Tucson, Arizona, a city basking in the Southwestern sun and embraced by majestic mountain ranges, boasts a rich tapestry of culture, deeply interwoven with its Mexican-American heritage. For those seeking an authentic and unforgettable Mexican food experience, Tucson emerges as a compelling contender for the best city in the United States. Positioned amidst sprawling cattle ranches and the captivating Sonoran Desert, Tucson is not just geographically close to Mexico, but also intrinsically linked to the culinary traditions of Sonora, its neighboring state just south of the border. This profound connection has cultivated a vibrant and diverse Mexican food scene, earning Tucson the prestigious title of the first UNESCO City of Gastronomy in the U.S., a testament to its 4,000-year-old native crops and, most notably, its exceptional Mexican cuisine.
Having spent formative years in this sun-drenched university town, I, like many, perhaps initially took for granted the culinary treasures that Tucson held. The stunning desert landscapes, the historic adobe architecture of Barrio Viejo, and even the distinctive aroma of creosote after desert rains were readily appreciated. However, the true depth and quality of Tucson’s Mexican food scene only truly resonated after venturing away, gaining a broader perspective on gastronomy across different regions. It wasn’t until Tucson’s gastronomic recognition in 2015 that the full spectrum of its culinary offerings, including local specialties like coyotas and countless others, truly came into focus. This realization sparked a return to explore and celebrate what makes Tucson a genuine haven for Mexican food lovers. Join us as we delve into the heart of Tucson’s Mexican culinary landscape, exploring the flavors, traditions, and iconic dishes that solidify its reputation as a Mexican food paradise.
The Sonoran Tortilla: A Regional Staple
The influence of Sonora is palpable in Tucson’s cuisine, and nowhere is this more evident than in the ubiquitous flour tortilla. For Tucsonans, especially the nearly 40% who identify with Mexican heritage, the flour tortilla is more than just food; it’s a cultural touchstone, a daily staple enjoyed in countless ways. From simple tortillas smothered in melting cheese to hearty wraps filled with rice and beans, the best are savored fresh, straight from a steaming bakery bag.
To truly understand and appreciate the artistry of the Sonoran tortilla, a visit to Anita St Market is essential. This family-run gem, a place easily missed were it not for its intoxicating aroma, is home to some of the most impressive tortillas in Tucson. These aren’t your average store-bought tortillas; these are sobaqueras, magnificent rounds of flour, water, vegetable shortening, and salt, stretched by hand to an astonishing 14 inches in diameter – the size of a large pizza, as proudly displayed on a diagram behind the counter. Anthropologist Maribel Alvarez, director of the National Folklife Network and associate dean at the University of Arizona, aptly describes the flour tortilla as “the marker of Sonoran identity.” She further explains the historical significance, noting, “The Spanish, from the first arrival, brought wheat with them for one simple reason: the Eucharist. You couldn’t do mission work without bringing wheat.” This introduction of wheat laid the foundation for the flour tortilla to become a cornerstone of the region’s culinary and cultural identity.
Watching the artisans at Anita St Market craft these epic tortillas is a mesmerizing experience. Each sobaquera is stretched the full length of an arm, then expertly cooked on a blazing griddle for just a couple of minutes. The result is a tortilla that is airy, chewy, remarkably stretchy, and subtly blistered – a testament to simple ingredients transformed by skillful hands. While these tortillas are perfect as vessels for fillings, experiencing them plain and hot off the griddle is a revelation. Each soft, steamy bite offers a taste of Sonoran culinary heritage, a near-religious experience in its own right, albeit perhaps not quite the spiritual experience the conquistadors originally envisioned. The fact that Sonora still produces the majority of Mexico’s wheat, thanks to its favorable climate, further underscores the deep connection between the region and this fundamental food.
Iconic Tucson Mexican Restaurants
Beyond the foundational tortilla, Tucson’s Mexican food scene thrives on a vibrant landscape of restaurants, each contributing its unique flavor and story to the city’s culinary narrative. Among these, El Charro Cafe and Boca Tacos y Tequila stand out as iconic destinations, representing both tradition and innovation within Tucson’s Mexican food heritage.
El Charro Cafe: A Century of Tradition
El Charro Cafe holds a distinguished place in Tucson’s culinary history as the oldest Mexican restaurant in the United States continuously operated by the same family. Founded in 1922 by Monica Flin, El Charro is more than just a restaurant; it’s a local landmark, deeply woven into the fabric of Tucson’s community. Housed in Monica’s former 19th-century home in Downtown Tucson, one of four locations across the city, El Charro has been the backdrop for countless Tucsonan celebrations and gatherings.
