Veganuary rolls around each year, presenting an opportunity for both carnivores to explore plant-based eating and for fast food chains to unveil their latest vegan offerings. As someone immersed in the vegan fast food scene since 2022, I’ve sampled a wide spectrum, from regrettable vegan “fried chicken” to innovative VC-backed vegan pizzas, even relocating to the UK in pursuit of vegan Nando’s and Greggs delights. This Veganuary, my focus shifted to a different culinary quest: the vegan burrito in London.
London, despite not being immediately synonymous with Mexican cuisine, became my chosen ground for this burrito expedition. While the UK’s culinary landscape isn’t dominated by Mexican flavors, I embarked on a Veganuary Fast Food tour to uncover a truly satisfying vegan burrito. The question lingered: could any of these fast-food iterations convert a January vegan into a long-term plant-based enthusiast? Or would my search culminate in launching yet another expat-owned Mexican food venture? Join me as I navigate London’s vegan fast food scene in pursuit of the perfect burrito.
Tortilla: The Beyond Steak Chimichurri Gamble
My first foray was into Tortilla, a fast-casual chain reminiscent of Chipotle, which had previously served me what I considered one of the least inspiring burritos. Despite my past experience, I decided to give them another chance, especially given their Veganuary collaboration with Beyond Meat, featuring new Beyond Steak menu items. I opted for the Beyond Steak Chimichurri Burrito, a combination of faux beef, Mexican rice, pinto beans, guacamole, sweetcorn, jalapeños, pickled red onions, crushed tortilla chips, and vegan chimichurri mayo.
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Interestingly, Tortilla was established by Californian expats Brandon and Jen Stephens, who aimed to introduce the vibrant, high-quality, fast-casual Mexican dining experience of San Francisco taquerias to the UK market. Whether they fully closed that gap is debatable, but their presence is undeniable.
Despite my initial skepticism, the Beyond Steak Chimichurri Burrito from Tortilla was surprisingly palatable. Not exceptional, but certainly decent, acceptable, and entirely fine. Beyond Steak itself offers a commendable texture. However, as with all Beyond Meat products, the surrounding components are crucial. Unfortunately, at Tortilla, these supporting elements didn’t quite elevate the burrito to greatness. While the chimichurri mayo was a flavor highlight, the overall impression leaned towards dryness. Whether due to rice-to-ingredient ratios, insufficient mayo, or the absence of salsa, it lacked a certain moistness. While it served its purpose, a return visit isn’t high on my list.
Adding to the experience was the Spitalfields Tortilla location, an unfortunate choice. Positioned near office buildings, it seemed designed for the weekday lunch crowd, not for leisurely reviewers. The absence of indoor seating led me to an outdoor picnic bench in the cold.
This seating arrangement, essentially half a picnic table, felt isolating. Perhaps the solution to urban loneliness isn’t complex social programs, but rather rethinking urban design that inadvertently fosters isolation.
Club Mexicana: Millennial Vegan Burrito Vibes
For a burrito experience steeped in contemporary, energetic vibes, Club Mexicana is a prime destination. Their website proudly declares a “100% vegan, 100% bangin’” menu, a sentiment that resonates with my own brand of late-night content creation at Night Water.
My wife and I visited Club Mexicana’s Shoreditch restaurant—a proper sit-down establishment with a lively atmosphere, unlike their locations in bustling food halls. Regardless of the setting, their street-food inspired menu remains consistent.
In stark contrast to Tortilla, everything I’ve tried from Club Mexicana has been flavorful and satisfying, devoid of blandness or textural issues. However, some menu choices suggest an overreach for innovation at the expense of core Mexican elements. For instance, none of their burritos include beans as standard; it’s a £2 add-on. Club Mexicana’s founder, Meriel Armitage, describes their cuisine as “inauthentic Mexican,” drawing influences from the UK, US, and beyond. The specific influence that led to charging extra for beans remains unclear.
American influences are evident in burrito selections like the Buffalo Chick’n, drenched in hot sauce and ranch, and the Cheezeburger, featuring a mysterious “burger sauce.”
I opted for the BBQ Short Rib burrito, adding the optional £2 beans. It encased faux ribs in a tortilla with rice, lettuce, pico de gallo, pink onions, pickled cabbage, garlic mayo, salsa verde, pickled jalapeños, and a generous drenching of BBQ sauce. Unsurprisingly, BBQ sauce dominated the flavor profile. Yet, other flavors managed to emerge, and the texture, particularly of the faux ribs, was notably impressive.
My wife chose the Black Bean and Queso Fresco quesadilla, perhaps the closest item to traditional Mexican fare, albeit with vegan cheese. She found it enjoyable and fulfilling, especially praising the accompanying salsa, though not overwhelmingly impressive.
This accurately encapsulates Club Mexicana: consistently good, always satisfying, but not intensely craveable or worth going out of my way for—even for someone who has previously gone to great lengths for exceptional burritos.
Wahaca: Mexican Inspiration with a Twist
Thomasina Miers’ experience of studying abroad in Mexico profoundly shaped her culinary path. Upon returning to the UK, she won the 2005 revival of Masterchef using Mexican-inspired recipes. Capitalizing on this success, she co-founded Wahaca in 2006 with business partner Mark Selby. The name itself, Wahaca, is a phonetic rendering of the Mexican state of Oaxaca.
I visited Wahaca’s Shoreditch location, which operated more as a ghost kitchen with seating. Delivery drivers constantly flowed in and out, collecting orders to fulfill London’s burrito cravings.
Fortunately, the food quality surpasses the ambiance, with a broad selection of vegetarian and vegan options. I chose their Ancho Mushroom burrito, vegetarian by default but adaptable to vegan. It combines ancho mushrooms with smoky caramelized garlic mojo de ajo, rice, cheese, salsas, slaw, and black beans—offered without extra charge.
As a mushroom enthusiast, I appreciate mushrooms as a flavorful and natural meat alternative, often preferring them to heavily processed soy-based substitutes. A well-prepared mushroom is far more appealing than relying on excessive BBQ sauce to simulate a meat experience.
The most peculiar aspect of the Wahaca burrito was its presentation with a dollop of guacamole on top. Its intended purpose remained unclear. Aiming for a traditional hand-held burrito experience, I resorted to displacing the guacamole with a knife, leaving a trail of avocado residue. If this is Wahaca’s interpretation of a wet burrito, it’s a misguided one.
I also intended to sample the Beet Tartare Tostados, a Veganuary special, but they were unavailable at this location. Instead, I opted for another limited-time offering, the Mushroom Carnitas Tostados, featuring king oyster and chestnut mushroom carnitas, frijoles, and a cashew nut and herb mole atop a tortilla. Anticipating them as a starter, they arrived after I was well into my burrito, diminishing my appetite for them. This was unfortunate, as the mushroom carnitas were inventive, flavorful, and texturally distinct from the burrito mushrooms—ultimately, it was simply too much mushroom in one meal.
Final Verdict
Unsurprisingly, none of these British-Mexican fast-food or fast-casual chains entirely satisfied my craving for an extraordinary burrito. However, none were so disappointing as to make me question my relocation to the UK. While I’ll likely avoid Tortilla after their Veganuary specials conclude, I wouldn’t object to finding myself at Club Mexicana or Wahaca again. For non-vegans aiming to reduce meat consumption, both offer commendable menu options.
To international readers contemplating prioritizing Mexican cuisine during a London visit: a simple “no” probably suffices.
