Aleppo, once hailed as the culinary capital of the Middle East, boasts a gastronomic legacy as rich and layered as its ancient history. Even before the devastating conflict, Aleppo was a beacon for those seeking authentic and refined Middle Eastern flavors, distinct from the better-known Damascene cuisine. My own introduction to this culinary treasure trove began in a Belle Epoque villa in the heart of Aleppo, with a plate of the most delicate kibbeh balls I had ever encountered. It was a lunch hosted by Lena Toutounji, renowned in the city for her exquisite Aleppine dishes, and that first course was a tantalizing glimpse into the sophisticated world of Aleppo Food.
These weren’t just any kibbeh; these were kibbeh qubab, tiny, dome-shaped spheres, hinting at the artistry and precision that define Aleppo food. Their reddish hue was the first clue to a unique ingredient: lamb tail-fat seasoned with the famed Aleppo pepper. Lena’s insightful warning to eat them in one bite was quickly understood as the warm, melting fat, infused with the subtle heat of Aleppo pepper, burst onto my palate, a luxurious and unforgettable sensation. This initial encounter sparked a deeper exploration into Aleppo’s culinary depths, revealing a cuisine shaped by centuries of history, diverse cultural influences, and a dedication to culinary excellence.
Aleppo’s culinary identity is distinct, setting it apart from Damascus and other regional cuisines. Its strategic location and history as a crossroads of civilizations have woven a tapestry of flavors. Successive waves of occupiers and refugee communities, notably Armenians fleeing neighboring Turkey in the early 20th century, have all contributed to its unique gastronomic profile. This fusion is evident in the subtle yet complex interplay of sweet and savory, a hallmark of Aleppo food. Dishes often feature meat paired with fruits or fruit juices, creating harmonious blends that tantalize the taste buds. Kibbeh sfarjaliyeh, where kibbeh balls are simmered with quince in fresh pomegranate juice, is a prime example of this delightful balance. Another quintessential Aleppo dish, kabab karaz, showcases tiny meatballs gently stewed in a vibrant sauce of sour cherries. These dishes exemplify the innovative and refined nature of Aleppo’s culinary heritage.
While street food offers a vibrant snapshot of any city’s food culture, in Aleppo, the true heart of its cuisine resided in homes. Home cooks were the culinary stars, revered far more than restaurant chefs. Memorable meals in private residences revealed the depth and authenticity of Aleppo food traditions. One enduring memory of street food in Aleppo, however, remains vivid: an old vendor in the Souk al-Attarine, a market tragically lost to conflict, who dedicated his days to crafting herb omelet sandwiches. His mesmerizing speed and practiced routine in preparing the omelets were captivating, although the less-than-hygienic conditions of his stall kept me from personally sampling his creation. Despite the allure of street food, it was within the homes of Aleppines that the true essence of their culinary culture unfolded.
Fortunately, after that initial lunch, Lena and her brother, Pierre Antaki, alongside George Husni, founders of the Académie de la Gastronomie Syrienne, generously welcomed me into their culinary world. Through them, and other gracious Aleppine families, I gained invaluable insights into the secrets of Aleppo food. Dinners at the Club d’Alep, a private club celebrated for its fine Aleppine cuisine, further enriched my understanding. Among these culinary guides, Joumana Kayali stands out. A flamboyant fashion designer, Joumana, unlike the more traditional Lena, showcased a different facet of Aleppo’s culinary landscape. While equally devoted to tradition, Joumana, being Muslim, presented a distinct culinary perspective compared to Lena’s Christian heritage, highlighting the fascinating nuances within Aleppo food across different religious communities.
One dish Joumana introduced me to was kibbeh summaqiyeh. This variation derives its name from the sumac sauce in which the kibbeh balls are gently simmered. The sauce, a vibrant blend of tomatoes and sumac water, achieves a perfect harmony of tartness, sweetness, and spice. Joumana’s cooking was notably spicier than Lena’s, and her seven-spice lamb and desert truffle stew, served with cardamom and pistachio rice, remains a dish I wish I had secured the recipe for. Desert truffles, though less intense in flavor than their European counterparts, were highly prized in Aleppo for their short season and desert origins, and Joumana’s masterful use of them was unforgettable.
Another notable discovery in Aleppo food came from Maria Gaspard Samra, a home cook who transitioned to chef at the Mansouria Hotel. Maria, who contributed recipes to Florence Ollivry’s “Les Secrets d’Alep,” introduced me to beetroot mutabbal. Similar to baba ghannouge but crafted with beetroot instead of eggplant, this vibrant dip exemplified the innovative twists within traditional Aleppo cuisine.
A recipe for Anissa’s Beetroot Dip (Mutabbal Shamandar) can be found here.
Sweet endings in Aleppo food culture are reserved for celebrations or special guests. When served at home, sweets are often sourced from specialist sweet-makers, artisans who closely guard their recipes. Attempts to glean secrets from Damascus’ renowned Semiramis/Rose de Damas proved unsuccessful. However, Majed Krayem and Bassam Mawaldi of Pistache d’Alep, pre-uprising Aleppo sweet-makers now based in Gaziantep, Turkey, offered a generous glimpse into their craft. Their kitchen was a treasure trove of beloved sweets, from the delicate “hair” pastry for k’nafeh and borma to ghazl el-banat, the Arabic equivalent of candy floss, amusingly linked to a traditional hair removal caramel called sukkar banat. Witnessing the creation of these sweets firsthand was a nostalgic journey back to childhood flavors.
The current reality in Aleppo casts a long shadow over its once-vibrant culinary scene. While Lena remains in Aleppo, the future of its rich food traditions is uncertain. The hope remains that even amidst devastation and displacement, the essence of Aleppo food, its unique flavors, and culinary artistry will endure, carried forward by its people and cherished by those who have experienced its magic. The legacy of Aleppo as a culinary capital, built on centuries of tradition and innovation, deserves to be remembered and celebrated, ensuring that its gastronomic heritage is not lost to the tragic events that have befallen this historic city.
