feature a Red Braised Beef Noodle Soup flavor!
Each restaurant prides itself on a unique, closely guarded recipe, varying in broth richness, noodle thickness, and beef quality. While some establishments in Taipei offer premium bowls for hundreds of dollars, most locals have their favorite neighborhood spot where a delicious bowl costs just a few US dollars.
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Hot Pot (火鍋): A Taiwanese Dining Staple for All Seasons
In Taiwan, hot pot is not just a meal; it’s a year-round culinary and social experience. It’s so central to Taiwanese dining culture that many homes are equipped with dedicated hot pot burners. With nearly 5,000 hot pot restaurants across the country, serving styles from shabu-shabu to spicy Sichuan mala and even stinky tofu hot pot, the choices are vast. Hot pot venues range from quick, casual eateries to elaborate all-you-can-eat establishments. It’s a communal gathering point where people cook a variety of ingredients – seafood, thinly sliced meats, leafy greens, dumplings, mushrooms, and various types of tofu – in simmering pots of broth infused with pork bones, jujube, or pickled cabbage. Diners retrieve their cooked food with chopsticks or tongs and dip it into personalized sauces made with sesame oil, sha cha sauce, soy sauce, garlic, scallions, black vinegar, sugar, or chili sauce.
Gua Bao: The Taiwanese Hamburger (刈包)
Taiwanese-American chef Eddie Huang popularized gua bao through his New York restaurant Baohaus, bringing global attention to this Taiwanese classic. Often referred to as the “Taiwanese hamburger,” gua bao is a specialty from northern Taiwan. It features fluffy mantou steamed buns filled with generous slices of sweet and savory pork belly, braised in rice wine, soy sauce, and Chinese five-spice powder, and topped with crushed peanuts, pickled mustard greens, and fresh cilantro.
Zong Zi: Sticky Rice Dumplings (粽子)
Zong zi encompasses various leaf-wrapped sticky rice dumplings found across Asia. In Taiwan, they typically take a pyramid shape and are filled with savory ingredients like dried shrimp, mushrooms, peanuts, and chestnuts, often with pork. Some variations include pickled radish, salted egg yolk, and other crunchy elements to contrast the sticky rice texture.
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Taiwanese Fried Chicken (鹹酥雞): Crispy Perfection
Taiwanese fried chicken is a beloved snack found everywhere from dedicated chains to bustling night markets. It stands out due to its double-frying technique, which creates an incredibly crispy, thin, and delicate crust, almost tempura-like. While Korean fried chicken is also double-fried, the Taiwanese version is typically seasoned with salt, pepper, basil leaves, and five-spice powder, offering a unique crunchy, salty, and aromatic flavor profile that rivals any fried chicken globally. You can find popcorn-style chicken bites, schnitzel-like cutlets, and individual chicken pieces.
Braised Pork Rice (滷肉飯): Taiwan’s Ultimate Comfort Food
Braised pork rice is the quintessential Taiwanese comfort food. Simple yet deeply satisfying, it consists of fatty pork belly braised in soy sauce, served over steamed white rice. It’s a complete and comforting dish on its own or can be the centerpiece of a meal with various side dishes.
Oyster Vermicelli Noodles (蚵仔麵線): A Soup with Unique Texture
Oyster vermicelli noodles soup is characterized by its geng texture – thickened with starch to create a smooth, slightly viscous consistency. This unique base is enriched with plump oyster pieces and chewy pig intestine. Garnished with cilantro, a touch of vinegar is often added to enhance the flavors. Near the coast, a similar celebration of this texture can be found in oyster omelets.
Scallion Pancake (蔥油餅): Flaky and Savory Street Food
The scallion pancake, also known as green onion pancake, is a savory, flaky flatbread reminiscent of a croissant. Scallions are mixed into an oil-rich dough, which is then griddled until golden and crispy. Skilled street vendors in Taipei are known for their deft techniques of spinning, fluffing, and flipping the pancakes to achieve perfect layers and puffiness. Enjoy it plain or with fillings like eggs, basil, cheese, seared beef, ham, or corn.
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Century Egg (皮蛋): An Acquired Taste, Rich in Flavor
Century egg, or pi dan, is created by preserving eggs for weeks to months in a mixture of salt, lime, and ash. This process results in a greyish-black delicacy with a jelly-like casing surrounding a hard-boiled egg. The yolk offers a subtly sweet, creamy flavor, akin to a rich, aged cheese. It’s often enjoyed with congee for breakfast, drizzled with spicy chili sauce, or atop fresh tofu.
Three-Cup Chicken (三杯雞): Aromatic and Flavorful Braise
San bei ji, or three-cup chicken, gets its name from the equal parts of rice wine, soy sauce, and sesame oil used in its braising liquid. Popular in both China and Taiwan, the Taiwanese version leans towards a sweeter profile. Cooked and served in an earthenware pot, the dish arrives at the table still sizzling, generously garnished with fresh basil.
