Growing up in an Iranian household was a vibrant experience, especially when it came to food. While life had its normal rhythms, the cuisine was anything but ordinary. Our garage often transformed into a treasure trove of culinary delights, overflowing with crates of pomegranates, sacks brimming with fresh herbs like parsley, dill, and tarragon, alongside an assortment of unique nuts. It felt as though feasts could materialize at any moment, grand and abundant, reminiscent of a royal command for a culinary spectacle. While my English mother introduced me to the comforting simplicity of mince and potatoes, my father, a true advocate for his culture, was always present, subtly guiding my young palate towards the exquisite flavors of Persia – from sweet Persian cucumbers to cardamom-infused toffee brittle, and the enigmatic gaz. This rosewater nougat, studded with pistachios, held a “secret ingredient” that sparked childhood curiosity, later revealed to be a naturally derived sweet substance from western Iran.
Even the simplest request, like a plate of plain rice, was met with an artistic touch. Saffron-infused grains, adorned with a generous sprinkle of barberries, were presented on decorative trays, transforming a staple into a culinary artwork. It seemed every ingredient in our kitchen was destined for a bubbling khoresh (stew) or a fragrant soup, each dish a unique symphony of flavors. It was a delightful surprise then, to discover that this grand, seemingly complex Persian cuisine is inherently adaptable, requiring only minor adjustments to become an ideal dietary choice for those navigating gluten and dairy sensitivities.
Sally Butcher, a figure synonymous with British-Iranian gastronomy, through her marriage and passion, has become a celebrated voice in the food scene. Author of several acclaimed Persian cookbooks and owner of Persepolis, a beloved, Tardis-like delicatessen nestled in London’s Peckham, she offers a portal into Persian culinary treasures. Persepolis is a haven where rose petals and dolmeh share space with gleaming electric samovars. Interestingly, Sally herself discovered a gluten and dairy intolerance. Intrigued by the natural alignment of Persian cuisine with these dietary needs, I sought her insights into this culinary world and its potential as a haven for sensitive stomachs.
MUNCHIES: Sally, your journey into Persian cooking is fascinating. Could you share how it began and how long Persepolis has been a culinary landmark?
Sally Butcher: My immersion in Persian cooking began through years of working alongside Iranians in catering, but it truly blossomed when I married into an Iranian family. Persepolis, our shop, has been a reality for 13 years, but our journey of bringing the finest Persian ingredients to the UK spans nearly two decades.
Persepolis has become a cherished institution for Iranians in London. What do you think makes it such a draw?
Sally Butcher: I believe Iranians are drawn to us because we approach Persian culture with genuine respect and warmth. Our pricing is fair, and perhaps the allure of a slightly eccentric, Farsi-speaking English woman behind the counter adds to the unique charm.
You’ve navigated food intolerances personally. When did you discover your wheat and dairy sensitivities, and how did you adapt your Persian cooking approach?
Sally Butcher: My food intolerances emerged a few years ago, following a bout of food poisoning. Fortunately, as a food writer with a keen interest in nutrition, I was able to pinpoint the issues relatively quickly. Many others face years of uncertainty. I believe digestive issues today are often linked to dietary imbalances and food intolerances. It struck me immediately that traditional Persian cuisine, being primarily rice-based, was perfectly suited to my new dietary needs.
Is this inherent lack of wheat and dairy in Persian cooking a cultural preference or a historical accident?
Sally Butcher: It’s more nuanced than a simple preference. Historically, wheat was actually central to the Iranian diet, originating in regions of Iran and Iraq. There are still areas in Iran where bread consumption rivals rice. Ancient wheat varieties like emmer and einkorn, which evolved in that region, might even hold the key for those with intolerances, rather than full-blown celiac disease or allergies. I can tolerate both of these grains myself. However, when rice arrived from the East, it quickly ascended to become the favored grain of the affluent, and it remains a cornerstone of Persian cuisine. Furthermore, while dairy products like cheese and yogurt are enjoyed, they are rarely used in cooking itself. This dietary structure naturally accommodates those with wheat or dairy sensitivities.
For someone seeking a wheat and dairy-free Persian lunch, what would you recommend?
Sally Butcher: Kookoo is an excellent choice. It’s akin to a frittata or quiche, cleverly using chickpea flour instead of wheat. Alternatively, āsh, a hearty, bean-rich, and vegan herb soup, is both satisfying and naturally free of wheat and dairy.
Kookoo, a flavorful and healthy Iranian frittata, naturally gluten and dairy-free.
And for a more substantial, wheat and dairy-free Persian dinner?
Sally Butcher: A wide array of khoresht, or Persian stews, served with rice, are ideal. Ghormeh sabzi, often considered the unofficial national dish, is a rich and deeply flavorful casserole of lamb, herbs, dried limes, and kidney beans – a fantastic and naturally gluten and dairy-free option.
Desserts can be tricky with dietary restrictions. But I’ve heard intriguing things about Persian candy floss, pashmak?
Sally Butcher: While commercially produced pashmak in Iran can sometimes contain wheat flour, sholeh zard is a wonderful alternative. It’s a saffron-infused rice pudding, traditionally made with water instead of milk, making it dairy-free. It’s incredibly simple to prepare and utterly delicious.
Pashmak, Persian candy floss, a delightful sweet treat popular in Iranian street food markets.
Is it solely Persian cuisine that lends itself to your wheat and dairy-free culinary explorations, or can this approach be extended to other Middle Eastern cuisines?
Sally Butcher: I’m quite adventurous in my cooking and don’t let intolerances limit my creativity. The broader Middle Eastern kitchen is a treasure trove of inspiration for those with food sensitivities. Firstly, the region boasts a variety of alternative flours that work beautifully for bread making, especially flatbreads which are more forgiving than leavened loaves. Secondly, the meze style of dining, with its array of small dishes, naturally includes many options that are inherently wheat and dairy-free.
Fantastic. I’ll be sure to encourage those seeking gluten-free and dairy-free options to explore the Middle East, starting with Iranian Food. Thank you, Sally!
