Oaxaca food represents a vibrant culinary landscape, and at FOODS.EDU.VN, we’re excited to take you on a journey through this flavorful region, exploring its unique dishes and ingredients. Prepare to discover the rich tapestry of Oaxacan cuisine with our guide, offering insights into its diverse flavors and traditions. Learn about Oaxacan cooking, traditional dishes, and gastronomic delights with us.
1. Unveiling Oaxacan Cuisine
Oaxacan cuisine is a symphony of flavors – roasted, subtle, rich, and layered. Think of moles that tantalize the taste buds, chocolate that awakens the senses, and tiny avocados boasting a hint of licorice. Envision giant balls of quesillo cheese, ribbons of culinary delight, chapulines (grasshoppers) offering a crunchy surprise, and tlayudas resembling whopping Mexican pizzas. Picture stunning grilled meats, huitlacoche (corn fungus) adding an earthy note, and mysterious herbs like epazote, alongside more types of chili peppers than you can count.
Oaxaca is pronounced Wa-ha-ka. The allure of its cuisine was a significant factor in our decision to immerse ourselves in this Mexican state. After experiencing the flavors of Central America, we were eager to explore the unique tastes of Oaxaca.
At FOODS.EDU.VN, we’re dedicated to bringing you the most comprehensive culinary guides.
1.1. Deep Dive into Oaxaca’s Culinary Landscape
We embarked on a culinary quest, exploring Oaxaca’s vibrant street food scene, bustling markets, and inviting restaurants. We enrolled in a Oaxacan cooking class to deepen our understanding of the region’s culinary traditions and to learn cooking techniques. We even sought out our local landlord, a true Oaxacan, to uncover his favorite street food gems and must-try dishes.
Some might call our dedication an obsession. At FOODS.EDU.VN, we see it as a commitment to bringing you the best culinary insights.
1.2. A Comprehensive Guide to Oaxacan Food
We’ve compiled our experiences, insights, and recommendations into this comprehensive Oaxaca Food Guide.
This guide features a selection of Oaxacan dishes, street foods, moles, desserts, and drinks.
Note: In this guide, “Oaxaca” generally refers to the city of Oaxaca, the capital of the Mexican state of Oaxaca. Recommendations for Oaxacan restaurants and cooking classes are included.
Let’s dive in and explore the culinary wonders of Oaxaca!
2. Must-Try Oaxaca Street Food and Traditional Dishes
Here are some of the most popular Oaxacan dishes that you should try when visiting:
2.1. Tlayudas: The Oaxacan Pizza
Often called the “Oaxacan pizza,” a tlayuda is a large, semi-dried tortilla, sometimes glazed with unrefined pork lard called asiento. It’s topped with refried beans (frijol), tomatoes, avocados, and a choice of meat, such as chorizo, tasajo, cecina, or shredded chicken tinga. Served open or folded in half after cooking on a charcoal grill, a single tlayuda is often enough for two people.
Tlayuda in Oaxaca recommendations: Try the stand just to the right of the entrance to the Carne Asadas aisle at Mercado 20 de Noviembre. Also, a hole-in-the-wall stand at Mercado de la Merced offers excellent tlayudas.
2.2. Huitlacoche Corn Fungus Tacos: An Earthy Delight
Huitlacoche, or “corn smut,” offers an earthy, mushroomy flavor and a unique texture. Ensure it’s fresh, although canned versions are also available.
This seasonal item is best enjoyed fresh. Consider making huitlacoche tacos at the Seasons of My Heart cooking school in Oaxaca.
2.3. Enfrijoladas: Bean-Stewed Tortillas
Enfrijoladas are fried tortillas served with beans and sauce. In Oaxaca, the beans are stewed with avocado leaves, adding a distinctive flavor.
As our Oaxacan landlord’s wife would say, “It’s not real frijol if it doesn’t include avocado leaves.”
2.4. Memelas (Memelitas): A Savory Snack
A memela is a corn round snack, slightly thicker than a tortilla, toasted on a comal and topped with beans, quesillo, ground pork with spices, eggs, and various sauces.
Memelas were our favorite morning snack, thanks to a local family’s stand.
Memela recommendations in Oaxaca: Street stand on Oaxaca (Huerto Los Ciruelos) in San José La Noria neighborhood.