The restaurant’s ambiance evokes a sense of history and tradition, particularly on its palm-lined patio, a favorite spot for diners. While El Charro is renowned for its signature carne seca, Sonoran-style marinated Angus beef sun-dried in a custom-built cage, a dish reflecting the region’s cattle ranching heritage, it’s also a gateway to discovering other Sonoran specialties. The region is indeed cattle country, with Sonora being a top cattle-raising state in Mexico, influencing even the local style, as Maribel Alvarez describes: “big buckles, creased jeans, beautiful leather boots, sombreros,” a vaquero style descended from the 19th-century charro.
For a truly immersive Sonoran culinary experience at El Charro, the caldo de queso is a must-try. This fiery, milky broth, a comforting blend of cheese, potatoes, chilies, tomatoes, and onions, is a Sonoran classic that has garnered national acclaim. Food critic Gustavo Arellano of the Los Angeles Times famously declared Tucson’s caldo de queso his “favorite soup of all time.” One spoonful of this creamy, cheesy soup is enough to understand why – it’s an irresistible and deeply satisfying dish.
El Charro’s legacy continues to evolve, most recently through a collaboration with Barrio Bread, another Tucson culinary icon known for its heritage grain artisan bakery. This partnership led to Barrio Charro restaurant, located near the Rillito River, offering a modern take on Sonoran cuisine. Here, dishes like tlayuda tostadas showcase the innovative spirit while honoring traditional flavors. During a visit to Barrio Charro, one might even find themselves amidst a Flores family celebration, experiencing the warmth and hospitality that has defined El Charro for generations. Carlotta Flores, the matriarch of El Charro, embodies this spirit, carrying forward her aunt Monica’s legacy while embracing new culinary ventures. As El Charro approaches its centennial, it continues to innovate while cherishing its rich history, a true testament to Tucson’s enduring Mexican food traditions.
Boca Tacos y Tequila: Innovation and Global Flavors
In contrast to El Charro’s century-old legacy, Boca Tacos y Tequila, helmed by Chef Maria Mazon, represents the innovative and globally-inspired side of Tucson’s Mexican food scene. Chef Mazon, a Tucson native raised in Sonora, gained national recognition as a finalist on Top Chef: Portland, even winning the show’s demanding Restaurant Wars challenge. Her success has further propelled Boca Tacos into the spotlight, leading to the expansion of her Fourth Avenue restaurant to include Sona Tortilleria y Bodega, a space dedicated to Mexican kitchen supplies and artisanal tortillas.
While deeply rooted in Sonoran traditions, Chef Mazon is celebrated for her willingness to push boundaries and incorporate global flavors into her Mexican cuisine. Her “macho taco,” a popular dish featuring carne asada and Anaheim chili, pays homage to her hometown of Navojoa, Sonora. However, it’s her adventurous culinary spirit that truly sets her apart. At Boca Tacos, diners can experience tacos filled with grilled cauliflower in madras curry, orange zest, and coriander oil, or savor mushroom-based chorizo, showcasing a fusion of Mexican and international influences. Even the signature chips and salsa flights are a testament to her innovative approach, featuring salsas ranging from classic Mexican chipotle to Asian peanut sauce.
Chef Mazon describes her culinary philosophy as offering “a true Mexican experience – and that’s beautiful,” while also embracing the freedom to create salsas “influenced by Indian cuisine, by Japanese cuisine or by Italian cuisine.” This willingness to experiment and blend culinary traditions results in a dining experience that is both authentically Mexican and excitingly innovative, solidifying Tucson’s position as a dynamic and evolving Mexican food destination.
Tucson’s Sweet Side: Coyotas and More
While savory dishes often take center stage, Tucson’s Mexican food scene also boasts a delightful array of desserts. Traditional Mexican sweets like tres leches cakes, orejas, and conchas are readily available, but for a truly Sonoran sweet treat, coyotas are a must-try. These flaky, golden-brown pastries, filled with various sweet delights, are a specialty of Hermosillo, Sonora, and while not as common in Tucson, they are a cherished local delicacy.
Dolce Pastello, a charming sweet shop in Mercado San Agustin, is a prime destination for coyotas in Tucson. Owner Aide Almazan offers a variety of flavors, including pineapple and pumpkin, but the most traditional and sought-after are those filled with whole cane sugar. Finding these can be a delightful quest, as they are often brought in artisanally from Sonora. As Maribel Alvarez notes, “They’re still very much an artisanal industry in Sonora – and if you live in Tucson, you’re likely talking about someone bringing them to you from Hermosillo.”