Xiao Long Bao: Soup Dumplings (小籠包)
Taiwanese chain Din Tai Fung has become globally synonymous with xiao long bao, or soup dumplings. Their original Taipei location consistently draws long queues for these Shanghainese steamed pork dumplings filled with flavorful broth. While Din Tai Fung is renowned, many local eateries also offer exceptional soup dumplings, sparking frequent debates among locals about the best spots. For a daring culinary experience, try eating xiao long bao straight from the steamer – a quick bite might result in a scalded tongue but delivers an intense burst of flavor.
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Fan Tuan (飯糰): The Perfect Taiwanese Breakfast On-the-Go
Fan tuan is Taiwan’s go-to portable breakfast. This sticky rice roll, similar to a burrito, is packed with fillings ranging from traditional pickled radish, mustard greens, braised egg, and pork floss to more modern options like egg, bacon, and even sugar. Contemporary versions often use different colored rice, with purple rice being particularly popular. Wrapped in plastic, fan tuan is the ideal breakfast for busy mornings.
Stinky Tofu (臭豆腐): A Pungent Delicacy
While the smell of stinky tofu can be off-putting to the uninitiated, it’s a beloved Taiwanese delicacy. Fermented in a brine that typically includes Chinese herbs, dried fish or shrimp, bamboo, mustard greens, and amaranth greens, stinky tofu develops a powerful aroma. The resulting tofu is often fried and has a tender, moist texture. Despite its strong smell, the flavor is milder than the aroma suggests, making it a must-try for adventurous eaters.
Aiyu Jelly (愛玉): A Refreshing Summer Treat
Aiyu jelly is made from the seeds of a fig variety native to Taiwan’s mountains. This wobbly, sweet jelly is typically served over tart lemon juice and crushed ice, enjoyed as a refreshing drink during Taiwan’s hot summers. Along with bubble tea, it’s a top choice for cooling down in the heat.
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Indulge in Taiwanese Desserts: A Sweet Finale
While Tainan is often called Taiwan’s “sweet tooth capital,” the entire country is renowned for its delightful desserts. From boba tea shops to shaved ice parlors, Taiwan offers countless ways to satisfy your sweet cravings at any time of day.
Shaved Ice (礤冰): A Customizable Cool Treat
Shaved ice is a quintessential Taiwanese dessert. Blocks of flavored ice are machine-shaved into thin ribbons or a fine, snow-like texture and then generously topped with fresh fruits, red beans, mung beans, taro, tapioca pearls, and grass jelly. It’s finished with a drizzle of sweetened condensed milk or sugary ginger syrup, creating a refreshing and customizable dessert.
Pineapple Cake (鳳梨酥): Taiwan’s Prized Pastry
Pineapple cake, a legacy of Taiwan’s pineapple farming history, is a palm-sized shortbread tart filled with tangy pineapple or sweet winter melon paste. It’s a highly valued pastry and a popular souvenir. Gifting pineapple cakes is a significant tradition in Taiwan, as the Taiwanese Hokkien word for pineapple, ong lai, sounds like “coming luck,” symbolizing wealth and prosperity.
Ice Cream Burritos and More: Creative Street Sweets
In Taipei’s bustling street corners and night markets, you’ll find carts selling unique takeaway sweets. These include chewy taro and sweet potato mochi balls, spongy egg waffle cakes, and ice cream burritos. The latter consists of tortilla-like crepes wrapped around scoops of fruit ice cream, shaved peanut brittle, and fresh cilantro, offering a delightful mix of textures and temperatures.
Taiwanese Drinks: Quenching Your Thirst, the Taiwanese Way
Taiwan has a lively drinking culture, often centered around the concept of gan bei (乾杯), or bottoms-up. While gao liang (高粱), a potent sorghum liquor, is considered the unofficial hard liquor of Taiwan, favored by traditional drinkers, modern tastes are evolving. Gao liang, originating from northeastern China, gained popularity in Taiwan in the 1950s, particularly among soldiers stationed in Kinmen. Today, it’s recognized in international spirits competitions and is enjoyed neat or chilled. However, with alcohol levels reaching up to 63% ABV, it’s a strong spirit.
Currently, many Taiwanese prefer whisky, beer (especially from local craft breweries like SUNMAI and Taihu), or Western-style cocktails. Taipei boasts a thriving cocktail scene with speakeasies like Ounce, R&D Cocktail Lab, and Staff Only Club offering creative and expertly crafted drinks.
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For non-alcoholic options, high mountain oolong and black teas remain integral to Taiwanese culture. While younger generations are exploring coffee and sweetened tea beverages, a resurgence of interest in traditional tea is emerging, particularly among politically conscious youth who see tea as a vital part of Taiwanese heritage.
However, no beverage is as iconic as boba, also known as bubble tea or pearl milk tea. The classic version combines milk, black tea, and chewy tapioca pearls, shaken and served with a wide straw. The variations are endless, but all emphasize the prized “Q” texture – the bouncy, chewy consistency of the tapioca pearls.