2.5. Tetelas: Stuffed Triangle Tortillas
A tetela is a thin, triangle-shaped corn tortilla filled with various ingredients.
Tetelas recommendation in Oaxaca: Try the tetelas with refried beans (frijoles) at Itanoni on Belisario Domínguez 513, Colonia Reforma.
2.6. Tacos: A Mexican Staple, Oaxacan Style
While tacos are a staple throughout Mexico, Oaxaca offers some of the best. A good taqueria focuses on the meat and the condiments.
Our favorite taco place for excellent meat flavor, tortillas, and generous condiments: Los Mero Mero Sombrerudos (Universidad 112, Fraccionamiento Trinidad de las Huertas).
Choose your taco meat, including al pastor, carnitas, and castillo. Our favorite: the castillo. They prepare the meat on the grill right up front. For adventurous eaters, consider cow head tacos in Oaxaca.
2.7. Tamales (traditional, corn husk): A Taste of Tradition
Traditional tamales are a widely enjoyed Mexican dish. However, in Oaxaca, our landlord recommended a particular spot.
Tamales Mina appears around 7:30 PM on the corner of Avenida Hidalgo and 20 de Noviembre. The grandmother behind the stand has been making tamales for over 20 years, and the quality remains consistent.
Today, her children sell the tamales for her. Grandma offers seven flavors, with mole coloradito and mole verde tamales being our favorites. Arrive early, as the line forms quickly and they sell out fast.
2.8. Tamales Oaxaqueños (or Tamales Hoja): Wrapped in Banana Leaves
These banana leaf-wrapped tamales resemble South American humitas. Tamales Oaxaqueños feature fillings similar to traditional tamales, such as frijol (beans) or mole negro.
The leaf keeps the moisture in more effectively than the traditional corn husk.
2.9. Beer Snacks: A Budget-Friendly Delight
Visit the right bar in Oaxaca, order a beer, and enjoy complimentary snacks all night.
They’ll bring out a variety of goodies, from fish soup to smoked meats to potato salads and nacho chips. This is the beer snack antojitos culture in Oaxaca. La Red is a popular choice, but our favorite was the rooftop of Rey de Oros (Aldama No. 304).
2.10. Carnes Asada (cecina, tasajo or chorizo): A Meat Lover’s Paradise
Meat lovers should visit the pasillo de carnes asadas (grilled meats hall) in Oaxaca’s 20 de Noviembre market.
Choose your meat: tasajo (thinly pounded beef), cecina (thinly sliced pork), cecina enchilada (dusted with chili powder), and chorizo (Mexican sausage). Vegetarians can enjoy the roasted vegetables, sauces, and sides.
2.11. Goat’s Head Soup: A Sunday Market Specialty
A specialty of the Tlacolula Sunday Market, worth a visit for its taste, life, and color. Try the goat barbecue (barbacoa) and the goat soup consommé from the drippings.
2.12. Chile Relleno: Stuffed Poblano Peppers
Stuffed, roasted fresh poblano peppers are available throughout the markets in town. Some are served without the egg batter, allowing you to experience the pepper flavor directly.
2.13. Jicama: A Refreshing Snack
Mexican turnip or root, served fresh, room temperature, or chilled, and dusted with salt or sugar and chili dust, perfect with a margarita or beer.
Our favorite was a variety we found at La Biznaga (García Vigil No. 512).
2.14. Empanadas: Warm-Roasted Dough Pockets
Oaxacan empanadas resemble a large memela and are stuffed and warm-roasted on a comal.
Our favorite empanada vendor is at the local market in San José La Noria neighborhood on Jorge L. Tamayo Castellanos Avenida next to the fire station, but you’ll also find a great selection of empanadas cooked up to order at the Tlacolula Sunday market and Mercado 20 de Noviembre.
2.15. Entomatadas: Quesillo-Stuffed Tortillas
Tortillas stuffed with quesillo, covered with a tomato-based sauce and topped with fresh cheese.
2.16. Enchiladas: Chile-Sauced Tortillas
Enchiladas are tortillas pan-fried with a chile sauce and served with onion and cheese.
In Oaxaca, you’ll usually find enchiladas covered in a traditional Oaxacan mole sauce.