The experience of finally biting into a cane sugar coyota is well worth the pursuit. The filling, resembling crystallized honey, is surprisingly pliant and ethereally delicious, offering a unique sweetness and texture that perfectly complements the flaky pastry. Discovering coyotas in Tucson is a reminder that the city’s Mexican food treasures extend beyond the savory, encompassing a rich tapestry of sweet traditions as well.
5 Must-Try Mexican Foods in Tucson
To fully experience Tucson’s Mexican food scene, be sure to sample these five iconic dishes:
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Sonoran Hot Dog: El Guero Canelo is the undisputed king of Sonoran hot dogs. Their rendition – a bacon-wrapped sausage nestled in a soft bolillo bun and loaded with beans, onions, jalapeño sauce, mustard, and mayo – is an award-winning masterpiece, recognized by the James Beard Foundation. This iconic snack is a Tucson must-eat.
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Horchata: This refreshing rice-based drink is a staple at Mexican restaurants throughout Tucson. For a truly exceptional horchata, visit Seis Kitchen. They meticulously prepare their horchata from scratch, steeping rice in cinnamon for 24 hours before blending, creating a beverage well worth any wait.
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Carne Asada: Thinly sliced and grilled beef, ideally over mesquite flames, carne asada is the heart of Sonoran grilling. For an authentic carne asada taco, head to Tacos Apson, a local favorite, and order the taco de carne asada al carbon.
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Tamales: Comfort food at its finest, tamales are steamed corn dough pockets filled with savory or sweet fillings, each family boasting their own best recipe. Tanias ‘33’ Mexican Food stands out for its diverse and flavorful tamale selection, including unique options like vegan hibiscus tamales.
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Raspados: Often called Mexican snow cones, raspados are far more than just shaved ice and syrup. Oasis Fruit Cones elevates this dessert to an art form, offering a wide array of toppings, including condensed milk, chili powder, and tamarind sticks, for a truly customized and refreshing treat.
Recipe: El Charro’s Caldo de Queso
Bring the flavors of Tucson home with this comforting and flavorful caldo de queso recipe from El Charro Cafe.
Serves: 6
Prep time: 45 mins
Ingredients
- 4 medium potatoes, peeled and cubed
- 700ml beef or vegetable stock
- 8 fresh Anaheim chilies, or other mild chilies, roasted and finely chopped
- 1 medium white onion, sliced
- 300ml milk or evaporated milk
- 2 large tomatoes, coarsely chopped
- 115g cubed or grated longhorn cheese, crumbled Mexican cheese, or grated cheddar
Method
- In a large (7.5-liter) pan, combine potatoes and 1.2 liters of cold water. Bring to a boil over high heat, then reduce to a simmer and cook until potatoes are soft, about 10 minutes.
- Remove potatoes from the pan using a slotted spoon and set aside. Add stock to the potato water and bring to a boil.
- Stir in chilies (reserving some for extra heat if desired), onion, milk, and 1 tsp salt (or to taste). Simmer for 10 minutes.
- Taste and adjust seasoning, adding more chili for extra spice if you like.
- Add cooked potatoes and tomatoes. Simmer for another 10 minutes. To serve, divide cheese among six warm bowls and ladle soup over the cheese.
ESSENTIALS
Getting there
British Airways offers flights from Heathrow to Phoenix, Arizona, where you can rent a car for the 90-minute drive to Tucson or take a 45-minute connecting flight. Alternatively, carriers like American Airlines and Virgin Atlantic provide one-stop services from the UK directly to Tucson.
Where to stay
- The Downtown Clifton hotel: Features an in-house lounge serving modern Sonoran cuisine. Doubles start from $139 (£101). The Downtown Clifton hotel
- JW Marriott Tucson Starr Pass Resort & Spa: Offers access to Tucson Mountain Park and includes Mexican dishes on the menu. Doubles start from $294 (£214). JW Marriott
How to do it
Expedia offers week-long Tucson packages starting from £962 per person in March 2022, including room-only accommodation at Best Western Royal, Sun Inn & Suites, and indirect flights with Delta/Virgin Atlantic. Expedia
More info
For more information about exploring Tucson, visit the official tourism website: visittucson.org
Published in Issue 14 (winter 2021) of National Geographic Traveller Food (UK)
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