Navigating Mealtimes in Taiwan: An All-Day Affair
Mealtimes in Taiwan are flexible, often described as an all-day grazing experience with few rigid rules. Breakfast is a staple, featuring a variety of morning foods brought from China, including flaky flatbreads, buns, and dumplings. Sweet or savory soy milk is a classic Taiwanese breakfast, often paired with shao bing (sesame sandwiches), crispy dan bing (egg crepes), and you tiao (fried dough sticks).
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Lunch and dinner are also common, often enjoyed from street carts, casual buffet restaurants, or bustling sidewalk eateries offering soups, rice dishes, and other Taiwanese favorites. But Taiwan’s food culture extends beyond these main meals with xiao chi, meaning “little eats” – a wide array of street foods available throughout the day.
Adding another layer is xiao ye, the midnight snack, with night markets and 24-hour shops selling everything from breakfast soy milk to fried chicken skin. Essentially, there are no strict times to eat in Taipei. The guiding principle is Man man chi (慢慢吃) – “savor your food slowly.”
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Where to Eat Taiwanese Food: A Culinary Landscape
Taiwanese food is everywhere. Simply follow your senses. As mentioned, Taipei’s sidewalks are often transformed into dining spaces. Long lines are common, and if a restaurant has a queue, it’s usually a good sign. Besides restaurants and street stalls, there are several unique places to enjoy great Taiwanese food.
Street Markets: The Heart of Taiwanese Street Food
Much of the best Taiwanese food is found on the streets – at informal sidewalk restaurants, morning wet markets, or Taipei’s famous night markets like Raohe, Ningxia, and Tonghua. These markets are vibrant hubs of culinary activity, with vendors flipping scallion pancakes, steaming sweet potatoes, and grilling corn on every corner.
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Convenience Stores: More Than Just Snacks
Similar to Japan’s convenience stores, Taiwanese convenience stores like 7-Eleven, OK Mart, and FamilyMart offer much more than just snacks. They feature hard-boiled eggs steeped in tea, mini oden hot pots, instant ramen with real beef, and onigiri rice rolls. You can also find Lay’s chips in unique flavors, boba tea, coffee, and even beer on tap in some locations. These stores are multi-functional, allowing you to pay bills, buy tickets, use ATMs, and even get your blood pressure checked.
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Re chao (熱炒): Taiwanese Style Pubs
Re chao, meaning “hot stir-fry,” are casual, lively establishments similar to British pubs or Japanese izakayas. Originally refuges for blue-collar workers, today they attract a diverse crowd enjoying cheap Taiwan Beer and a wide array of stir-fried dishes. Re chao menus feature hundreds of small plates representing all aspects of Taiwanese cuisine, perfect for pairing with drinks and socializing.
Karaoke Bars: Food and Entertainment Combined
Karaoke is immensely popular in Taiwan, and Taipei’s 24-hour KTV karaoke bars often include late-night food service. Many offer all-you-can-eat and all-you-can-sing deals, serving everything from crispy chicken to hearty beef noodle soup. During typhoons, they become havens, offering shelter, entertainment, and hot herbal tea.
Urban Shrimping Bars: Catch and Cook Your Meal
For a unique and interactive dining experience, visit Taipei’s indoor 24-hour shrimping bars. These gymnasium-sized venues provide fishing rods, bait, and nets for catching prawns in above-ground pools. Freshly caught prawns are then grilled and devoured on the spot, creating a fun and engaging culinary activity.
The Future of Taiwanese Food: Innovation and Global Recognition
Taiwanese cuisine is experiencing a culinary renaissance, with chefs globally and locally exploring and redefining its identity. Over the past few years, Taipei chefs have been experimenting with local ingredients and seasonal produce, pushing the boundaries of modern Taiwanese cooking.
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Michelin-starred restaurants like Raw, led by chef André Chiang, offer dramatic tasting menus that reimagine Taiwanese street foods with modern techniques and premium local ingredients. Mume, another Michelin-recognized restaurant, presents refined small plates emphasizing Taiwanese products. Casual yet ambitious restaurants like Gēn Creative offer inventive Taiwanese-Western fusion dishes, while Meowvelous provides a playful, club-like atmosphere with creative Taiwanese food and cocktails.
Globally, Taiwanese food is gaining significant traction. Boba tea has become a staple in the U.S., and chains like Din Tai Fung, Hot-Star Large Fried Chicken, and 85°C Bakery Cafe are expanding internationally. Taiwanese restaurants are flourishing in cities like LA and New York, captivating a wider audience.
This culinary movement is partly driven by a desire to assert a distinct Taiwanese identity, separate from external influences. As Taiwanese cuisine gains international acclaim, there’s hope that global appreciation for its flavors will extend to a deeper understanding and recognition of Taiwan’s unique culture and independent spirit.
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Taiwanese food is more than just a meal; it’s a flavorful journey through history, culture, and innovation. From bustling night markets to Michelin-starred restaurants, the diverse culinary landscape of Taiwan offers something to enchant every palate. Exploring Taiwanese food is an essential part of understanding and appreciating the vibrant heart of Taiwan itself.