2.17. Chilaquiles: Tortilla Strips with Toppings
Chilaquiles is a dish of lightly fried tortilla strips topped with salsas, meat, refried beans, cheese, Mexican cream, and onions.
2.18. Hibiscus Horn Cones: A Unique Twist
Tortilla horns stuffed with seasoned hibiscus. Available at La Biznaga (García Vigil No. 512).
3. Exploring Oaxacan Moles: The Essence of Flavor
Oaxaca is known as the land of the seven moles.
“We always say that our mothers make the best mole. But on the Day of the Dead, everyone shares their mole with everyone else so we all know who really makes the best mole in the village,” Yolanda, our cooking class instructor, explained.
She continued: “You have to burn the peppers and then soak them to remove the bitter. If you don’t take the bitter out of the chili peppers, people will talk badly of you.”
3.1. What is Mole?
A mole is a sauce made from roasted ingredients that are ground together and slow-simmered.
Ingredients to make mole coloradito.
Oaxaca’s culinary fame comes from its seven varieties of moles. You’ll find moles served on top of chicken, meat, or enchiladas, as well as tucked inside empanadas and tamales.
3.2. Mole Negro (black sauce): The King of Moles
This is the most famous Oaxacan mole, known for its complexity and reliance on chocolate.
“This is not a mole where you wake up in the morning and say on a whim, ‘I’m going to make mole negro today.’ It takes a lot of time to make and get it right,” Yolanda reminded us.
Mole negro includes dried chiles (chilhuacles negros, guajillo chiles, pasilla chiles, ancho negro (mulatto) chiles, chipotle chiles) with seeds removed, soaked in water, and blended with chocolate, bread, etc.
3.3. Mole Colorado (red sauce): A Flavorful Blend
One of Oaxaca’s seven great moles, mole colorado is made with peppers (pasilla, ancho), almonds, chocolate, and spices.
3.4. Mole Coloradito (little red sauce): A Popular Choice
Chicken with mole coloradito.
Based on market menus, mole coloradito is among the most popular. Similar to mole colorado, it features green leaf spices along with chiles guajillo, pasilla, and ancho.
3.5. Mole Verde (green sauce): A Herbaceous Delight
Mole verde enchiladas from the Noria Market.
A mole showcasing local herbs and greens, mole verde can include epazote, hoja santa, pumpkin seeds, cilantro, poblano peppers, jalapeño peppers, parsley, spinach, and nopales (cactus leaves).
3.6. Mole Amarillo (yellow sauce): A Misnomer
Given that this sauce is often red, the name is misleading. Mole amarillo is a less complex mole made from guajillo and ancho chilies that resembles a Mexican marinara.
3.7. The Moles Yet to Be Tasted
The remaining two moles are harder to find:
- Mole Chichilo
- Mole Manchamantel (literally, tablecloth staining sauce)
4. Key Ingredients of Oaxacan Cuisine: The Building Blocks of Flavor
4.1. Avocado Leaves (hojas de aguacate): A Hint of Anise
Not just any avocado leaves, but those from the Mexican avocado (Persea drymifolia) that impart a flavor of anise or licorice.
4.2. Avocado Criollo: Edible-Skinned Avocados
A local Oaxacan variety that is usually small and features a soft skin that you can actually eat.
4.3. Epazote: The Wild Herb
The flavor of pepper, mint, and something wild that you’ll typically find stewed into various dishes.
4.4. Chapulines (Grasshoppers): A Crunchy Snack
Chapulines: ideal on top of a tlayuda.
Think crunchy like popcorn shells and eaten voluminously like potato chips.
4.5. Quesillo (Oaxacan cheese): Stringy and Brined
Like string cheese or mozzarella, but with a bit more of a salt tang.
4.6. Peppers: A World of Flavors
Dried chili peppers at Oaxaca’s Juarez Market.
Ancho, poblano, pasilla, chilaca, chile negro – the possibilities are endless.
4.7. Chocolate: A Staple Ingredient
Cocoa beans before they become chocolate at Chocolate Mayordomo
A crucial defining ingredient of Oaxacan cuisine, used in drinks and moles.
4.8. Chicharrón: Fried Pork Skin
Fried pork skin, often added to a tlayuda for crunch and flavor.
4.9. Hoja Santa: The Sacred Leaf
Hoja Santa (“sacred leaf”) is a popular Mexican herb used to flavor various chocolate drinks, soups, stews and Oaxacan mole verde.
4.10. Squash Blossoms (Flor de Calabazas)
Try finding squash blossoms at one of the local Oaxaca markets.
5. Oaxacan Drinks: Quench Your Thirst with Unique Flavors
5.1. Tejate: An Indigenous Elixir
Tejate vendor at the Etla Market.
An indigenous drink made of corn, cacao, and other bits like the seeds of the mamey and flor de cacao.
5.2. Hot Chocolate: A Local Favorite
Try it local style with water (de agua).
5.3. Coffee: A Morning Essential
Best coffee in Oaxaca? We say Cafe Nuevo Mundo.
5.4. Beer: A Refreshing Choice
Our favorite refreshing go-to beer: Victoria.
5.5. Mezcal: A Smoky Spirit
Mezcal tasting at a mezcalaria just outside of Oaxaca.
A smoky, double-distilled roasted mash made from the heart of the maguey plant.
5.6. Margaritas: A Classic Cocktail
The margaritas at La Biznaga were our favorite.
6. Oaxaca Fruits and Sweets: A Sweet Ending
6.1. Tuna Ice Cream: A Prickly Pear Delight
Made from the colorful fruit tip of the prickly pear cactus.
6.2. Oaxaca Fruit and Juice: A Refreshing Balance
Check out the fruit stands at the southeast corner of 20 Noviembre market. To go further still, don’t forget to poke around, be curious and check out the following fruit in whole form or in juice: guanabana, zapote, chico zapote, chamoy and maracuya (passion fruit).
7. Oaxaca Day Tours and Other Things to Do
Here are a few tours and experiences we recommend:
7.1. Oaxaca City Tours
7.2. Day Trips Near Oaxaca City
8. Where to Stay: Oaxaca Hotels and Apartments
If you’re going for a shorter stay we’d recommend staying near the markets or historic center.
You can also book your secure Oaxaca airport transfer in advance.
9. Gluten Free Eating in Oaxaca
To help you navigate Oaxacan food so that you can eat local, but also gluten free and with confidence, check out this Latin American Spanish gluten-free restaurant card. The restaurant card explains in detail, using local food names and language, your needs as a strictly gluten free eater, including common problems regarding cross contamination, so that you get the meal you want and need. (Bonus: You can use it when you travel in any Spanish speaking Latin American country, from Mexico to Chile.)
10. FAQs about Oaxacan Food
- What Is Oaxaca Food known for?
Oaxaca food is celebrated for its seven types of mole, unique ingredients like chapulines, and traditional dishes such as tlayudas and tamales oaxaqueños. - What are the seven moles of Oaxaca?
The seven moles are mole negro, mole colorado, mole coloradito, mole verde, mole amarillo, mole chichilo, and mole manchamantel. - What is quesillo?
Quesillo is a stringy, brined cheese similar to mozzarella, commonly used in Oaxacan dishes. - What are chapulines?
Chapulines are toasted grasshoppers, often seasoned and eaten as a snack. - What is a tlayuda?
A tlayuda is a large, semi-dried tortilla topped with beans, cheese, meat, and other ingredients, often referred to as “Oaxacan pizza”. - What are tamales oaxaqueños?
Tamales oaxaqueños are tamales wrapped in banana leaves instead of corn husks, giving them a unique flavor and texture. - What is huitlacoche?
Huitlacoche is a corn fungus, considered a delicacy in Mexico, with an earthy, mushroomy flavor. - What is tejate?
Tejate is a traditional Oaxacan drink made from corn, cacao, and other ingredients. - What is the best time to visit Oaxaca for food?
Oaxaca is a year-round destination, but the Day of the Dead (Día de los Muertos) in late October/early November offers a unique culinary experience. - Where can I find authentic Oaxacan food?
Authentic Oaxacan food can be found in local markets, street food stalls, and traditional restaurants throughout the city of Oaxaca.
Oaxaca is a culinary paradise waiting to be explored.
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We hope this guide inspires you to embark on your own Oaxacan food adventure.
Explore, eat heartily, and eat well!
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